The Two Foundation Stitches: Knit and Purl
Every knitted piece starts with two stitches: the knit stitch and the purl stitch. The knit stitch is the most basic — it is the one you learn first, and most of your knitting will be knit stitches. The purl stitch is the reverse of the knit stitch and creates a different texture on the fabric. Once you can do both, you can combine them to make patterns, textures, and finished pieces.
The difference between them comes down to which side of the needle the yarn sits on and which direction your needle moves through the loop. Both stitches use the same basic motion: you loop yarn around a needle, pull it through an existing loop, and find it. The order and direction change the result.
Key Takeaways
- The knit stitch is made by inserting your needle from left to right through a loop, wrapping yarn around the needle, and pulling a new loop through.
- The purl stitch uses the same motion but with the yarn in front of the needle instead of behind it, creating a bumpy texture instead of a smooth one.
- Both stitches start from a foundation row of cast-on loops that you create before you begin knitting.
- Tension — how tightly you pull the yarn — affects how even your stitches look and how quickly you finish your piece.
- Practice on a small swatch with thick yarn and large needles before starting a full project.
How to Make a Knit Stitch, Step by Step
Start with a needle that has cast-on loops on it. Hold the needle with the loops in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. The working yarn (the yarn attached to the ball) should hang from the last loop on the left needle.
Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle from left to right — the right needle goes in front of the left needle. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle, going under and then over it in a clockwise motion. Pull the right needle back through the loop, bringing the new loop of yarn with it. Slip the old loop off the left needle. You now have one knit stitch on the right needle.
Repeat this motion for every loop on the left needle. When you finish the row, all the loops have moved to the right needle. Swap the needles in your hands so the needle with stitches is now in your left hand, and repeat for the next row. This creates the basic knit fabric.
How to Make a Purl Stitch, Step by Step
A purl stitch looks like the back of a knit stitch. Start the same way — loops on the left needle, empty needle in the right hand, working yarn hanging from the last loop. The difference is where the yarn sits before you start.
Bring the working yarn to the front of your work, between the two needles. Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle from right to left — this time the right needle goes behind the left needle. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle, going over and then under it. Pull the right needle back through the loop, bringing the new loop with it. Slip the old loop off the left needle.
The motion feels backwards compared to the knit stitch because your needle direction reverses. Once you finish the row, swap needles and repeat. A row of purl stitches creates a bumpy, textured surface. Alternating knit and purl rows creates ribbed fabric, which stretches and looks different on each side.
Tension and Even Stitches
Tension means how tightly you pull the yarn as you work. Loose tension makes large, uneven stitches and a floppy fabric. Tight tension makes small, dense stitches and a stiff fabric. Even tension — where every stitch is roughly the same size — is what makes knitting look finished and professional.
Most beginners pull too hard on the working yarn after they complete each stitch. The loop should slide easily off the left needle without you yanking it. Let the needle do the work. Your right hand should hold the working yarn loosely, either over your index finger (English style) or in your left hand (Continental style). Try both and use whichever feels more natural.
Practice on a small swatch — a 4-by-4-inch square — before you start a real project. Use thick yarn (worsted weight or heavier) and needles sized for that yarn. Thick yarn is easier to see and easier to fix if you make a mistake. After you finish the swatch, look at the stitches. They should be roughly the same size, and the edges should be fairly straight.
Fixing Common Mistakes
If you drop a stitch (a loop falls off the needle), stop when ready and pick it up with a crochet hook before you go further. Insert the hook through the dropped loop from front to back, hook the working yarn or the loop above it, and pull it back through. This takes 30 seconds and prevents a run that can unravel several rows.
If you accidentally make an extra stitch (your row has more stitches than it started with), you probably wrapped the yarn around the needle without going through a loop. On the next row, knit two stitches together to remove the extra one. If you are missing a stitch (your row has fewer stitches), you probably dropped one without noticing. Pick it up with a crochet hook as described above.
If your edges are messy or uneven, focus on the first and last stitch of each row. Slip the first stitch (move it from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it) instead of knitting it. This creates a cleaner edge. Knit the last stitch normally.
Choosing Yarn and Needles for Practice
Start with yarn that is medium to thick — worsted weight (medium #4) or bulky (#5) is ideal. Avoid thin yarn, dark colors, and fuzzy textures. Thin yarn is hard to see, dark colors hide your stitches, and fuzzy yarn makes mistakes invisible until they become big problems. Light-colored, smooth yarn in worsted weight shows every stitch clearly.
Match your needles to your yarn. Most yarn labels say which needle size to use. For practice, go one size up — if the label says size 8, use size 9. Slightly larger needles make looser stitches that are easier to see and easier to fix. Bamboo or wooden needles grip the yarn better than metal needles, which makes them easier to control when you are learning.
Moving Forward After the Basics
Once you can make knit and purl stitches with even tension, you can make almost any knitted piece. Scarves use only knit stitches. Blankets use knit and purl in patterns. Hats, socks, and sweaters use the same two stitches in different combinations and shapes. The only new skill you need is how to cast on (create the first row of loops) and cast off (find the last row so it does not unravel).
Practice the knit and purl stitches until they feel automatic. Your hands should know the motion without you thinking about it. This usually takes a few hours of actual knitting time. After that, you can focus on following a pattern instead of concentrating on the stitch itself.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between knit and purl stitches?
The knit stitch has the yarn behind the needle and creates a smooth, V-shaped texture. The purl stitch has the yarn in front and creates a bumpy, rounded texture. They are the same stitch in reverse — if you purl every row, it looks like knitting every row from the other side.
Why do my stitches keep falling off the needle?
You are probably pulling the yarn too hard after each stitch, or your needles are too small for your yarn. Use needles one size larger than the yarn label suggests, and pull the yarn gently. The loop should slide off the needle easily without you forcing it.
How do I know if my tension is right?
Your stitches should be roughly the same size, and you should be able to slide them along the needle without resistance. If they are tight and hard to move, loosen your grip on the yarn. If they are so loose they fall off, tighten slightly. Even tension comes with practice — do not expect perfection on your first swatch.
Can I use any yarn and needles to learn?
No. Thin yarn, dark colors, and fuzzy textures hide mistakes. Metal needles are slippery. Use light-colored, smooth, worsted-weight yarn with bamboo or wooden needles one size larger than the label suggests. This makes learning much faster.
What do I do if I make a mistake several rows back?
If the mistake is small and does not affect the shape, you can leave it and keep going. If it is noticeable, you can unravel back to that row by pulling the working yarn and letting the stitches drop, then pick them back up with a crochet hook and re-knit from there. This is faster than ripping out the entire piece.