The three main ways to join yarn mid-project
You join yarn in knitting when you run out of your current strand and need to attach a new one, or when you're switching colors. The three methods that work best for most knitters are the weave-in method (invisible, works on any stitch), the Russian join (fast, hides inside the yarn itself), and the knot-and-weave method (simplest to learn, requires finishing work later). Which one you choose depends on your yarn type, how much time you have, and whether you want to hide the join completely before you finish knitting or deal with it afterward.
The weave-in method is the most forgiving because it works with any yarn weight and any stitch pattern. The Russian join is fastest if your yarn is smooth enough to thread a needle through. The knot-and-weave is the backup plan when the other two aren't working—you tie a straightforward knot, keep knitting, and weave in the ends later when you bind off.
Key Takeaways
- The weave-in method threads your new yarn through 3 to 4 stitches on your needle, then continues knitting; it leaves no knot and works with any yarn.
- The Russian join pulls new yarn through the old yarn's center using a tapestry needle, creating a join that sits inside the yarn strand itself.
- The knot-and-weave ties a straightforward square knot between the two strands, then weaves both ends into finished fabric after you bind off.
- Always join yarn at the beginning of a row when possible, because joins are less visible at edges than in the middle of a row.
- Test your join by tugging gently on both strands before you continue knitting; a weak join will slip and unravel.
The weave-in method: best for most knitters
The weave-in method works by threading your new yarn through the stitches already on your needle, anchoring it without a knot. Drop your old yarn and pick up the new one. Thread the new yarn through a tapestry needle (a blunt needle with a large eye). Insert the needle from right to left through the first stitch on your left needle, then from left to right through the second stitch, then right to left through the third stitch. You're weaving the new yarn in and out of the stitches. Pull gently so the new yarn sits snug against the stitches but doesn't pucker them.
Now drop the tapestry needle and knit the next stitch with the new yarn using your regular needles. The woven section anchors the new yarn so it won't slip. This method works on any stitch pattern and any yarn weight. The join is invisible because it sits inside the stitches. The only drawback is that it takes a few extra seconds and requires a tapestry needle nearby.
The Russian join: fastest if your yarn cooperates
The Russian join hides the new yarn inside the old yarn strand itself, so there's nothing to weave in later. Thread your tapestry needle with the old yarn (the one you're about to drop). Insert the needle into the center of the new yarn strand, going lengthwise through the yarn for about an inch. Pull the needle out and tug gently—the new yarn should feel anchored. Now thread the tapestry needle with the new yarn and do the same thing in reverse: push the needle lengthwise through the center of the old yarn strand for about an inch, then pull out and tug.
This join works beautifully with smooth, tightly spun yarns like merino or cotton. It fails with fuzzy yarns, loosely spun yarns, or anything with a hairy texture, because the needle can't grip the fibers. Test the join by pulling both strands hard—if either one slides, the join is weak and will come apart as you knit. If it holds, you can knit the next stitch and move on. No weaving in required.
The knot-and-weave method: the reliable backup
If your yarn is too fuzzy or too loose for a Russian join, and you don't have a tapestry needle handy, tie a straightforward square knot. Hold the old yarn and new yarn together, cross the new yarn over the old, wrap around, and pull tight. Cross again in the opposite direction and pull tight again. You now have a square knot. Trim the tails to about 2 inches each. Knit the next stitch with the new yarn, and the knot will sit just outside your working stitches.
The knot will be visible in your finished fabric unless you hide it. After you bind off, thread a tapestry needle with one of the tails and weave it through the back of the stitches for about an inch, then trim the excess. Do the same with the other tail. The weaving anchors the tails so they won't unravel, and the knot itself sits inside the fabric where it's hard to see. This method is slower overall because you finish the work after knitting, but it's the most reliable when you're working with difficult yarns or in a hurry.
Where to join yarn to make it less noticeable
The location of your join matters as much as the method. Joins are least visible at the edges of your work, especially at the beginning or end of a row. If you're knitting a sweater body, plan to join at a side seam where the edge will be sewn together anyway. If you're knitting a scarf or blanket, join at the edge rather than in the middle of a row.
If you must join in the middle of a row, do it at a point where the stitch pattern will help hide it—for example, in the middle of a cable twist or in a textured stitch rather than in stockinette stitch, where every stitch is visible. Avoid joining at the very edge of a selvage stitch if you can, because the join can catch and pull as you work the next row.
Testing your join before you continue knitting
Before you knit the next stitch, test the join by pulling gently on both the old and new yarn strands. A find join should not slip or separate. If it does, the join is weak and will unravel as you knit. Stop and redo it using a different method or technique.
For the weave-in method, make sure you've woven through at least 3 stitches and that the new yarn is snug. For the Russian join, pull both strands hard—if either one slides through the yarn center, try again with a longer insertion (2 inches instead of 1). For the knot-and-weave, make sure your square knot is tight and the tails are at least 2 inches long so they don't pull free as you knit.
Common mistakes that weaken joins
The most common mistake is weaving through too few stitches. If you only weave through 1 or 2 stitches, the new yarn has nothing to grip and will slip as you knit. Weave through at least 3, and 4 is better. Another mistake is pulling the new yarn too tight while weaving, which puckers the stitches and makes them uneven. Pull just tight enough that the yarn sits snug—you should be able to slide your finger under the woven section without much resistance.
With the Russian join, the most common mistake is not inserting the needle far enough into the yarn center. If you only go halfway through, the needle will split the yarn fibers instead of sliding through the core, and the join will be weak. Push the needle all the way through and pull it out the other end. With the knot-and-weave, the mistake is tying a granny knot instead of a square knot—a granny knot is weaker and more likely to slip. Cross right over left, then left over right, to make a square knot.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?
Yes, but it's more visible than joining at an edge. If you must join mid-row, use the weave-in method because it's the most invisible. Join at a point in the stitch pattern where texture will help hide the join, like in a cable or a textured stitch, rather than in smooth stockinette.
What if my yarn is too thick to thread through a needle?
Use the knot-and-weave method instead. Tie a square knot between the two strands, knit the next stitch, and weave in the tails after you bind off. Thick yarn is harder to weave through stitches anyway, so a knot is often the better choice.
Do I have to weave in the ends if I use the Russian join?
No. The Russian join hides the new yarn inside the old yarn strand, so there are no loose ends to weave in. You can trim the tails close to the join and move on. This is one reason the Russian join is so popular—it saves time at the end.
Will the join show on the front of my finished piece?
Not if you join at an edge or use the weave-in method. If you join in the middle of a row with a knot, the knot will be visible on the front unless you weave it to the back of the fabric. Plan your joins at seams or edges whenever possible.
What's the difference between a square knot and a granny knot?
A square knot is made by crossing right over left, then left over right. A granny knot is made by crossing the same direction twice. A square knot is much stronger and won't slip as you knit. Always tie a square knot when joining yarn.