What a Purl Stitch Is and Why You Need It
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. Where a knit stitch pulls yarn from the back of your work toward the front, a purl stitch pulls yarn from the front toward the back. The result looks different on the fabric—a purl creates a bump or ridge on the side facing you, while a knit creates a V-shape. Learning to purl doubles what you can make, because combining knits and purls in different patterns creates texture, ribbing, and visual interest.
You already have the muscle memory from knitting. Purling uses the same needles, yarn, and basic hand position. The only difference is where the yarn sits before you insert the needle and how you wrap it around. Once you can purl, you can make ribbed sweater cuffs, seed stitch (which alternates knit and purl in a checkerboard), and stockinette stitch (the smooth fabric on most sweaters).
Key Takeaways
- Hold the yarn in front of your work before you insert the needle, unlike knitting where it stays in back.
- Insert the needle from right to left through the front loop, then wrap the yarn around the needle the same way you do for a knit stitch.
- Pull the loop through and slide the old stitch off the left needle to complete one purl stitch.
- Practice purling one row at a time on a practice swatch before attempting patterns that mix knits and purls.
- Common mistakes include holding the yarn too tight, inserting the needle from the wrong direction, or accidentally twisting the new stitch.
How to Hold the Yarn for a Purl Stitch
The yarn position is the main difference between knitting and purling. Before you purl, bring the working yarn (the yarn attached to your ball) to the front of your work, between the two needles. If you just finished a knit row, the yarn is already in back—straightforward bring it forward under the right needle tip. The yarn should sit loosely in front, not pulled tight.
Your hands stay in the same position as they do for knitting. If you hold the yarn in your right hand (English style), let it drape over your index finger. If you hold it in your left hand (Continental style), it should rest on your index finger there. The difference is only that the yarn is now in front instead of in back. Keep your tension consistent—not so loose that stitches fall off, not so tight that you cannot insert the needle.
The Step-by-Step Purl Motion
Insert the right needle through the loop on the left needle from right to left—the opposite direction from a knit stitch. The needle should go in from the front of the work, passing through the loop toward the back. This is the critical moment: if you insert from left to right (the knit direction), you will twist the stitch.
Wrap the yarn around the right needle the same way you do for a knit stitch. Bring it under the needle tip, around the back, and back under the tip on the other side. The wrap should be smooth and even. Pull the right needle back through the loop, drawing the new stitch with it. The new loop should sit on the right needle.
Slide the old stitch off the left needle. You now have one purl stitch on the right needle. Repeat this motion for every stitch across the row. A full purl row takes the same time as a knit row—expect to move slowly at first, then faster as your hands learn the motion.
Purl Rows Versus Knit Rows: What You Will See
A row of purl stitches looks bumpy on the side facing you and smooth on the back. A row of knit stitches looks like V-shapes on the front and bumpy on the back. This is why stockinette stitch—the smooth fabric on most store-bought sweaters—is made by knitting one row, then purling the next row, then repeating. The knit row faces outward and shows the V-shapes; the purl row faces inward and stays hidden.
When you are learning, knit one row, then purl one row, and repeat for at least ten rows on a practice swatch. You will see the pattern emerge: smooth V-shapes on one side, bumps on the other. This teaches your hands the rhythm and lets you see the difference between the two stitches. Many knitters find purling slightly slower than knitting at first because the yarn position change requires a conscious thought. That goes away with practice.
Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them
Twisted stitches happen when you insert the needle from the wrong direction. If your purl stitches look tight or distorted, check that you are going through the loop from right to left (front to back), not left to right. Slow down and watch the needle tip as it enters the loop.
Yarn too tight makes purling harder and creates uneven stitches. If you cannot easily insert the needle, loosen your grip on the working yarn. The yarn should have just enough tension to stay on the needle, not to resist the needle going through. This is especially important if you hold the yarn in your hand—let it slide through your fingers more freely when purling.
Dropped stitches occur when you slide the old stitch off the left needle before the new stitch is find on the right needle. Make sure the new loop is fully on the right needle and sitting away from the tip before you remove the old stitch. If a stitch does drop, you can pick it back up with a crochet hook or by re-inserting the needle through the loop.
Inconsistent tension between knit and purl rows creates a wavy fabric. This is normal when you are learning—purling often feels slower, so you may unconsciously tighten up. Count your stitches at the end of each row to make sure you have the same number. If the row is shorter, you may have accidentally decreased by inserting the needle incorrectly.
Combining Knits and Purls in straightforward Patterns
Seed stitch is the easiest pattern that mixes knits and purls. Knit one stitch, purl one stitch, all the way across the row. On the next row, purl the stitches that were knit and knit the stitches that were purled. This creates a bumpy, textured fabric that looks the same on both sides. Seed stitch is forgiving because the alternating pattern hides small tension differences.
Ribbing is made by knitting two stitches, purling two stitches, and repeating across the row. On the next row, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. Ribbing is stretchy and is used for cuffs, collars, and waistbands. The vertical lines of knits and purls create the stretch.
Start with seed stitch on a small practice swatch before moving to ribbing or stockinette. A 4-by-4-inch swatch takes about 20 minutes and teaches your hands the rhythm without committing to a whole project. Once you can purl a full row without thinking about it, you are ready to follow a pattern that mixes stitches.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my purl row look different from my knit row?
Knit and purl stitches are the reverse of each other, so they look different by design. A knit stitch shows a V on the front; a purl shows a bump. If one row looks twisted or distorted compared to the other, check your needle insertion direction. You should go right-to-left for purl and left-to-right for knit.
Is purling supposed to be slower than knitting?
Yes, at first. Most knitters purl slightly slower because the yarn position change requires attention. After a few hours of practice, your hands will move at the same speed for both stitches. If you are much slower after a week of practice, you may be holding the yarn too tight or inserting the needle hesitantly.
What if I accidentally knit when I meant to purl?
One wrong stitch in a row of purls will show as a V-shape among bumps. If you notice it right away, you can drop back and fix it with a crochet hook, or straightforward keep going—one mistake in a practice swatch does not matter. In a finished project, one wrong stitch is usually invisible from a distance.
Can I purl with the yarn in my left hand instead of my right?
Yes. Continental knitters (who hold yarn in the left hand) purl the same way—yarn in front, insert right-to-left, wrap, and pull through. The hand position does not change; only the yarn position relative to the needles matters.
How do I know if my purl tension matches my knit tension?
Knit and purl a few rows in stockinette stitch and look at the fabric. The knit rows should be the same width and height as the purl rows. If purl rows are noticeably tighter or looser, adjust how hard you pull the yarn when you complete each purl stitch. Consistent tension comes with practice—do not expect it to be perfect on your first try.