The Four Main Ways to Increase a Stitch

An increase in knitting means you add a new stitch to your needle, making your fabric wider. The four most common methods are the yarn over, the knit front and back, the lifted increase, and the make one. Each one creates a slightly different look and sits in a different place on your fabric. The yarn over is the easiest to spot — it leaves a visible hole. The knit front and back is the fastest but can look bumpy. The lifted increase and make one are nearly invisible and are what you use when you want the increase to blend in.

Which method you choose depends on the pattern you are following and whether you want the increase to show or disappear into the fabric. Most patterns will tell you which one to use. If a pattern just says "increase one stitch," it usually means the knit front and back. If it says "yarn over," that is specific. If it says "M1" or "make one," that is the lifted increase.

Key Takeaways

  • The yarn over is the easiest increase and creates a decorative hole; you straightforward wrap the yarn around the needle without knitting a stitch.
  • The knit front and back increase is fast and invisible from a distance but can leave a small bump on the right side of your fabric.
  • The lifted increase and make one are nearly invisible and are used in shaping when you do not want the increase to show.
  • Most knitting patterns will specify which increase method to use, so always check the pattern instructions before you start.

The Yarn Over: The Visible Increase

A yarn over is the simplest increase to perform and the only one that intentionally creates a hole in your fabric. It is done by wrapping the working yarn around the needle without knitting a stitch. The hole it leaves is decorative and is often used in lace patterns, shawls, and openwork designs.

To do a yarn over when you are about to knit a stitch, bring the yarn to the front of your work between the needles, then knit the next stitch as normal. The yarn is now wrapped around the needle, and when you knit the next row, that wrap becomes a new stitch. If you are about to purl, the yarn is already at the front, so you straightforward purl the next stitch — the wrap happens automatically. The yarn over adds one stitch and creates one hole.

The Knit Front and Back: The Fastest Increase

The knit front and back increase, often written as KFB in patterns, is the quickest way to add a stitch. You knit into the same stitch twice — once through the front loop and once through the back loop — before slipping it off the needle. This creates two stitches where there was one.

Insert your right needle through the stitch on the left needle from front to back, knit it, and leave the stitch on the left needle. Now insert the right needle through the same stitch from back to front (going the opposite direction), knit it, and then slip the stitch off the left needle. You now have two stitches on the right needle. The increase sits directly on top of the stitch below it and can create a small bump or bar on the right side of your work. This is why it is often used on edges or in places where the bump will not be visible.

The Lifted Increase: Nearly Invisible Shaping

The lifted increase is worked by picking up a stitch from the row below and knitting it. This method is nearly invisible because the new stitch comes from the fabric itself rather than being created on top of it. It is often used in fitted garments where you want shaping to blend in.

To do a lifted increase on the right side of your work, insert the right needle under the left leg of the stitch one row below the stitch on your left needle, from left to right. Knit this picked-up stitch. Then knit the stitch on the left needle as normal. You now have two stitches, and the increase is barely visible. The lifted increase can also be done on the left side of your work by picking up the right leg of the stitch instead. This is useful when you are increasing on both sides of a piece and want the increases to mirror each other.

The Make One: The Invisible Increase

The make one increase, written as M1 in patterns, is done by picking up the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knitting it. This creates a new stitch without disturbing the stitches on either side. It is the most invisible increase and is the standard choice in fitted shaping.

To do a make one, insert the left needle under the horizontal strand between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch, from front to back. Then insert the right needle through the loop on the left needle and knit it. The make one can also be twisted — by inserting the left needle from back to front instead — which tightens the new stitch and prevents small holes. Most patterns will specify M1 or M1L (make one left) or M1R (make one right) depending on which direction you pick up the strand. The direction affects which way the new stitch leans, which matters when you are increasing on both sides of a garment and want the shaping to look balanced.

When to Use Each Increase in Your Projects

The yarn over is used when you want the hole to show — in lace, in decorative shawls, and in openwork garments. It is also used in some stitch patterns where the hole is part of the design. If a pattern calls for a yarn over, use it exactly as written.

The knit front and back is the default increase when a pattern just says "increase one stitch" without specifying a method. It is fast and works well on edges, in ribbing, and in places where the small bump will not be seen. It is less common in fitted garments because the bump can show.

The lifted increase and make one are used in fitted shaping — in sweater sleeves, waistlines, and anywhere you want the increase to be invisible. The make one is slightly more invisible than the lifted increase and is the industry standard. If you are working a garment pattern and the shaping matters to the fit, the pattern will specify which increase to use.

Common Mistakes When Increasing

The most common mistake is not leaving the stitch on the needle when you need to. In the knit front and back, you must knit the stitch twice before slipping it off. If you slip it off after the first knit, you have not created an increase. In the lifted increase and make one, you must pick up the strand cleanly or the new stitch will be loose or uneven.

Another mistake is using the wrong increase for the pattern. If a pattern specifies M1 and you use a knit front and back instead, the shaping will not look right and the garment may not fit. Always read the pattern notes at the beginning to see which increases are used and why. If a pattern does not specify, the knit front and back is the safe choice.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1 and KFB?

M1 (make one) picks up the strand between two stitches and is nearly invisible. KFB (knit front and back) knits the same stitch twice and creates a small bump. M1 is used in fitted shaping; KFB is faster and used on edges or when the bump will not show.

Can I use a yarn over for shaping instead of make one?

No. A yarn over creates a hole and is decorative. Make one creates a new stitch without a hole. If you use a yarn over where make one is called for, your fabric will have unintended holes and the shaping will not work correctly.

Why does my knit front and back increase look bumpy?

The KFB creates a small bar or bump on the right side of the fabric because the new stitch sits directly on top of the old one. This is normal. If you do not want to see the bump, use it on edges or use a make one or lifted increase instead.

Do I need to twist the make one increase?

Twisting the make one (by picking up the strand from the opposite direction) prevents small holes and tightens the new stitch. Most patterns do not specify, so either way works. Twisted make ones look slightly neater and are worth learning if you make fitted garments often.

What if my pattern does not say which increase to use?

If a pattern just says "increase one stitch" without specifying the method, use the knit front and back. It is the standard default increase. If the pattern is for a fitted garment and the shaping matters, the pattern should specify — if it does not, contact the pattern designer or check the pattern notes.