The most common ways to add stitches

Increasing means creating new stitches on your needle while you knit, and you have several methods to choose from depending on where you need the new stitch and how visible you want it to be. The most straightforward method is the knit front and back (KFB): you knit into the front loop of a stitch as normal, then before dropping it off the needle, knit into the back loop of the same stitch. This creates two stitches from one and leaves a small bump on your fabric.

Another common choice is the yarn over (YO), where you straightforward wrap your working yarn around the needle without knitting a stitch. This creates a new stitch and leaves a deliberate hole in the fabric — useful for lace patterns or when you want the increase to be decorative rather than invisible. Yarn overs are fast and create almost no bulk.

The make one (M1) increase is less visible than KFB because it uses the horizontal strand between two stitches rather than splitting an existing stitch. You lift the strand onto your needle and knit into it, twisting it slightly to close the gap. This method works well when you need increases that blend into the fabric, such as in fitted garments.

Key Takeaways

  • Knit front and back (KFB) is the easiest increase to learn and creates a small visible bump that works well in textured patterns.
  • Yarn overs create a hole and are the fastest increase method, making them standard in lace and decorative knitting.
  • Make one (M1) increases are nearly invisible because they use the strand between stitches rather than splitting an existing stitch.
  • The increase method you choose depends on where it sits in your pattern and whether you want it to show or disappear into the fabric.
  • Increases always happen on a knit row unless your pattern specifies otherwise, and you work them at the exact stitch your pattern names.

When to use each increase method

Knit front and back works best in textured or patterned knitting where a small bump blends in or adds visual interest. You will see it used in ribbed sweaters, cables, and any fabric where the texture already varies. It is also the fastest to execute once you develop the hand motion, which makes it popular for projects where speed matters.

Yarn overs belong in lace, openwork, and any pattern where the hole is intentional. They are also the only increase that does not add bulk, so if you are working with thick yarn or need a smooth fabric edge, a yarn over is your choice. Many shawl patterns and decorative borders rely on yarn overs because they create the characteristic lacy look.

Make one increases are the choice for fitted garments — sweater sleeves, raglan increases, and anywhere you need the increase to vanish into the background. Because it uses the strand between stitches, it does not create a visible bump or hole, and the fabric looks as though it grew naturally. This method takes slightly longer to execute than KFB but the result is worth it in pieces where fit matters.

How to execute knit front and back

Insert your right needle into the front loop of the stitch you want to increase, exactly as if you were knitting it normally. Wrap your yarn and pull the loop through, but do not drop the stitch off your left needle yet. Your right needle now holds one new stitch.

While the original stitch is still on your left needle, insert your right needle into the back loop of that same stitch — the loop that faces away from you. Wrap your yarn again and pull through, then drop the stitch off your left needle. You now have two stitches on your right needle where you had one, and the increase is complete. The small bump sits on the right side of your fabric.

How to execute yarn over

A yarn over is straightforward wrapping your working yarn around the needle without knitting a stitch. If the stitch before your yarn over was a knit stitch, bring your yarn to the front of your work (as if you were about to purl), then take it over the needle to the back. The next stitch you knit will find the yarn over in place.

If the stitch before your yarn over was a purl stitch, your yarn is already at the front. Take it over the needle to the back and then to the front again before you purl the next stitch. The exact path depends on what stitches surround it, but the principle is always the same: wrap the yarn around the needle without knitting into a stitch. Your pattern will tell you exactly when and where to work yarn overs.

How to execute make one

Locate the horizontal strand that runs between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch on your left needle. Insert your left needle from front to back under this strand, lifting it onto your needle. You now have a new loop on your left needle.

Knit into this loop, but twist it slightly as you do — insert your needle from back to front instead of front to back. This twist closes the gap that would otherwise appear. Drop the strand off your left needle. The increase is complete and nearly invisible because you used existing yarn rather than creating a new stitch from nothing.

Reading your pattern for increases

Knitting patterns use abbreviations to tell you which increase to use. KFB means knit front and back. YO means yarn over. M1 or M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right) refer to make one increases, with the direction indicating which way the stitch leans. Your pattern will also tell you exactly which stitch to work the increase into — often something like "K2, M1, K3" meaning knit two stitches, work a make one increase, then knit three more.

Always work increases on the row your pattern specifies. Most increases happen on knit rows, but some patterns call for them on purl rows. If you are unsure, check whether your pattern has a key or legend that explains its abbreviations — nearly all printed and online patterns include one.

Increases at the edge versus in the middle

Increases at the edges of your work (such as for sleeve shaping) are often worked one or two stitches in from the edge so the increase sits inside a selvage stitch. This keeps the edge neat and makes seaming easier later. Your pattern will specify the exact placement — usually something like "K1, M1, knit to last stitch, K1" which keeps one stitch on each edge untouched.

Increases in the middle of your fabric, such as for lace or decorative shaping, sit exactly where your pattern places them. These are often spaced evenly across a row to create a balanced look. If you are increasing multiple times on one row, count your stitches before and after to make sure you added the right number.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1L and M1R?

M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right) refer to the direction the new stitch leans. M1L leans to the left and M1R leans to the right. When you pair them on opposite sides of a piece (such as for raglan shaping), they create a balanced, symmetrical look. Your pattern will tell you which one to use in each location.

Can I use any increase method anywhere in my pattern?

Not always. Yarn overs create holes, so they only work in patterns where holes are wanted. Knit front and back creates a visible bump, so it works best in textured knitting. Make one is invisible and works anywhere, but some patterns specifically call for a different method for design reasons. Always follow your pattern's increase instructions.

Do I count the new stitch when I increase?

Yes. When you increase, you add one stitch to your total count. If your pattern says to increase four times across a row of 20 stitches, you will have 24 stitches at the end of that row. Count your stitches after each increase row to catch mistakes early.

What if I accidentally skip an increase?

If you notice the mistake on the same row, drop back to that stitch, work the increase, and pick up the stitches again. If you do not notice until later, you can often work a make one increase on the next row in the same column to catch up, though your pattern may need adjustment. It is easier to count stitches at the end of each row and fix mistakes when ready.

Why does my yarn over look loose?

Yarn overs often look loose on the row they are created because the new stitch is just a wrapped loop. This tightens up as you knit the next row and the tension evens out. If it still looks loose after a few rows, you may be wrapping too loosely — try wrapping the yarn more snugly around the needle.