The three ways to add stitches mid-row or mid-project
You increase stitches in knitting by working into the same stitch more than once, by creating new stitches from the yarn between existing stitches, or by casting on new stitches at the edge. The method you choose depends on where you need the increase, whether you want it to show as a visible line, and how many stitches you need to add at once.
Most patterns tell you which increase to use. If yours does not, the most common choice for shaping garments is the knit front and back (KFB), which is fast and works anywhere in a row. For a less visible increase, yarn over creates a decorative hole and is standard in lace patterns. For adding many stitches at once — like when you reach the underarm of a sweater — casting on at the edge is the practical choice.
Key Takeaways
- Knit front and back (KFB) is the fastest increase and works in the middle of a row by knitting into the front loop, then the back loop of the same stitch.
- Yarn over creates a decorative hole and is the standard increase for lace patterns and when you want the increase to be visible.
- Make one (M1) increases are less visible than KFB because they pick up yarn from between stitches rather than splitting an existing stitch.
- Casting on new stitches at the edge is the only practical method when you need to add many stitches at once, such as for sleeve caps or body width.
Knit front and back (KFB): the fastest mid-row increase
Knit front and back means you work two stitches from one stitch, doubling your stitch count in that spot. Insert your needle into the front loop of the stitch as if to knit normally, pull the yarn through, but do not drop the stitch from the left needle. Instead, insert your needle into the back loop of the same stitch and knit again, then drop it.
This method leaves a small bump or bar at the base of the new stitch, which is visible but not objectionable in most fabrics. It works anywhere in a row — at the edge, in the middle, or in a pattern repeat. KFB is the default increase in many patterns because it is fast and requires no setup. The downside is that the bump can look uneven if your tension is loose, and it uses yarn from the existing stitch, which can make that stitch slightly tighter than its neighbors.
Yarn over (YO): the decorative increase for lace
A yarn over creates a new stitch by wrapping yarn around the needle without knitting into an existing stitch. The result is a small, intentional hole in the fabric. Yarn overs are standard in lace patterns because the holes are part of the design, but they also work for any project where you want the increase to be a visible feature rather than hidden.
How you work a yarn over depends on what stitches come before and after it. If you knit, then yarn over, then knit again, you straightforward bring the yarn to the front of the needle between the two knit stitches, then take it to the back to knit the next stitch — the yarn naturally wraps the needle once. If you purl, then yarn over, then purl, you take the yarn to the back between the two purl stitches, then bring it forward to purl the next stitch. The exact path changes based on your stitch sequence, but the principle is the same: the yarn wraps the needle once to create one new stitch.
Yarn overs are the easiest increase to work evenly because they do not depend on tension or splitting a stitch. They also add no bulk. The trade-off is that they always create a hole, so they are not suitable for projects where you want the increase to be invisible.
Make one (M1): the invisible increase
Make one picks up the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knits it as a new stitch. This method is less visible than KFB because it does not split an existing stitch, and it adds no bulk. It is the best choice when you want to increase without creating a visible line or bump.
To work a make one, insert your left needle under the horizontal strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch, from front to back. Then insert your right needle through that loop and knit it. You can knit through the front or back of the loop — knitting through the back twists the stitch slightly and makes it even less visible. Make one requires a moment of setup because you have to locate and lift the strand, but it becomes automatic with practice.
Make one works best at the edges of a piece or in a gradual shaping line because it is subtle. It is less common in the middle of a row or in a pattern repeat, where KFB or yarn over would be more obvious anyway.
Casting on at the edge: adding many stitches at once
When you need to add many stitches in one place — such as at the underarm of a sweater, at the top of a sleeve cap, or to widen a piece significantly — casting on new stitches at the edge is the only practical method. You finish a row, then cast on the required number of stitches using your preferred cast-on method, then continue knitting.
The most common cast-on for this purpose is the cable cast-on or long-tail cast-on because they create a finished edge that matches the rest of the fabric. Some patterns specify which cast-on to use. If yours does not, cable cast-on is a safe choice because it is sturdy and blends in. Avoid the straightforward loop cast-on for this purpose because it creates a loose, uneven edge.
When you cast on at the edge, you will see a seam line where the new stitches meet the existing fabric. This is normal and expected. If you want to minimize it, cast on one stitch at a time over several rows rather than all at once, but this is slow and usually not worth the effort unless the pattern specifically calls for it.
Choosing the right increase for your pattern
Most knitting patterns tell you which increase to use by writing it in the instructions — you will see "KFB", "M1", "YO", or "cast on" in the row-by-row directions. If your pattern does not specify, the choice depends on what you are making and where the increase sits.
For shaping a garment (bust, waist, sleeve cap), KFB or M1 are standard. KFB is faster; M1 is less visible. For lace or any pattern where you want the increase to show, use yarn over. For adding stitches at the edge in bulk, cast on. If you are still unsure, KFB is the safest default because it works everywhere and is the most forgiving of tension variation.
Common mistakes when increasing
The most common mistake is dropping the original stitch too early when working KFB. You must knit into the front loop, keep the stitch on the left needle, knit into the back loop, and only then drop it. If you drop it after the first knit, you have only created one stitch, not two.
Another mistake is working yarn overs inconsistently. If you are supposed to yarn over between a knit and a purl, the yarn path is different than between two knits. Trace the yarn path in your pattern or a tutorial video before you start, and you will avoid twisted or missing stitches. A third mistake is casting on too loosely at the edge. If your new stitches are much looser than the existing fabric, tighten your tension slightly or use a smaller needle for the cast-on row.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between KFB and M1?
KFB splits an existing stitch into two, leaving a small visible bump. M1 picks up yarn from between stitches, so it is less visible and adds no bulk. KFB is faster; M1 is neater. Use KFB when speed matters or the increase will be hidden by shaping. Use M1 when you want the increase to be invisible.
Can I use yarn over to increase outside of lace patterns?
Yes, but the hole will show. Yarn over is decorative, so it works well in any pattern where you want the increase to be a design feature. If you want an invisible increase in a non-lace pattern, use M1 or KFB instead.
What happens if I increase in the wrong place?
If you increased one stitch too early or too late, you can usually keep going and adjust the shaping on the next increase row. If you increased in the middle of a pattern repeat and it threw off the repeat, you may need to rip back and redo that section. Check your stitch count against the pattern every few rows to catch mistakes early.
Do I need to increase on both sides of a piece?
Most patterns that shape a garment (like a sweater) tell you to increase on both edges to keep the piece centered. If your pattern says "increase 1 stitch each side", work the increase on the right edge and the left edge in the same row. If it says "increase 1 stitch", work it only once per row, usually on one side.
Can I use different increase methods in the same project?
Yes, as long as you are consistent within a shaping section. If you use KFB for the first set of increases, use KFB for all increases in that section so they look the same. You can switch methods for a different section if the pattern calls for it or if you want a visual change.