The Basic Method: Yarn Over and Decrease
A buttonhole in knitting is made by creating a gap in your fabric, then closing it back up on the next row. The simplest way is to yarn over (wrap yarn around your needle) and then decrease stitches on the same row. This removes stitches where you want the hole, and the yarn over adds a stitch back so your stitch count stays even.
On the row where you want the buttonhole, knit to the spot where the hole should be. Yarn over once, then knit two stitches together (or slip one stitch, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over if you prefer a neater decrease). This creates a one-stitch buttonhole. On the next row, knit across normally—the yarn over becomes a visible hole, and the decrease balances your stitch count.
This method works best for small buttons on lightweight yarn. The hole will be roughly the size of a single stitch, so it suits buttons under half an inch wide.
Key Takeaways
- A one-stitch buttonhole uses a yarn over paired with a decrease on the same row, creating a small hole that closes back to your original stitch count.
- For larger buttons, work the buttonhole over two or more rows by binding off stitches, then casting new stitches back on in the next row.
- Horizontal buttonholes (worked across multiple stitches) are stronger and more stable than vertical ones for garments that will be buttoned repeatedly.
- Always measure your button before deciding how many stitches to bind off—the hole should be snug enough that the button doesn't slip through.
- Practice buttonholes on a swatch first so you can see how your yarn and needle size affect the final hole size.
Larger Buttonholes: Binding Off and Casting On
For buttons wider than half an inch, you need a bigger hole. This buttonhole spans multiple stitches and takes two rows to complete. On the row where you want the buttonhole, knit to your starting point, bind off the number of stitches your button needs (usually three to five stitches for a medium button), then knit to the end of the row.
On the next row, knit across until you reach the bound-off gap. Using the cable cast-on method, cast new stitches onto your needle to fill the gap—cast on the same number you bound off. Knit to the end of the row. The cable cast-on creates a neat edge inside the hole and is less likely to stretch than other cast-on methods.
This creates a horizontal buttonhole that runs across your fabric. It is stronger than a yarn-over buttonhole because the stitches on either side of the hole are anchored by the cast-on edge.
Measuring Your Button Before You Knit
The size of your buttonhole depends on your button, not on a standard rule. Lay your button flat and measure its width in stitches. If your button is half an inch wide and your gauge is four stitches per inch, you need a two-stitch buttonhole.
Test on a swatch if you are unsure. Knit a small square in your yarn and needle size, make a buttonhole, and try pushing your button through. The button should fit snugly without forcing, and the hole should not be so loose that the button falls out when you move the fabric. Buttonholes stretch slightly with wear, so a snug fit now will loosen a little over time.
Write down the number of stitches that worked for your button before you start your garment. This saves you from guessing when you reach the buttonhole rows.
Vertical Buttonholes for Narrow Bands
If you are knitting a button band or placket and want the buttonhole to run up and down instead of across, you can work a vertical buttonhole by splitting your stitches and working each side separately. This method takes more rows but creates a hole that runs parallel to your edge.
At your buttonhole point, knit half your stitches, then turn and work back and forth on just those stitches for several rows (usually four to six, depending on your button size). Cut your yarn, rejoin it to the other half of your stitches, and work those stitches the same number of rows. Then knit across all stitches on the next row to close the gap.
Vertical buttonholes are less common in modern patterns because they are slower to knit and can look uneven if your tension shifts between the two sides. Horizontal buttonholes are usually the better choice unless your pattern specifically calls for a vertical one.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most frequent error is forgetting to decrease when you yarn over, which leaves you with extra stitches and throws off your stitch count for the rest of the row. Count your stitches before and after your buttonhole row to catch this early.
Another mistake is making the hole too large. A buttonhole that is one or two stitches too wide will let your button slip through and look sloppy. If you are unsure, start smaller—you can always make the next buttonhole slightly larger if needed.
Binding off too tightly on a larger buttonhole can make the edges curl or pucker. Use a needle one size larger when binding off for the buttonhole row, or bind off loosely by inserting your needle through the stitch in an unusual way to keep tension even.
Reinforcing Buttonholes in Heavy Fabrics
If you are knitting a thick sweater or coat in a heavy yarn, the edges of your buttonhole can fray or stretch out of shape. After you finish knitting, you can reinforce the hole by sewing around it with matching yarn using a whip stitch or backstitch.
Thread a tapestry needle with yarn that matches your garment. Starting at one corner of the buttonhole, sew small stitches around the entire perimeter of the hole, staying close to the edge. This anchors the stitches and prevents them from unraveling. Sew two or three times around for heavy fabrics.
Some knitters also use a small amount of clear nail polish or fabric glue around the buttonhole edge, but sewing is more durable and gives you better control over the final appearance.
Buttonholes in Different Stitch Patterns
The yarn-over-and-decrease method works in stockinette stitch (knit and purl rows) and most other patterns. If you are working in ribbing, garter stitch, or a textured pattern, the buttonhole will still function the same way, but it may look different because the surrounding stitches create visual texture.
In ribbing, a buttonhole can look less obvious because the vertical lines of the rib pattern draw the eye away from the hole. In garter stitch, the bumpy texture can make a small buttonhole harder to see, which is useful if you want a subtle closure. Test your pattern on a swatch to see how the buttonhole blends with your stitch pattern.
If you are working a colorwork pattern (stripes or Fair Isle), plan your buttonholes to fall in a solid-color section if possible. A buttonhole that crosses a color change can look messy and is harder to reinforce neatly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many stitches should I bind off for a medium button?
Measure your button's width and convert it to stitches using your gauge. For a half-inch button at four stitches per inch, bind off two stitches. For a three-quarter-inch button, bind off three stitches. Always test on a swatch first—it is easier to adjust before you knit the whole garment.
Can I make a buttonhole in the middle of a row?
Yes. Knit to your buttonhole point, work the buttonhole (yarn over and decrease, or bind off and cast on), then continue knitting to the end of the row. The buttonhole does not have to be at the edge of your fabric.
What if my buttonhole is too small after I finish knitting?
You can carefully cut the buttonhole slightly larger with small scissors, but this risks unraveling. It is safer to pick up stitches around the hole and knit a new, larger one. If the hole is only slightly too small, you can sometimes stretch it gently by pulling the button through repeatedly.
Do I need to sew around every buttonhole?
No. Buttonholes in lightweight yarn and fine gauge usually hold up without reinforcement. Sew around them only if the edges start to fray or if you are working in a heavy, loosely spun yarn where the stitches are more likely to come loose.
Can I make buttonholes in circular knitting?
Yes, using the same methods. In the round, you work every row as a knit row (or follow your stitch pattern), so a yarn-over-and-decrease buttonhole works exactly the same way. For a larger buttonhole, bind off stitches, then cast them back on in the next round.