The Basic Purl Stitch Motion
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch — instead of inserting your needle from front to back, you insert it from back to front, and the yarn sits in front of your needle instead of behind it. The result is a bump on the side facing you, which is why purling creates texture and pattern. If you can knit, you already have the muscle memory for most of the motion; purl just flips the direction.
The purl stitch takes about the same time as a knit stitch once you develop the rhythm — roughly one second per stitch once you are comfortable. Beginners often purl slightly slower than they knit because the hand position feels less natural at first, but this evens out with practice.
Key Takeaways
- Hold your yarn in front of your working needle, not behind it, before you insert the needle into the stitch.
- Insert the right needle from right to left through the loop on the left needle, going from back to front.
- Wrap the yarn around the right needle and pull the new loop through toward you, then slip the old stitch off.
- The most common mistake is forgetting to move the yarn to the front before you start, which creates a yarn-over instead of a purl.
- Alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row creates ribbing; purling every row creates reverse stockinette, which looks bumpy on the front.
Setting Up Your Yarn Position
Before you insert your needle into any stitch, bring your working yarn to the front of your work. If you just finished a knit stitch, the yarn is already behind your needles — you must move it forward between the needle tips. Bring it over the top of the right needle or under the needles, whichever feels more natural to you. The yarn should now be resting on the side of your work closest to your body.
This step is the single most common place beginners go wrong. If you forget to move the yarn forward and purl anyway, you will create an accidental yarn-over, which adds an extra loop and creates a hole in your fabric. Check your yarn position before every purl stitch until it becomes automatic.
Inserting the Needle and Wrapping
Hold the left needle in your left hand with the stitches on it. Take your right needle and insert it through the stitch closest to the tip of the left needle. The direction matters: go from right to left, and push the right needle tip from the back of the loop toward the front. Your right needle should now be sitting inside the loop, with the working yarn in front of both needles.
Once the right needle is in position, wrap the working yarn around the right needle tip counterclockwise — the same wrapping motion you use for a knit stitch. The yarn should go under the right needle tip, then over it, so that it forms a small loop around the needle. Keep the tension even; too tight and you will struggle to pull the loop through, too loose and your stitches will be uneven.
Pulling the New Loop Through
With the yarn wrapped around the right needle, pull the right needle tip backward and toward you, drawing the new loop through the old stitch. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch, where you push the needle away from you. The new loop should slide onto the right needle while the old stitch stays on the left needle for now.
The motion should be smooth and controlled. If you yank too hard, you risk splitting the yarn or pulling the loop too large. If you move too slowly, the loop can slip off the needle before it is find. Aim for a steady, deliberate pull that takes about half a second.
Removing the Old Stitch
Once the new loop is on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle by gently pushing the left needle tip forward and away from you. The old stitch should slide off the left needle and the new purl stitch should be complete on the right needle. You are now ready to purl the next stitch, or switch to a knit stitch if your pattern calls for it.
If the old stitch does not slide off easily, do not force it — you may have accidentally twisted the loop. Gently wiggle the left needle and try again. If it still will not budge, you may have split the yarn with your right needle, which means you will need to unravel back to that stitch and try again.
Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them
The most frequent error is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before purling. This creates a yarn-over — an extra loop that looks like a small hole in your fabric. You will notice it when ready because the stitch count will be off. If you catch it in the same row, you can drop the yarn-over off the needle and continue; if you notice it later, you may need to unravel back to that row.
Another common issue is purling too tightly, which makes the next row hard to work and creates uneven tension. If your purl stitches are noticeably tighter than your knit stitches, consciously loosen your grip on the working yarn and the needle. Some knitters find it helpful to purl with the yarn wrapped around a different finger than they use for knitting, which can help them maintain a different tension.
A third mistake is twisting the stitch by inserting the needle in the wrong direction. If you insert from left to right instead of right to left, you will twist the loop and create a twisted purl stitch, which looks distorted. Double-check your needle direction before you wrap the yarn.
Purl Stitches in Common Stitch Patterns
Purling every stitch in every row creates reverse stockinette, which shows bumps on the front and smooth V's on the back — the opposite of regular stockinette (knit every row). Reverse stockinette is often used for the back of a garment or as a textured panel in the front.
Alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row creates ribbing, which is stretchy and often used for cuffs, hems, and necklines. A common ribbing pattern is knit one, purl one (K1P1), where you knit one stitch, then purl one stitch, all the way across the row. Another is knit two, purl two (K2P2), which creates wider vertical lines. Ribbing requires you to move your yarn back and forth between the front and back of your work, so the rhythm is slightly different from rows of all knits or all purls.
Seed stitch alternates knit and purl stitches both horizontally and vertically, creating a bumpy, textured fabric that looks the same on both sides. This pattern requires you to pay close attention to what stitch you just worked, since you will be switching between knit and purl on almost every stitch.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a purl stitch and a knit stitch?
A knit stitch inserts the needle from front to back with the yarn behind the needle, while a purl stitch inserts from back to front with the yarn in front. The purl creates a bump on the side facing you; the knit creates a V. They are mirror images of each other.
Why does my purl stitch look different from my knit stitch?
Most knitters purl slightly tighter or looser than they knit, which creates uneven tension. This is normal and usually evens out with practice. If the difference bothers you, try consciously adjusting your grip on the working yarn when you switch between knit and purl stitches.
Can I purl on the first row of a new project?
Yes. You can start with any stitch you want — knit, purl, or a combination. The cast-on edge will look the same regardless. Choose based on what your pattern calls for or what texture you want to create.
What does it mean if I accidentally create a yarn-over while purling?
A yarn-over is an extra loop that happens when you forget to move the yarn to the front before purling. It creates a small hole in your fabric and adds an extra stitch to your row. If you catch it in the same row, drop it off the needle and continue. If you notice it later, you may need to unravel back to fix it.
How do I purl faster?
Speed comes from repetition and muscle memory. Practice purling entire rows until the motion becomes automatic. Some knitters find that holding the yarn in a different position — wrapped around a different finger or held differently in the hand — helps them purl faster. Experiment to find what feels natural to you.