Seed stitch is a knit-purl pattern that creates a bumpy, textured fabric
Seed stitch alternates single knit stitches with single purl stitches in a checkerboard pattern. On the first row, you knit one stitch, then purl one stitch, repeating across. On the second row, you purl where you knitted and knit where you purled. This reversal creates the bumpy texture that gives seed stitch its name — the fabric looks dotted with small seeds.
The pattern is one of the simplest textured stitches to work once you understand the basic rule: always work the opposite stitch from what appears on the needle. If the stitch looks like a V (a knit), you purl it. If it looks like a bump (a purl), you knit it. Seed stitch lies flat, does not curl at the edges, and works equally well on both sides, making it useful for scarves, blankets, and garment borders.
Key Takeaways
- Seed stitch alternates knit and purl stitches in every row, with each row reversing the pattern of the row below.
- The pattern requires only basic knit and purl skills and produces a reversible, flat fabric that does not curl.
- Cast on an even number of stitches to keep the pattern balanced across rows.
- Once you complete the first two rows, the pattern becomes automatic because the stitches on the needle tell you what to do next.
Setting up your cast-on for seed stitch
Cast on an even number of stitches — 20, 24, 30, or however many you need for your project. An even number keeps the pattern symmetrical and prevents the checkerboard from shifting to one side as you work upward.
If you cast on an odd number by mistake, the pattern will still work, but it will spiral slightly instead of forming neat columns. For practice, cast on 20 or 24 stitches so you have enough width to see the pattern clearly without the work becoming unwieldy.
Working the first row of seed stitch
Row 1: Knit one stitch, then purl one stitch. Repeat this knit-purl sequence all the way across the row until you reach the end. Your last stitch should be a purl if you started with a knit.
If you cast on 20 stitches, you will work 10 knit stitches and 10 purl stitches in alternating order. The row will look uneven at first — some stitches will sit higher on the needle than others — but this is normal and will even out as you work the next row.
Working the second row and beyond
Row 2: Look at the first stitch on your left needle. If it looks like a V (a knit stitch), purl it. If it looks like a bump (a purl stitch), knit it. Continue this pattern across the entire row. Your last stitch should be a knit if your first stitch was a purl.
After you complete row 2, the pattern becomes automatic. Every row from this point forward follows the same rule: work the opposite stitch from what you see. The stitches on the needle will always tell you whether to knit or purl next. You do not need to count or memorize anything — just look at each stitch and do the opposite of what it appears to be.
Continue working rows until your piece reaches the length you want. Seed stitch grows slowly because the knit-purl combination creates density, so expect it to take longer than stockinette stitch (knit every row) to reach the same height.
Recognizing and fixing common mistakes
The most common error is accidentally working two knits or two purls in a row, which breaks the pattern and creates a line of stockinette running through the seed stitch. If you notice this within a few rows, you can drop back and fix it, but if you catch it several rows later, it is usually easier to keep going — the mistake will be small enough to blend in once the piece is finished and blocked.
If your pattern starts to shift sideways instead of forming vertical columns, you likely cast on an odd number of stitches. This is not a disaster; the pattern will still work and look fine, just slightly diagonal. If you want perfect vertical alignment, you can rip back to the cast-on and start over with an even number.
Tension in seed stitch can look loose compared to stockinette because the alternating knit-purl creates more texture. This is the correct appearance. If your seed stitch looks too loose, you may be pulling too hard between stitches. Relax slightly and let the yarn flow naturally between the needle and your working yarn.
Binding off seed stitch
Bind off using your normal method — most knitters use the standard bind-off where you knit two stitches, pass the first over the second, and repeat. Some knitters prefer to bind off in pattern (knitting the knits and purling the purls as they bind off), which creates a slightly more elastic edge, but either method works.
Seed stitch edges are naturally stable because the alternating stitches prevent curling, so you do not need a special bind-off technique. A standard bind-off will finish the piece cleanly.
When to use seed stitch in your projects
Seed stitch works well for scarves, blankets, and dishcloths because it is reversible and looks good on both sides. It also makes an excellent border for garments — a few rows of seed stitch around the edges of a sweater or cardigan prevents curling and adds visual interest without requiring a separate ribbed edging.
The stitch is denser than stockinette, so it uses more yarn for the same finished size. If you are working from a pattern that calls for stockinette and you want to substitute seed stitch, expect to need more yardage and plan for a slightly smaller finished piece if you use the same amount of yarn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use seed stitch with circular needles?
Yes. On circular needles, you work in rounds instead of rows. For seed stitch in the round, knit one stitch, purl one stitch all the way around. On the next round, purl where you knitted and knit where you purled, just as you would on straight needles. The pattern works the same way.
What if I drop a stitch in seed stitch?
Pick it up with a crochet hook the same way you would in any stitch pattern. Because seed stitch alternates knit and purl, the dropped stitch will show you which type it should be — if it looks like a V, it is a knit; if it looks like a bump, it is a purl. Work it back up using the correct stitch type.
Does seed stitch work with thick yarn?
Yes, but the texture becomes less defined. Thicker yarn creates larger stitches, so the bumpy texture of seed stitch is less visible. Seed stitch looks best with worsted weight or lighter yarn where the individual stitches are small enough to show the pattern clearly.
How do I count rows in seed stitch?
Count the bumps on the left or right edge of your work. Each bump represents two rows of seed stitch. Alternatively, place a stitch marker every 10 rows so you can track your progress without counting from the beginning each time.