The Basic Method: Carrying Yarn Inside Your Work
The simplest way to change colors is to carry the old yarn inside your work as you knit with the new color. This works best when you are switching colors within the same row or just a few rows apart. Hold both yarns in your working hand, drop the old color, and pick up the new one. The old yarn sits inside the stitches you just made, hidden from view on the finished side.
This method keeps your tension even because both yarns stay close to your needles. It also means you do not have loose ends flapping around as you work. The main limitation is that if you carry yarn more than three or four stitches, it creates a long strand inside your work that can snag or look bumpy from the outside.
Key Takeaways
- Carrying yarn inside your work works for color changes within a few stitches and keeps the inside of your piece neat.
- Weaving yarn in as you go prevents long loose strands and is faster than weaving them in later.
- Stranding (holding both colors as you knit) creates a float on the inside and works for small color blocks.
- Cutting yarn and tying on a new color is the cleanest method for large color blocks but leaves ends to weave in.
- Tension is the most common mistake—pulling too tight on the new color creates puckered stitches.
Weaving Yarn In as You Knit
If you need to carry a color for more than four stitches, weave the unused yarn into the back of your stitches as you work. This prevents long floats (loose strands) from forming inside your piece. To weave, hold the unused yarn over your right needle, knit one stitch with the working yarn, then bring the unused yarn under your right needle for the next stitch. Alternate this pattern—over, under, over, under—as you knit across.
Weaving takes practice because you have to coordinate three things: holding two yarns, moving them in and out, and maintaining even tension. Start by practicing on a swatch with just two colors and a straightforward pattern, like alternating blocks of five stitches each. Once your hands learn the rhythm, it becomes automatic.
The advantage is that you can carry a color across many stitches without creating a visible bump on the finished side. The disadvantage is that weaving is slower than straightforward stranding, and if your tension is uneven, the woven yarn can show as a line running through your work.
Stranding: Holding Both Colors at Once
In stranded colorwork (also called Fair Isle), you hold both the old and new yarn in your working hand and switch between them as your pattern requires. One yarn stays in your left hand, one in your right, and you pick up whichever color you need for each stitch. The unused yarn floats across the back of your work, creating a strand inside.
This method is fast once you develop the hand position, because you never put down either yarn. It works beautifully for patterns where colors alternate every few stitches, like traditional Fair Isle designs. The floats on the inside add insulation, which is why stranded sweaters are warm.
The catch is that long floats (more than five or six stitches) can snag when you pull the garment on or off. If a float is too loose, it creates a baggy spot; if it is too tight, it puckers the fabric. Most knitters solve this by weaving the unused yarn in every few stitches, combining stranding with weaving.
Cutting and Tying On a New Color
For large blocks of solid color, the cleanest approach is to cut the old yarn and tie on the new one. Cut the working yarn about six inches from your needle, then tie the new yarn to it using a square knot. Slide the knot up close to your needle, and knit the next stitch with the new yarn. Later, when you finish the piece, you will weave both ends into the seams or the inside of the fabric.
This method leaves you with loose ends to deal with, but it eliminates the problem of floats entirely. It is the right choice when you are knitting a striped sweater with ten rows of one color, then ten rows of another. Carrying yarn across ten rows would create a thick, visible ridge inside your work.
The square knot is important because it will not slip as you knit. Tie it snugly, but not so tight that you cannot slide it to the base of your needle. If the knot is too far from the needle, the first stitch after the knot will be loose and uneven.
Managing Tension When You Switch Colors
The most common mistake is pulling too hard on the new yarn when you start knitting with it. This creates a tight, puckered stitch right where the colors meet. To avoid this, knit the first stitch or two with the new color slightly looser than normal, then return to your regular tension for the rest of the row.
If you are stranding or weaving, tension matters even more because uneven tension makes the floats visible or causes the fabric to pucker. Practice on a swatch until the tension looks even across color changes. A good test is to hold your finished swatch up to the light—you should not see obvious tight spots or loose areas where colors meet.
If you find that your tension is consistently too tight, try using a needle one size larger just for the stitches where you switch colors, then switch back to your regular needle. Some knitters also find it helpful to take a breath and consciously relax their hands right before picking up a new color.
Weaving in Ends After You Finish
Once you have finished knitting, you will have loose yarn ends wherever you cut and tied on a new color. Weave these ends into the fabric using a tapestry needle. Thread the end through the needle, then run it through the inside of your stitches for about two inches, following the path of a row or column of stitches. This anchors the end so it will not unravel.
For a sweater or other garment with seams, you can weave ends into the seam allowance instead of the body of the piece. This keeps them completely hidden. For seamless pieces, weave ends into the inside of the fabric, following the grain of the knit so the woven yarn is less visible.
Trim the end close to the fabric after weaving it in, but leave about a quarter inch so it does not pull back out. If you trim too close, the end can slip free and your color change will unravel.
Choosing the Right Method for Your Project
The method you choose depends on how often you are switching colors and how large each color block is. Use the carrying method for color changes within a few stitches. Use weaving for color changes up to about ten stitches. Use stranding for patterns where colors alternate every few stitches. Use cutting and tying for large blocks of solid color.
If you are unsure, knit a small swatch with your yarn and needles using the method you are considering. This takes fifteen minutes and shows you exactly how the finished fabric will look. It also gives your hands a chance to practice before you commit to a full project.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happens if I pull too tight on the new color?
The stitches right where you switch colors will be noticeably smaller and tighter than the rest of your work, creating a puckered line. To fix it, knit the first one or two stitches with the new color slightly looser than normal, then return to your regular tension. On your next project, consciously relax your hand as you pick up the new yarn.
Can I carry yarn across the entire back of a sweater?
No. Long floats snag easily and create thick, visible ridges inside the garment. If you need to carry a color more than five or six stitches, weave it in as you go. For large color blocks, cut the yarn and tie on a new color instead.
Do I have to weave in ends if I tie on a new color?
Yes. Loose ends will unravel if you do not find them. Thread each end through a tapestry needle and run it through the inside of your stitches for about two inches. Trim close to the fabric after weaving.
Which method is fastest?
Stranding (holding both colors and switching between them) is fastest once you develop the hand position. Weaving is slower because you have to move the unused yarn in and out. Cutting and tying is fastest during knitting but slowest overall because you have to weave in many ends afterward.
What is the difference between stranding and weaving?
In stranding, you hold both colors and let the unused yarn float across the back. In weaving, you hold both colors but actively weave the unused yarn in and out of your stitches. Weaving prevents long floats but takes more coordination and is slower.