What Decreasing a Stitch Means and Why You Do It
A decrease is a knitting technique that removes one stitch from your needle, making your fabric narrower. You use decreases to shape your project — tapering sleeves, closing the crown of a hat, or creating the angled edges of a cardigan. Without decreases, every row would add the same width, and you'd end up with a rectangle instead of a fitted garment.
Decreases work by combining two stitches into one. The stitch count on your needle drops by one, and the fabric naturally pulls inward at that point. Different decrease methods create slightly different angles and textures, so the method you choose affects how your finished piece looks.
Key Takeaways
- The two most common decreases are knit two together (K2tog), which slants right, and slip-slip-knit (SSK), which slants left.
- Knit two together is faster and works for most projects; slip-slip-knit takes an extra step but gives you more control over the slant direction.
- Paired decreases on opposite sides of your work create symmetrical shaping — use K2tog on the right edge and SSK on the left edge.
- Practice decreases on a swatch before working them into a garment so you can see how they look and feel at your tension.
Knit Two Together (K2tog) — The Fastest Method
Knit two together is the simplest decrease and the one most beginners learn first. Insert your right needle through two stitches on your left needle at the same time, as if you were going to knit them separately. Wrap your yarn and pull through both stitches in one motion, leaving one new stitch on your right needle. You have now combined two stitches into one.
This decrease slants to the right because the second stitch sits on top of the first. If you're working flat (back and forth on straight needles), a K2tog on the right side of your work creates a right-leaning line. The decrease happens quickly and doesn't interrupt your rhythm, which is why it's the go-to for most knitters.
Common mistakes: inserting your needle through only one stitch by accident, or wrapping the yarn too loosely so the new stitch is loose and uneven. Slow down on your first few decreases and make sure both stitches are fully on your right needle before you pull the yarn through.
Slip-Slip-Knit (SSK) — The Left-Leaning Decrease
Slip-slip-knit takes one extra step but gives you a decrease that slants to the left. Slip two stitches one at a time from your left needle to your right needle, as if you were going to knit them. Then insert your left needle through the front of both slipped stitches (from left to right) and knit them together. One new stitch remains on your right needle.
The extra steps — slip, slip, insert left needle, knit — take practice to do smoothly, but the payoff is a clean left-leaning line. When you pair SSK on the left edge of your work with K2tog on the right edge, the two decreases mirror each other and create balanced, professional-looking shaping.
The most common mistake is inserting your left needle through the stitches from the wrong direction. You want to go through them from left to right (the direction you normally knit), not right to left. If you go the wrong way, you'll twist the stitches and they won't sit flat.
Using Decreases for Symmetrical Shaping
When you're shaping both sides of a garment — like narrowing a sleeve or closing a neckline — you want the decreases to look the same on both edges. The way to do this is to use different decrease methods on each side. On the right edge, use K2tog (right-leaning). On the left edge, use SSK (left-leaning). The two decreases mirror each other and frame your shaping beautifully.
If you use K2tog on both sides, the right side will look neat but the left side will look twisted or uneven. If you use SSK on both sides, you'll get the opposite problem. Pairing them is what makes the shaping look intentional and balanced. Most patterns that involve shaping will tell you which decrease to use on each side, but now you understand why.
Decreasing Multiple Stitches in One Row
Some patterns ask you to decrease several stitches at once — for example, "decrease 3 stitches evenly across the row." This doesn't mean using one decrease three times. Instead, you space the decreases out so they're spread across the row and the fabric narrows evenly.
To figure out where to place them, divide the total number of stitches on your needle by the number of decreases you need to make. If you have 60 stitches and need to decrease 3 stitches, you'd place a decrease roughly every 20 stitches. Work a few stitches, then decrease, then work a few more stitches, then decrease again. The exact spacing doesn't have to be perfect — the goal is to avoid bunching all the decreases in one spot.
Practicing Decreases on a Swatch
Before you work decreases into a real project, knit a small practice swatch about 4 inches square. Cast on 20 stitches and knit a few rows in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side). Then work a row with K2tog in the middle, and another row with SSK in the middle. Knit several more rows and bind off.
Look at your swatch and feel how the stitches sit. You'll see the right-leaning line of the K2tog and the left-leaning line of the SSK. You'll also notice how tight or loose your decreases are at your personal tension. If they're too loose, you may be wrapping your yarn too loosely or not pulling the new stitch snug enough. If they're too tight, you may be pulling too hard. A swatch shows you these things before they show up in a sleeve or neckline.
Other Decreases You'll Encounter Later
Once you're comfortable with K2tog and SSK, you may run into other decreases in more advanced patterns. Purl two together (P2tog) works the same way as K2tog but on a purl row. Centered double decreases like central double decrease (CDD) remove two stitches at once and create a centered line, often used in lace patterns. Knit three together (K3tog) combines three stitches into one and creates a sharper angle.
These decreases follow the same principle: you're combining multiple stitches into fewer stitches. Once you understand how K2tog and SSK work, you can figure out the others by reading the pattern instructions and practicing on a swatch first. Don't try a new decrease for the first time in the middle of a garment.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between a decrease and binding off?
A decrease removes one stitch and leaves the remaining stitches live on your needle so you can keep knitting. Binding off secures all your stitches and finishes an edge so they won't unravel. You use decreases during shaping; you use binding off at the end of a project or when you're done with a section.
Can I use K2tog on every decrease, or do I have to use SSK sometimes?
You can use K2tog for most projects and they'll work fine. Using SSK on one side and K2tog on the other is about making the shaping look balanced and intentional. If you're making a straightforward project or the slant direction doesn't matter to you, K2tog alone is perfectly acceptable.
Why does my decrease look loose or uneven?
Loose decreases usually mean you're not pulling the yarn tight enough after you insert your needle through both stitches. Pull the working yarn firmly after you complete the decrease, and make sure the new stitch is snug on your needle. If it's still loose, you may be wrapping the yarn too loosely in general — try tightening your tension slightly on that row.
Do I count a decrease as one stitch or two stitches?
You count it as one stitch. When you decrease, you remove one stitch from your total count. If you had 40 stitches and worked one K2tog, you now have 39 stitches on your needle. This is why decreases are how you narrow your fabric.
What if I decrease in the wrong place by accident?
If you notice it right away, you can drop back a few rows and fix it. If you don't notice until later, you can often leave it — one misplaced decrease usually won't ruin a project, especially if it's on a seam or edge that will be hidden. For future projects, place a stitch marker where your decreases should go so you don't lose track.