The four ways to add stitches mid-row or between rows
Adding stitches in knitting means creating new loops on your needle to widen your fabric or shape it. You do this by working into existing stitches or the space between them, rather than casting on fresh. The method you choose depends on where you are in your work — whether you need the new stitch to sit invisibly within the fabric or whether you are adding a column of stitches along an edge.
The most common techniques are the yarn over, the lifted increase, the make one, and working twice into the same stitch. Each creates a new loop, but they sit differently in the fabric and leave different visual marks. Some are nearly invisible; others create a small hole or decorative line.
Key Takeaways
- A yarn over is the fastest increase and creates a small hole, making it useful for lace patterns or when you want the increase to show.
- A lifted increase (knit front and back, or KFB) is invisible and works well for shaping garments where you do not want a visible line.
- A make one increase is worked between two stitches and is nearly invisible, making it the best choice for seamless shaping.
- Working twice into the same stitch is the simplest method for beginners and creates a small bump in the fabric.
Yarn over: the fastest increase with a visible hole
A yarn over (YO) is the simplest increase to execute. You bring your working yarn to the front of your work, then knit the next stitch as normal. The yarn now wraps around the needle, creating a new loop and a small hole in the fabric.
Yarn overs are standard in lace knitting because the hole is intentional and decorative. They are also the fastest increase when you need to add many stitches quickly. The downside is that the hole is visible, so yarn overs are not the right choice if you are shaping a solid garment and want the increase to disappear into the fabric.
To work a yarn over between two knit stitches: bring yarn to front, knit the next stitch, and the yarn wraps the needle. Between a knit and a purl, bring yarn to front, purl the next stitch. The position of the yarn before you work the next stitch is what matters — it must pass over the needle to create the new loop.
Knit front and back: the easiest invisible increase
Knit front and back (KFB) means working twice into the same stitch without dropping it from the left needle. Knit into the front loop of the stitch as normal, but do not slip it off. Bring the right needle to the back of the left needle and knit into the back loop of the same stitch, then drop it.
This creates two stitches from one and is nearly invisible when done on a knit row. It is fast, requires no yarn manipulation, and works well for shaping sleeves or increasing at the edges of a garment. The increase sits slightly to the right of where you worked it, so it is not perfectly centered, but the offset is small enough to disappear in most fabrics.
KFB is often the first increase method beginners learn because it uses only the basic knit stitch. The main drawback is that it can create a small bump or bar in the fabric if your tension is loose, though this usually smooths out after blocking.
Make one: the centered invisible increase
A make one (M1) is worked between two stitches and is the most invisible increase available. You pick up the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on the left needle, then knit into it.
To work a make one: after you knit a stitch, look at the space between that stitch and the next one on the left needle. A small horizontal strand of yarn sits there. Insert the left needle under this strand from front to back, then knit into the back loop of the strand with the right needle. This twists the new stitch and closes the hole that would otherwise form.
Make one is the gold standard for seamless shaping because the increase sits centered between two stitches and blends into the fabric. It takes slightly longer than KFB because you must identify and pick up the strand, but the result is worth it in fitted garments. There is also a left-leaning version (M1L) and a right-leaning version (M1R), which you choose based on which direction you want the increase to slope.
Working twice into the same stitch: the beginner method
The simplest way to add a stitch is to work into the same stitch twice before dropping it from the left needle. On a knit row, knit the stitch, then purl it, then drop it. On a purl row, purl the stitch, then knit it, then drop it.
This method is straightforward and requires no special technique beyond basic knit and purl. The downside is that it creates a visible bump or bar in the fabric, making it less suitable for garments where you want the shaping to be invisible. It works well for dishcloths, blankets, or other projects where a visible increase line does not matter.
Where to add stitches: edges versus mid-fabric
If you are adding stitches along the edge of your work — such as when shaping a sleeve cap — you often work the increase one or two stitches in from the edge. This keeps the edge clean and makes seaming easier later. Work your edge stitch, then work your increase stitch, then continue across the row.
For increases that need to be spread across many rows, space them evenly. If a pattern says "increase every 4 rows," work the increase on row 4, then row 8, then row 12, and so on. This creates an even slope rather than a bunched cluster of new stitches.
When adding stitches mid-fabric for shaping — such as in the middle of a sleeve — make one is almost always the right choice because it is invisible and centered. Yarn overs are reserved for lace or decorative increases where the hole is part of the design.
Common mistakes when adding stitches
The most common error is dropping the original stitch too early when working KFB. Make sure you knit the front loop, then the back loop, before you let the stitch slip off the left needle. If you drop it after the first loop, you have only created one stitch instead of two.
Another mistake is picking up the wrong strand for a make one. The strand you need is the one that sits horizontally between two stitches on the left needle, not the vertical leg of a stitch itself. If you pick up the wrong strand, the new stitch will be twisted or the hole will not close properly.
Tension is also critical. If your increases are too loose, they will create visible holes or bumps even when you use an invisible method like KFB or make one. Work your increases with the same tension as the rest of your stitches, and do not pull the yarn tighter than usual.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between M1L and M1R?
M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right) refer to which direction the new stitch leans. M1L is worked by picking up the strand from back to front and knitting through the front loop, creating a left-leaning stitch. M1R is worked by picking up the strand from front to back and knitting through the back loop, creating a right-leaning stitch. Use them in pairs on either side of a center line for balanced shaping.
Can I add stitches at the beginning of a row?
Yes, but the method depends on how many stitches you need. For one or two stitches, use KFB or make one on the first stitch of the row. For many stitches at once, you will need to cast on new stitches using a provisional cast-on or another method that attaches them to your working edge, rather than increasing within the row.
Do yarn overs always create a hole?
Yes, a yarn over always creates a small hole because the new loop is formed by wrapping yarn around the needle without closing the gap. This is intentional in lace patterns. If you want an increase without a hole, use make one, KFB, or working twice into the same stitch instead.
What if my increases look uneven?
Uneven increases are usually caused by inconsistent tension or by working the increase at different points in the stitch. Practice working your chosen increase method several times on a swatch before you use it in a finished project. Make sure you are always picking up the strand or stitch in the same way, and keep your tension steady.