The two main ways to add a stitch mid-row

You add a stitch by creating a new loop on your needle without dropping an existing stitch. The two methods that work best are the yarn over, which leaves a visible hole, and the lifted increase, which is nearly invisible. Which one you use depends on whether you want the hole to show — yarn overs are often decorative, while lifted increases blend into the fabric.

Both methods take the same amount of time once you know the hand motion. The yarn over is simpler to learn first because the motion is smaller and more obvious. The lifted increase requires you to pick up a loop from a previous row, which feels awkward at first but becomes automatic.

Key Takeaways

  • A yarn over adds a stitch by wrapping yarn around the needle and leaving a deliberate hole in the fabric.
  • A lifted increase (also called a bar increase) adds a stitch by picking up the loop from the row below and knitting into it.
  • Yarn overs work best in lace patterns and decorative increases; lifted increases work best when you want the increase to be invisible.
  • Both methods happen between two existing stitches and do not require dropping stitches or casting on.

How to do a yarn over increase

A yarn over is the fastest increase to execute. Knit to the point where you want the new stitch, then wrap the working yarn around the right needle from front to back. On the next row, knit into that wrapped loop as if it were a regular stitch. The wrapped yarn becomes the new stitch, and the hole it creates is part of the pattern.

The yarn over works the same way whether you are working in stockinette (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) or garter stitch (knit every row). The hole will be visible on the right side of the fabric no matter which stitch pattern you are using. If you are working in the round, the yarn over still wraps the same way — around the needle from front to back.

Yarn overs are common in lace knitting because the holes are intentional and decorative. They are also used in eyelet patterns and in shawls where the openwork is part of the design. If you are following a pattern and it calls for a yarn over, the pattern will usually show it as "YO" in the instructions.

How to do a lifted increase

A lifted increase picks up a stitch from the row directly below and knits into it, creating a new stitch without a hole. Knit to the point where you want the increase. Using the left needle, reach down and pick up the loop from the stitch below the stitch you just knitted (not the stitch you are about to knit). Lift that loop onto the left needle, then knit into it as a regular stitch.

The lifted increase leaves a small horizontal bar where the new stitch was created, but the bar blends into the fabric and is much less noticeable than a yarn over hole. This makes it the best choice for shaping — adding stitches for sleeve caps, necklines, or waist shaping — when you do not want the increase to draw attention.

Lifted increases are also called bar increases or pick-up increases. They work in any stitch pattern and are especially useful in solid-colored knits where you want the shaping to be invisible. The motion takes a little practice because you have to reach down with the left needle while the right needle is still holding stitches, but the hand position becomes natural after a few rows.

When to use each type of increase

Use a yarn over when the hole is part of your design. Lace patterns, eyelet buttonholes, and decorative shawl increases all rely on yarn overs. The hole is intentional and adds visual interest. Patterns that call for yarn overs will specify where they go, usually in a chart or in written instructions marked "YO".

Use a lifted increase for all other shaping. Sleeve increases, waist shaping, and neckline decreases look better with a lifted increase because the stitch blends in. If a pattern does not specify which increase to use, a lifted increase is the safer choice because it will not create an unexpected hole in your fabric.

Some patterns use both. A shawl might have yarn overs in the lace sections and lifted increases in the body. A cardigan might have yarn overs around the buttonholes and lifted increases on the sleeves. Reading the pattern instructions will tell you which one to use at each point.

Common mistakes when adding stitches

The most common mistake is accidentally dropping the stitch you just created. After you wrap the yarn (for a yarn over) or pick up the loop (for a lifted increase), make sure the new loop stays on the left needle until you knit into it on the next row. If it falls off, you will have a hole that is not supposed to be there.

Another mistake is picking up the wrong loop when doing a lifted increase. You want the loop directly below the stitch you just knitted, not the loop two rows down or the loop in the next stitch over. The loop should be right underneath, at the base of the stitch above it. If you pick up the wrong loop, the increase will be in the wrong place and the fabric will look uneven.

Tension is also important. If you pull too tight when creating the new stitch, it will be smaller than the stitches around it and will look like a gap. If you pull too loose, the new stitch will be larger and will look sloppy. Aim for the same tension you use for regular stitches.

Increases in different stitch patterns

In stockinette stitch, both yarn overs and lifted increases work exactly as described above. The yarn over creates a hole, and the lifted increase creates a small bar. Both blend into the fabric reasonably well once you have a few rows of knitting above them.

In garter stitch (knit every row), yarn overs still create holes, but they may be less obvious because garter stitch is already textured. Lifted increases in garter stitch can be harder to see because the bumpy texture of garter stitch hides the bar. Both methods work, but you may need to look closely to see where the increase happened.

In ribbed patterns, increases are usually done in the knit columns rather than the purl columns, to keep the rib pattern aligned. A yarn over in a knit column will create a hole in that column. A lifted increase in a knit column will blend in. If you are increasing in a ribbed sweater, follow the pattern instructions for where to place the increase.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add a stitch at the edge of my knitting instead of in the middle?

Yes. At the edge, you can cast on a new stitch using the cable cast-on or any other method. This is different from adding a stitch mid-row and is often used for buttonbands or when you need to add many stitches at once. For a single stitch at the edge, a yarn over or lifted increase works, but casting on is cleaner.

What if I need to add multiple stitches in the same row?

You can do multiple yarn overs or lifted increases in one row, spaced however the pattern calls for. Each one is a separate action — knit a few stitches, do an increase, knit a few more, do another increase. If you need to add many stitches at once (like five or more), casting on is usually faster and neater than doing multiple increases.

Do I count the new stitch in my stitch count right away?

Yes. As soon as you create the new stitch, it counts toward your total. If you started with 50 stitches and did one yarn over or lifted increase, you now have 51 stitches. This matters for the next row because you will knit one more stitch than you did on the previous row.

What is the difference between an increase and a yarn over?

A yarn over is one type of increase. All yarn overs are increases (they add a stitch), but not all increases are yarn overs. A lifted increase is also an increase. The difference is that a yarn over leaves a hole and a lifted increase does not.

Can I undo an increase if I made a mistake?

Yes, but only if you catch it on the same row or the next row. Drop the new stitch off the needle and unravel it back to where you created it. If the mistake is several rows back, you will have to unravel multiple rows to fix it. This is why checking your work every few rows is helpful — the sooner you catch a mistake, the less you have to undo.