Knitting charts use symbols instead of words to show you every stitch
A knitting chart is a grid where each small square represents one stitch, and symbols inside those squares tell you what type of stitch to work. Instead of reading "knit 5, purl 2, knit 3," you look at the chart and see the pattern laid out visually, row by row. Charts work the same way whether you're knitting flat (back and forth) or in the round, though the direction you read them changes slightly.
The biggest advantage of charts is that you can see the pattern taking shape as you work—a cable crossing, a colorwork design, or a lace motif becomes obvious on the grid. This makes it easier to spot mistakes before you've gone too far, and it's especially useful for patterns that repeat or for designs that would take paragraphs to describe in words.
Key Takeaways
- Each square on a chart represents one stitch, and a symbol inside tells you what stitch to work.
- Read flat knitting from bottom to top, starting at the right side of the chart and moving left on odd-numbered rows, then left to right on even-numbered rows.
- Read circular knitting from bottom to top, always working left to right, because you're working in one continuous direction around the needle.
- A chart key (usually printed nearby) shows what each symbol means—knit, purl, yarn over, decrease, and so on.
- Row numbers run up the side of the chart, and stitch counts run across the bottom, so you can find your place if you have to stop mid-row.
Understanding the chart grid and what each symbol means
Every knitting chart has a key printed somewhere on the pattern—usually at the bottom or in a sidebar. The key shows you what each symbol represents. A blank square usually means knit (or stockinette stitch), a dot or dash means purl, a forward slash means "knit 2 together" (a right-leaning decrease), and a backslash means "slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over" (a left-leaning decrease). Yarn overs are often shown as a circle or an O.
The symbols vary between designers and pattern sources, so always check the key before you start. Some charts use straightforward shapes (circles, slashes, dots), while others use more detailed icons that look like the stitch itself. Once you know what the symbols mean, reading the chart becomes straightforward—you're just following a visual map of your stitches.
The grid itself is organized by rows (horizontal lines) and stitches (vertical lines). Row numbers appear on the left or right side of the chart, numbered from bottom to top. Stitch counts run along the bottom, so you can count how many stitches wide the pattern is. This layout helps you find your place if you set the work down mid-row.
Reading charts for flat knitting (knitting back and forth)
When you knit flat, you work one row from right to left, then turn your work and knit the next row from left to right. Your chart reflects this direction. Start at the bottom right corner of the chart and read the first row from right to left. When you reach the end of that row and turn your work, you read the next row from left to right. Then turn again and read the third row from right to left, and so on, alternating directions as you move up the chart.
Row numbers help you keep track. Odd-numbered rows (1, 3, 5) are read right to left, and even-numbered rows (2, 4, 6) are read left to right. If you stop in the middle of a row, the row number tells you which direction you were going and where to pick up. Some charts print row numbers on both sides to make this easier—the number on the right side tells you to read that row right to left, and the number on the left tells you to read it left to right.
If your pattern repeats across the row (like a small motif that appears three times), the chart usually shows just one repeat, and the pattern instructions tell you how many times to work it. The stitch count at the bottom shows the width of one repeat, so you can multiply to find your total stitch count.
Reading charts for circular knitting (knitting in the round)
Circular knitting is simpler in one way: you always read the chart from left to right, because you're always moving in one direction around the needle. Start at the bottom left corner and read each row from left to right, then move up to the next row and read it left to right again. You never turn your work, so the direction never changes.
The trade-off is that what you see on the chart is the outside of your finished fabric—the side facing out. If you're working a colorwork pattern or a lace design, the chart shows you exactly what the finished piece will look like from the front. This is why circular knitting charts can feel more intuitive once you get used to them: there's no direction-switching to track.
Row numbers still run up the left side of the chart, numbered from bottom to top. If you're working a pattern that repeats around the circumference, the chart shows one repeat, and you work it as many times as your stitch count allows.
Keeping your place and marking your progress
A printed chart can be hard to read once you're a few rows in. Use a ruler, a sticky note, or a magnetic board to mark the row you're currently working. Place it just below the row you're on so you can see the symbols clearly without losing your place. Some knitters print their charts and highlight each row as they finish it, or use a highlighter pen to mark off completed rows.
If you're using a digital chart on a tablet or phone, many knitting apps let you tap each stitch as you work it, and the app highlights your progress automatically. This is especially helpful for complex patterns where it's straightforward to lose count.
When you finish a row, count your stitches against the stitch count on the chart. If your count matches, you're on track. If it doesn't, you've either added or dropped a stitch somewhere in that row, and it's worth finding the mistake before you move on. This habit saves time later.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is reading a row in the wrong direction. If you're knitting flat and you read an even-numbered row right to left instead of left to right, your stitches won't match the chart. Double-check the row number before you start each row, and remember: odd rows go right to left, even rows go left to right.
Another frequent error is misreading a symbol. A yarn over looks different from a knit stitch, and a decrease can be straightforward to confuse with a regular stitch if you're tired or distracted. Keep the key visible while you work, and if a symbol looks unfamiliar, stop and check the key before you work the stitch.
Losing your place mid-row happens to everyone. If you stop in the middle of a row, mark exactly which stitch you're on—not just which row. Use a stitch marker, a piece of yarn, or a note on paper. When you come back, you'll know exactly where to resume.
Finally, some charts are printed too small to read comfortably. If you're squinting, enlarge the chart on a photocopier or print it larger from a digital file. A chart you can read easily is a chart you'll follow accurately.
Working with chart repeats and pattern sections
Many patterns break the chart into sections. A repeat is a small section of the chart that you work multiple times across the row. The chart usually shows the repeat once, with a box or bracket around it, and the pattern tells you how many times to repeat it. For example, a chart might show a 6-stitch repeat that you work 8 times across 48 stitches.
Some patterns also have a setup section at the bottom (a few rows worked once) and an edge stitch on each side (one or two stitches that frame the repeat). The chart shows these clearly, usually with a different color or a border. Work the setup rows once, then work the repeat section as many times as the pattern specifies, then work the edge stitches at the end of the row.
If you're working a pattern that repeats vertically (like a cable or a colorwork motif that appears every 12 rows), the chart shows one vertical repeat, and you work it as many times as your pattern requires. The row numbers make it clear where one repeat ends and the next begins.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my chart doesn't have a key?
Check the pattern instructions—the key is usually printed separately, sometimes on a different page or in a sidebar. If you genuinely can't find it, contact the pattern designer or publisher. Working without a key means guessing at symbols, which leads to mistakes.
Can I use the same chart for different yarn weights?
The chart itself doesn't change, but the finished size will. A chart is a map of stitches, not a measurement. If you use thicker yarn, your finished piece will be larger; thinner yarn makes it smaller. Check the pattern for the recommended yarn weight and needle size to get the intended finished size.
What does a blank square mean if it's not in the key?
A blank square almost always means knit stitch (or stockinette stitch on the right side). This is the standard convention across most knitting patterns. If you're unsure, check the key or the pattern instructions.
How do I know if I'm reading the chart upside down?
If your finished pattern looks backwards or upside down compared to the picture in the pattern, you've been reading the chart in the wrong direction. Start over at the correct corner (bottom right for flat knitting, bottom left for circular) and work upward.
Can I photocopy a chart and write on it?
Yes, as long as the pattern is for personal use. Many knitters print charts and mark them up as they work. Just make sure you're not violating the pattern's copyright—commercial patterns usually allow personal copies, but check the pattern terms first.