The Purl Stitch: Working Yarn in Front

A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch — instead of inserting your needle from left to right through the loop, you insert it from right to left, and you hold the working yarn in front of your needles instead of in back. The motion feels backward at first, but once your hands learn the path, it becomes automatic.

The purl stitch is essential because knit and purl stitches combine to create texture and pattern. A single row of purls on top of knits creates a ridge. Alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row makes ribbing. Blocks of knit and purl create cables, seed stitch, and stockinette fabric (which is smooth on one side because you knit one row, purl the next, then repeat).

Key Takeaways

  • Hold the working yarn in front of your needles for every purl stitch, unlike knit stitches where it stays in back.
  • Insert the right needle from right to left through the loop on the left needle, then wrap the yarn around the right needle and pull the new loop through.
  • The purl stitch creates a bumpy texture on the side facing you and a smooth V on the back — the opposite of a knit stitch.
  • Practice purling a full row before mixing knit and purl stitches in the same row, because switching yarn position between stitches takes coordination.

Step-by-Step: How to Purl

Start with the working yarn already in front of your needles. If you just finished a knit row, bring the yarn forward between the needles before you begin purling. Hold the left needle in your left hand with the loops facing you, and hold the right needle in your right hand.

Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle from right to left — the needle tip goes in from the far side of the loop and comes out toward you. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle from right to left, going under and then over the needle tip. Pull the right needle back through the loop, bringing the new stitch with it. Slip the old loop off the left needle. You have completed one purl stitch.

Repeat this motion for every stitch across the row. Your tension should feel the same as your knit stitches — not too tight, not so loose the loops fall apart. If your purls look much looser than your knits, you may be wrapping the yarn too loosely or pulling the new stitch through too gently.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The most frequent error is forgetting to move the yarn to the front before you start purling. If you purl with the yarn in back, you will accidentally create a yarn over (an extra loop) instead of a purl stitch, and your stitch count will climb. Check the yarn position before every row.

The second mistake is moving the yarn back and forth between stitches instead of keeping it in front for the entire purl row. This creates loose, uneven stitches and makes the edge of your fabric look sloppy. Keep the yarn in front the whole time you are purling, and only move it to the back when you switch to knit stitches on the next row.

Tight purls are also common, especially when you are learning. Purling requires a slightly looser hand than knitting because the yarn path is longer. If your purl stitches are noticeably tighter than your knits, consciously relax your grip on the working yarn and give yourself a little extra room when you wrap it around the needle.

Knit and Purl Together in One Row

Once you can purl a full row smoothly, you are ready to alternate knit and purl stitches in the same row. This is where the yarn position matters most. Before each knit stitch, the yarn must be in back. Before each purl stitch, it must be in front. Moving the yarn between stitches takes practice, but it is the foundation for almost every knitting pattern.

Start with a straightforward pattern: knit one stitch, purl one stitch, repeat across the row. This creates seed stitch, a textured fabric that looks the same on both sides. After you finish the row, turn your work around and repeat the same pattern — knit the purls from the previous row and purl the knits. This reversal is what makes seed stitch work.

If you drop a stitch or lose track of whether you are supposed to knit or purl, stop and count. Look at the stitch below the one you are about to work. If it looks like a V, the stitch above it should be a purl. If it looks like a bump, the stitch above it should be a knit. This visual check saves time and prevents having to rip back an entire row.

Purl Stitch Tension and Consistency

Purl stitches often look looser than knit stitches in the same piece, even when your tension is actually even. This is because the purl stitch sits on top of the fabric rather than sinking into it the way a knit does. The visual difference is normal and does not mean your tension is wrong.

To check your actual tension, look at the row below. If the stitches are the same size whether they are knits or purls, your tension is consistent. If the purls are visibly larger, you are wrapping the yarn too loosely or pulling the new stitch through too gently. Tighten slightly by wrapping the yarn a bit closer to the needle tip and pulling with a little more control.

When You Will Use Purl Stitches

Ribbing — the stretchy fabric on cuffs and hems — is made by alternating columns of knit and purl stitches. Stockinette stitch, the smooth fabric used for most sweaters and blankets, is made by knitting one row and purling the next, then repeating. Garter stitch, which looks bumpy on both sides, is made by knitting every row, but understanding purl helps you read patterns that call for it.

Cables require purling the stitches that frame the twisted column. Lace patterns use purl stitches to create the valleys between yarn overs. Even straightforward patterns like checkerboards and stripes rely on purl stitches to create contrast. Once purling becomes automatic, you will find it in almost every pattern you pick up.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do my purl stitches look so much looser than my knit stitches?

Purl stitches naturally sit higher on the fabric than knits, so they can look looser even when your tension is even. If they are actually loose (the loop is visibly larger), wrap the yarn closer to the needle tip and pull the new stitch through with a bit more control. Practice will tighten this up.

What happens if I forget to move the yarn to the front before purling?

You will create a yarn over instead of a purl stitch, adding an extra loop to your row. Your stitch count will climb, and the fabric will have holes. Check the yarn position before every row, and if you notice the mistake mid-row, rip back to the error and start again rather than trying to fix it later.

Can I purl if I knit continental style?

Yes. Continental knitters hold the yarn in the left hand and use the needle to pick it up. Purling in continental style means inserting the needle from right to left and picking the yarn with a downward motion instead of wrapping it. The motion is different but the result is the same stitch.

Do I have to purl every other row, or can I purl multiple rows in a row?

You can purl as many rows as you want in a row. Purling every row creates garter stitch (bumpy on both sides). Purling one row and knitting the next creates stockinette (smooth on one side). The pattern you are following will tell you which rows to purl and which to knit.