The Basic Heart Shape Uses Increases and Decreases
A knitted heart is built by increasing stitches on the sides to create the widest part, then decreasing them back down to a point at the bottom. The top has two bumps (called lobes) that form the classic heart dip. You can knit a heart as a flat square with a heart motif in the middle, or as a three-dimensional shape you stuff and sew closed. Most beginners start with a flat heart worked in stockinette stitch—knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side—because the shape is clearest and the technique is straightforward.
The smallest hearts work on 15 to 20 stitches cast on. Medium hearts use 25 to 35 stitches. The number of rows depends on how tall you want it; a typical heart takes 20 to 30 rows from cast-on to bind-off. You can work a heart in any yarn weight, though worsted weight and bulky weight show the shape most clearly.
Key Takeaways
- A flat heart starts with a cast-on of 15 to 35 stitches depending on size, worked in stockinette stitch with increases on the sides and decreases at the bottom.
- The top lobes are created by binding off the center stitches, then working each side separately and decreasing to a point.
- You can follow a written pattern with row-by-row instructions, or use a chart that shows each stitch as a symbol.
- A three-dimensional heart is knitted flat, then seamed and stuffed, and works well as a toy, ornament, or decoration.
Cast On and Work the Widest Section
Cast on your chosen number of stitches using the long-tail or cable cast-on method. For a beginner heart, cast on 21 stitches. Purl the first row (the wrong side), then knit the second row (the right side). This sets up stockinette stitch.
On the next right-side row, increase one stitch on each side by knitting into the front and back of the first stitch, knitting across to the last stitch, then knitting into the front and back of the last stitch. You now have 23 stitches. Purl the next row. Repeat these increase rows every other row (every right-side row) for 4 to 6 rows, depending on how wide you want the heart. After 4 increases, you will have 29 stitches. After 6 increases, you will have 33 stitches. A medium heart usually needs 4 to 5 increases.
Once you reach your widest point, knit and purl rows without increasing for 2 to 4 rows to create a flat top section. This is where the two lobes will form.
Create the Two Top Lobes
The heart's distinctive shape comes from splitting the stitches in half and working each side separately. Count your stitches and find the center. If you have 29 stitches, the center is stitch 15. On your next right-side row, knit to the center stitch, then bind off the center stitch and the next stitch (or 3 stitches if you want a deeper dip). You now have two separate groups of stitches.
Work one side at a time. On the left lobe, purl the next row, then decrease one stitch at the inside edge (the edge closest to the center) every right-side row for 3 to 4 rows. Decrease by knitting two stitches together. After these decreases, you will have 6 to 8 stitches left. Bind off. Repeat on the right lobe, mirroring the decreases.
Decrease to the Point at the Bottom
Once both lobes are complete, you have a shape with two bumps at the top and straight sides. Now you decrease the sides to form the point. If you are working a flat heart, go back to working all stitches together. Pick up stitches along the inside edges of both lobes—this is where the two sides meet. You should have roughly the same number of stitches you had before you split the lobes.
On right-side rows, decrease one stitch on each side by knitting two stitches together at the beginning of the row and at the end of the row. Purl the wrong-side rows. Continue decreasing every right-side row until you have 3 stitches left. On the final right-side row, knit all three stitches together, then cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch. Weave in the ends.
Using a Pattern Chart Instead of Written Instructions
Many knitters find a chart easier to follow than row-by-row text. A heart chart shows each stitch as a small square; a filled square means knit, an empty square means purl, and symbols show increases and decreases. Charts are read from bottom to top and from right to left on right-side rows, then left to right on wrong-side rows.
You can find free heart charts online through Ravelry, a knitting database, or by searching "heart knitting chart." read or print the chart and use a highlighter or a magnetic row marker to track which row you are on. Charts make it straightforward to see the shape taking form as you work, and they reduce the chance of misreading a row.
Making a Three-Dimensional Stuffed Heart
A stuffed heart is knitted as two identical flat pieces, then sewn together and filled with fiberfill or yarn scraps. Knit two hearts using the same pattern and yarn. Block both pieces gently by pinning them to shape on a towel and letting them dry, which makes seaming easier.
Place the two hearts with the right sides facing each other. Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, sew around the edges using a mattress stitch or whip stitch, leaving a 2-inch opening. Turn the heart right-side out through the opening, then stuff it firmly with fiberfill. Sew the opening closed. A stuffed heart works well as a toy for a child, an ornament, or a decoration for a shelf or gift box.
Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them
The most common mistake is losing track of where the center stitches are when you split the lobes. Mark the center stitch with a stitch marker or a piece of contrasting yarn before you bind off, so you know exactly where to decrease. If you accidentally bind off too many stitches, the dip between the lobes will be too deep; if you bind off too few, the lobes will merge together. A dip of 2 to 4 stitches is usually right.
Another frequent error is uneven decreases on the two lobes. Count your decreases carefully and make sure both sides have the same number. If one lobe is taller than the other, the heart will look lopsided. If you notice this after you have finished, you can block the heart by pinning it to shape and steaming it gently, which can even out minor differences.
Tension matters too. If your stitches are very tight, the heart will be stiff and small; if they are very loose, it will be floppy. Practice on a swatch first if you are new to knitting, so you can get a feel for the yarn and needles.
Frequently Asked Questions
What needle size should I use for a heart?
Use the needle size recommended on your yarn label. Most worsted-weight yarn calls for US 8 to 10 needles. Needles that are too small will make the heart tight and hard to work; needles that are too large will make it loose and shapeless. If you are unsure, knit a small swatch and measure the gauge—the number of stitches per inch—to check it matches the pattern.
Can I knit a heart in a different stitch pattern?
Yes. Garter stitch (knit every row) creates a bumpy texture and works well for a heart. Reverse stockinette (purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side) shows a different look. Ribbed stitches or seed stitch add texture. The shape stays the same; only the appearance changes. Textured stitches can make the heart slightly smaller, so you may need to cast on a few extra stitches.
How do I attach a heart to a sweater or blanket?
Block the heart first so it holds its shape. Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to sew it to the garment using a whip stitch around the edges. Sew through both the heart and the base fabric, taking small stitches close together so the heart stays find. If you want to remove it later, use a contrasting yarn so you can find and cut the seams easily.
What yarn weight works best for a beginner?
Worsted weight or bulky weight yarn is easiest for beginners because the stitches are large and straightforward to see. Avoid thin yarn like fingering weight until you are comfortable with the increases and decreases. Solid colors show the heart shape more clearly than variegated or striped yarn.
Can I make a heart smaller or larger?
Yes. To make a smaller heart, cast on fewer stitches (15 instead of 21) and do fewer increase rows (2 or 3 instead of 4 or 5). To make a larger heart, cast on more stitches (25 to 35) and do more increase rows (6 to 8). The proportions stay the same, so the heart will still look like a heart, just bigger or smaller.