What Picking Up Stitches Means and When You Need It
Picking up stitches means using your needle and yarn to create new loops along an edge of your knitted fabric—usually along a bound-off edge, a side edge, or an opening where you want to add ribbing, a collar, or another piece. You are not unraveling anything. You are anchoring fresh yarn into the existing fabric so you can knit in a new direction from that edge.
You pick up stitches when you finish the main body of a sweater and need to knit a neckband, when you want to add a button band to a cardigan, when you are joining two pieces together, or when you need to fix a dropped stitch several rows down. The technique looks intimidating the first time, but it is just threading yarn through existing loops in a controlled way.
Key Takeaways
- Picking up stitches means creating new loops along an edge of finished knitting so you can knit in a new direction from that edge.
- Use a needle one or two sizes smaller than your working needle, and pick up stitches from the row just below the bound-off edge or from the side edge of your fabric.
- Insert your needle under two strands of yarn at each stitch location, wrap your working yarn around the needle, and pull a new loop through to the front.
- The number of stitches you pick up depends on your pattern, but picking up roughly one stitch per row on a side edge prevents bunching and puckering.
- Practice on a swatch first so you can see how the tension and spacing work before you commit to a finished garment.
Gather Your Tools and Choose the Right Needle Size
You will need your working yarn, a circular needle or straight needle (whichever your pattern calls for), and optionally a crochet hook. Many knitters find a crochet hook helpful for picking up stitches because the hook catches yarn more easily than a needle point, though a needle works fine once you develop the feel for it.
Choose a needle that is one or two sizes smaller than the needle you used for the main fabric. A smaller needle helps you pick up stitches more tightly and prevents the picked-up edge from looking loose or wavy. If your pattern specifies a needle size for the picked-up section, follow that. Otherwise, go down one size from your working needle.
Identify Where to Pick Up Stitches
Look at the edge where you want to pick up stitches. If you are picking up along a bound-off edge (the top of a finished piece), you will see a row of bumps or loops. If you are picking up along a side edge (the vertical edge of your knitting), you will see a chain-like pattern running up the side.
For a bound-off edge, pick up stitches from the row just below the bind-off. This means you are going into the loops of the last row you knitted before you bound off. For a side edge, pick up stitches from the bumps that run along the side—these are the horizontal bars between rows. Avoid picking up from the very edge itself, as those stitches are often loose or distorted.
The Basic Picking-Up Motion, Step by Step
Hold your needle in your right hand and the fabric in your left. Insert the needle from front to back under the two strands of yarn that make up one stitch. You are going under the bump or loop, not splitting the yarn or going through the center of a stitch.
Wrap your working yarn around the needle the same way you would for a regular knit stitch. Pull the new loop through to the front. You now have one stitch on your needle. Repeat this motion along the entire edge, moving from left to right (or right to left—either direction works, but pick one and stick with it).
The key is consistency: each stitch should go under the same two strands, and each wrap should be the same tension. If your first few stitches feel awkward, that is normal. By the tenth stitch, your hands will find the rhythm.
How Many Stitches to Pick Up
Your knitting pattern will tell you exactly how many stitches to pick up. If it does not, use this rule: for a side edge, pick up roughly one stitch for every row. If you knitted 24 rows on that edge, pick up about 24 stitches. For a bound-off edge, pick up one stitch in each stitch of the bind-off row.
If you pick up too few stitches, the edge will pucker and curl inward. If you pick up too many, the edge will flare and wave outward. Picking up one stitch per row on a side edge is the safest starting point. Once you have picked up all your stitches, count them to make sure you have the right number before you start knitting the next row.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is picking up stitches too loosely. If your picked-up stitches are much looser than the rest of your fabric, your edge will look sloppy. Tighten your tension slightly as you pick up, and make sure each wrap of yarn is snug against the needle.
Another mistake is picking up from the wrong row or edge. If you pick up from the very edge of the fabric instead of one row in, your stitches will be loose and uneven. Always go one row or one stitch in from the absolute edge.
A third mistake is inconsistent spacing. If you skip a stitch here and pick up two stitches there, the edge will look bumpy. Mark your edge with stitch markers every 10 stitches so you can count and stay on track. This is especially helpful on long edges like an armhole or neckline.
Practice on a Swatch Before Your Finished Piece
Knit a small practice swatch about 4 inches by 4 inches in the same yarn and on the same needles you plan to use for your project. Bind off the top edge. Then pick up stitches along that bound-off edge and knit a few rows. This shows you exactly how the tension feels, how the spacing works, and whether your needle size is right.
If the picked-up edge looks loose or wavy on your swatch, go down another needle size or tighten your tension. If it looks bunched or puckered, go up a needle size or loosen slightly. A swatch takes 20 minutes and saves you from redoing an entire neckband on a finished sweater.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I pick up stitches with a crochet hook instead of a needle?
Yes. Many knitters find a crochet hook easier because the hook catches yarn more reliably than a needle point. Use a hook one or two sizes smaller than your working needle. The motion is the same: insert under the stitch, wrap yarn, and pull through. Once you have all your stitches on the hook, transfer them to a knitting needle and continue knitting normally.
What if I pick up the wrong number of stitches?
If you are off by one or two stitches, you can usually adjust by increasing or decreasing on the first row of the new section. If you are off by more than that, it is worth picking out and starting over, especially on a visible edge like a neckline. Picking up again takes less time than fixing a misaligned band later.
Do I pick up stitches the same way on a side edge as on a bound-off edge?
The motion is identical, but the location is different. On a bound-off edge, you go under the bumps of the last knitted row. On a side edge, you go under the horizontal bars between rows. Both use the same insert-wrap-pull motion, just in different places along your fabric.
Why does my picked-up edge look loose compared to the rest of my knitting?
Your tension is probably too loose. Tighten your working yarn slightly as you pick up stitches, and make sure each wrap is snug. Also check that you are using a needle one or two sizes smaller than your working needle. A larger needle will make the picked-up stitches look loose no matter how tight your tension is.
Can I pick up stitches from the middle of my knitting to fix a dropped stitch?
Yes, though it is a bit trickier. Use a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch and ladder it back up through the rows above it, then transfer the final loop to your needle. This is easier to learn by watching a video, but the principle is the same: you are threading yarn through existing loops to recreate the stitches you lost.