The most common ways to add stitches mid-row

Increasing means adding new stitches to your work while you knit. The method you choose affects how your finished fabric looks and how visible the new stitch is. Most knitters use one of three techniques: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, yarn over, or pick up a stitch from the row below. Each creates a different texture and sits at a different angle in the fabric.

The stitch you choose matters most when you are shaping garments — a sweater sleeve that widens gradually, a cardigan front that angles outward, or a hat that decreases toward the crown. Increases also appear in lace patterns and textured stitches where they are meant to be visible and decorative.

Key Takeaways

  • Knit front and back (KFB) is the easiest increase for beginners and creates a small bump on the right side of the fabric.
  • Yarn over (YO) leaves a deliberate hole and is standard in lace patterns and decorative shaping.
  • Make one (M1) lifts a strand between stitches and is nearly invisible, making it the best choice for seamless shaping.
  • The position of your increases — whether you place them at the edge, one stitch in from the edge, or scattered across the row — changes how the shaping looks.
  • Practicing increases on a swatch before you start a project prevents mistakes in your actual garment.

Knit front and back (KFB) — the easiest method

Knit front and back means you knit into the same stitch twice before dropping it off the needle. Insert your right needle through the stitch from front to back, knit it, then insert the needle through the same stitch from back to front and knit again. You now have two stitches where there was one.

This method is straightforward and works well for beginners because the motion is familiar — you are just knitting twice. The drawback is that it leaves a visible bump or bar on the right side of your fabric. If you are making a sweater where the increase will show, you may want a less visible method. For baby items, blankets, or any project where the texture does not matter, KFB is fast and reliable.

Yarn over (YO) — creates a deliberate hole

A yarn over is an increase that leaves a small hole in your fabric. It is done by bringing your yarn to the front of your work (if it is not already there) and then knitting the next stitch. The loop you created becomes a new stitch, and the hole sits directly below it.

Yarn overs are standard in lace knitting because the holes are part of the pattern design. They are also used in decorative increases on shawls and wraps. If you are working a pattern that calls for yarn overs, follow the pattern instructions exactly — the placement and direction matter for how the lace looks. A yarn over in the wrong direction will twist the hole and throw off the pattern.

Make one (M1) — nearly invisible shaping

Make one is an increase that picks up the strand of yarn that sits between two stitches and knits it as a new stitch. To do this, insert your left needle under the strand from front to back, then knit through the back loop. This twists the new stitch so it sits flat and does not leave a hole or bump.

Make one is the most invisible increase and is used when you want shaping to be subtle — on fitted sweaters, tailored cardigans, or anywhere the increase should not draw attention. It takes a little practice to find the strand and lift it cleanly, but once you have done it a few times, it becomes automatic. There are left-leaning and right-leaning versions (M1L and M1R) that angle the new stitch in different directions, which matters when you are increasing on both sides of a garment and want the shaping to look balanced.

Where to place your increases on the row

Increases at the very edge of your work create a ragged or uneven selvage. Most patterns place increases one or two stitches in from the edge so the new stitches sit inside the fabric and the edge stays clean. This is especially important if you plan to seam the pieces together or pick up stitches along the edge later.

For symmetrical shaping — like a sweater that widens evenly on both sides — place matching increases on the left and right sides of the piece, the same number of stitches in from each edge. If your pattern says "increase 1 stitch each side every 4 rows," that means you increase once on the left side and once on the right side, spaced 4 rows apart. The increases should mirror each other so the garment looks balanced when you wear it.

Practicing increases before you start a project

The best way to learn which increase method feels right is to knit a practice swatch. Cast on 20 stitches in the yarn and needles you plan to use for your project, then knit 4 rows in stockinette stitch. On the next row, try KFB in the first stitch, yarn over in the third stitch, and M1 in the fifth stitch. Knit to the end of the row, then knit 4 more rows and bind off.

Look at the three increases side by side. Notice where the bump or hole sits, how visible each method is, and which one feels most natural in your hands. If you are making a sweater and the pattern calls for a specific increase, practice that method on your swatch so you are comfortable with it before you start the actual garment. Mistakes caught on a swatch are straightforward to fix; mistakes in a sweater sleeve are not.

Increasing in different stitch patterns

Increases work differently depending on what stitch pattern you are working in. In garter stitch (knit every row), all three methods are visible and work equally well. In ribbing, increases should sit inside the rib pattern so they do not break the vertical lines — usually this means increasing on a knit stitch if you are working a knit-purl pattern.

In lace patterns, yarn overs are almost always the increase method because they create the holes that are part of the design. In cable patterns, increases usually sit between cables so they do not interrupt the twisted stitches. Read your pattern carefully to see which increase it calls for, because the pattern designer chose that method to make the shaping look right in that particular stitch pattern.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1L and M1R?

M1L (make one left) leans the new stitch to the left, and M1R (make one right) leans it to the right. When you increase on both sides of a piece, using M1L on the left side and M1R on the right side makes the shaping look symmetrical. If you use the same direction on both sides, one side will look twisted.

Can I use KFB in a lace pattern?

Technically yes, but it will look wrong. Lace patterns are designed with yarn overs as the increases so the holes line up with the pattern. Using KFB will create a bump where a hole should be and throw off the whole design. Always use the increase method your pattern specifies.

What happens if I increase in the wrong stitch?

If you increase one stitch too far to the left or right, the shaping will look off-center. The garment will still fit, but it will not look as polished. For this reason, many knitters mark their increase stitches with stitch markers before they start the row, so they know exactly where to increase.

Do I count the new stitch when I increase?

Yes. When you increase, you add one stitch to your total count. If you had 60 stitches and you increased 2 stitches (one on each side), you now have 62 stitches. Keep track of your stitch count as you go so you know whether you have increased the right number of times.