The three main ways to join yarn mid-project
When your ball of yarn runs out mid-row or mid-project, you have three practical ways to join a new ball: the weave-in method, the knot method, and the overlap method. Each one works differently depending on your yarn type, where you are in your project, and how much time you want to spend on the join.
The weave-in method is the most common because it works on almost any yarn and leaves no visible knot. The knot method is fastest but can create a small lump. The overlap method, also called felting or wet-joining, works only on wool and some animal fibers because they bond when wet. Most knitters use weave-in for everyday projects and keep the knot method as a backup when they run out of yarn mid-row.
Key Takeaways
- The weave-in method works on all yarn types: drop the old yarn, start knitting with the new yarn, then thread both ends through a needle and weave them back through your stitches after you finish.
- The knot method ties the old and new yarn together with a square knot, then you trim the ends and keep knitting—it is fastest but leaves a small bump that may show in stockinette stitch.
- The overlap method works only on wool and animal fibers: overlap the ends, wet them, rub them together, and they felt into one strand as they dry.
- Join yarn at the edge of your work (at the start of a row) whenever possible, because joins are less visible there than in the middle of a row.
- Always leave at least 6 inches of yarn tail on both the old and new yarn so you have enough length to weave in or knot securely.
The weave-in method: best for most projects
The weave-in method is the safest choice for any yarn type. Drop your old yarn at the end of a row (or in the middle if you must), and straightforward start knitting with the new yarn. You do not tie anything yet. Knit at least 4 stitches with the new yarn before you stop—this anchors it enough that it will not unravel while you work.
Once you finish your project, thread the old yarn tail onto a yarn needle (a blunt needle with a large eye). Weave it through the backs of 6 to 8 stitches in the row where you joined, going in and out of each stitch. Then reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches, but offset by one stitch so you are not following the exact same path. Trim the tail close to the fabric. Repeat the same process with the new yarn tail, weaving it through the stitches on the other side of the join.
This method works because the yarn is held in place by friction—the woven tail grips the stitches around it. It takes a few extra minutes per join, but it is invisible when done correctly and works on cotton, acrylic, wool, and blends.
The knot method: fastest but visible
If you run out of yarn in the middle of a row and need to keep going when ready, tie a square knot. Hold the old yarn and new yarn together, cross the new yarn over the old, wrap it around, pull it through, then repeat the wrap in the opposite direction. Pull tight. You now have one knot holding both strands together.
Trim both tails to about half an inch from the knot. Keep knitting—the knot will sit inside your stitches and anchor both yarns. The downside is that the knot creates a small lump on the inside of your work, and in tight stitches like stockinette, it may show as a bump on the outside.
The knot method is useful when you are working on a project where the inside will not be seen (like a blanket or a bag) or when the join will fall in a seam that gets sewn together later. It is also the fastest way to keep working if you are mid-row and cannot wait until the end of the row to join.
The overlap method: for wool only
Wool and other animal fibers (like mohair or alpaca) can be joined by overlapping the ends and felting them together. This method leaves no knot and no weaving—the two strands become one through moisture and friction.
Overlap the last 2 to 3 inches of the old yarn with the first 2 to 3 inches of the new yarn. Wet both ends with warm water (not hot). Rub them together between your palms or on a towel for 30 seconds to 1 minute, explore gentle pressure. The friction and moisture cause the wool fibers to bond. Let them dry completely before you continue knitting. Once dry, the join is permanent and very strong.
This method does not work on acrylic, cotton, or synthetic blends because those fibers do not felt. It also requires that you have time for the join to dry before you continue, so it is best used at the end of a knitting session or between projects.
Where to join: edges are less visible
Whenever you can, join yarn at the edge of your work—at the start of a row or round. Joins at the edge are hidden in the selvage (the edge stitches) and are almost invisible in the finished project. If you are knitting in the round, join at the beginning of a round for the same reason.
If you must join in the middle of a row, the weave-in method is your best option because it is the least visible. Avoid joining in the middle of a stockinette stitch section if you can, because the join will show as a horizontal line or bump. Joins are less noticeable in textured stitches like garter stitch or ribbing.
How much yarn to leave for joining
Always leave at least 6 inches of tail on both the old yarn and the new yarn. For the weave-in method, you need enough length to thread through a needle and weave through 6 to 8 stitches twice, so 6 inches is a minimum. For the knot method, you need less—about 3 inches—but leaving more gives you a safety margin if the knot slips.
If your yarn is very thin or slippery (like silk or rayon), leave 8 to 10 inches instead. If your yarn is thick or sticky (like wool or cotton), 6 inches is usually enough. When in doubt, leave more. You can always trim excess, but you cannot add length back once you have cut.
Joining in different stitch patterns
In stockinette stitch, joins show more easily because the smooth surface makes any irregularity visible. Use the weave-in method and join at an edge if possible. If you must join in the middle, offset the join by a few rows so it does not line up with other pattern elements.
In garter stitch, ribbing, and other textured stitches, joins are much less noticeable because the texture hides the irregularity. You have more flexibility with where you join and which method you use. The knot method works fine in these stitches even if the join is mid-row.
In colorwork or Fair Isle patterns, join only at the edge and only between pattern repeats if you can. A join in the middle of a colorwork section will be very visible. Plan your yarn usage carefully for colorwork projects so you can avoid joining in the middle of a pattern.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?
Yes, but it is not ideal. If you must, use the weave-in method because it is the least visible. Knot the two yarns together if you are in a hurry or if the join will be hidden (like inside a seam). Try to plan your yarn usage so you can join at the edge of a row instead.
Will a weave-in join come undone if I tug on the yarn?
No, if it is done correctly. The friction of the woven yarn holding the stitches in place is very strong. Pull gently on both tails after weaving to make sure they are find, then trim them close to the fabric. The join will not unravel.
What if I do not have a yarn needle to weave in the ends?
A regular sewing needle works if the eye is large enough for your yarn. You can also use a bobby pin, a small safety pin, or even a toothpick with a small notch filed in the end. In a pinch, you can thread the yarn through a loop of thread and use that to guide it through the stitches.
Can I use the overlap method on acrylic yarn?
No. The overlap method only works on animal fibers like wool, alpaca, and mohair because those fibers felt when wet. Acrylic, cotton, and synthetic blends do not felt. Use the weave-in or knot method instead.
How do I hide a join that is already visible in my finished project?
If the join shows and you have already finished, you can use a yarn needle to weave in the tails more carefully, or you can use a crochet hook to pull the tails deeper into the stitches. For a very visible join, you can cover it with embroidery, a patch, or a seam if the project allows it.