The two main ways to knit with two colors
When you knit with two colors in the same row, you carry the unused color along the back of your work while you knit with the active color. This is called stranding or carrying. The second method, weaving, traps the unused color inside your stitches so it doesn't float loose on the back. Most colorwork patterns use one of these two techniques, and which one you choose depends on how far apart your colors sit in each row and how neat you want the back of your piece to look.
Both methods work with any yarn weight and any stitch pattern, though stranding is faster and weaving gives you a thicker, warmer fabric. The real difference is in how much slack you leave in the carried yarn and where you trap it. Once you understand the mechanics of each, you can switch between them in the same project.
Key Takeaways
- Stranding means carrying the unused color loosely across the back of your work while you knit with the other color.
- Weaving traps the unused color inside your stitches by wrapping it around your working yarn every few stitches.
- Loose strands on the back can snag fingers or create uneven tension, so keep carried yarn at the same width as your knitting.
- Weaving takes longer but produces a thicker fabric and prevents long floats from catching.
- Most colorwork patterns tell you which method to use, but you can choose based on how many stitches sit between color changes.
How stranding works and when to use it
Stranding is the simpler of the two methods. You hold both colors in your hands (or both in one hand if you prefer), knit with one color for as many stitches as the pattern calls for, then drop that color and pick up the other. The color you dropped sits unused on the back of your work, creating what's called a float. As long as the float doesn't span more than five or six stitches, it stays out of the way and doesn't snag.
The key to good stranding is keeping the carried yarn loose enough that it doesn't pucker your stitches, but not so loose that it hangs in loops. Imagine the carried yarn sitting at the same width as the stitches it passes behind—not stretched tight, not drooping. Most knitters learn this by feel after a few rows. If your tension is too tight, your fabric will bunch and curl. If it's too loose, the back will look sloppy and the carried yarn will catch on things.
Use stranding when your colors are close together—when you switch colors every few stitches. It's the standard method for Fair Isle patterns, which typically have small repeating motifs. Stranding is also faster than weaving because you're not wrapping yarn around your working yarn at every step.
How weaving works and when to use it
Weaving traps the unused color inside your stitches by wrapping it around your working yarn as you knit. On a knit stitch, you bring the unused color over your working yarn before you insert the needle, then knit normally. On a purl stitch, you bring the unused color under your working yarn. This creates a small loop of the unused color inside each stitch, so there are no long floats on the back.
Weaving takes longer because you're managing the position of the unused yarn before every stitch. It also creates a thicker, denser fabric because the woven yarn adds bulk. The back of a woven piece looks more solid and less lacy than a stranded piece. Use weaving when your colors sit far apart—when you knit more than five or six stitches in one color before switching. It's also the better choice if you're making something that will be worn close to skin, like a baby sweater, because long floats can snag on sensitive skin or catch on jewelry.
Some knitters weave every stitch, and some weave only every other stitch to keep the fabric from getting too thick. The pattern you're following will usually tell you which approach to use, but you can experiment to see what feels right for your tension and yarn.
Setting up your yarn for two-color knitting
Before you cast on, decide how you'll hold both colors. The most common method is to hold one color in each hand—typically the dominant color in your right hand and the secondary color in your left (or reversed if you're left-handed). This lets you knit with whichever color you need without picking up and dropping yarn constantly. If you're not comfortable holding two colors at once, you can hold both in one hand and let them hang at different lengths, picking them up as needed.
Some knitters use yarn bobbins—small tools that hold a length of yarn and prevent it from tangling. Bobbins are useful if you're working with very long floats or if you're using many colors in one row. For two-color work, they're optional but can help keep your tension even.
Cast on with both colors held together if your pattern calls for a two-color edge, or with just one color if you want a single-color border. Read your pattern to see which approach it specifies. Once you've cast on, you're ready to begin the first row of colorwork.
Reading a colorwork chart and following the pattern
Most two-color patterns come as a chart, not written instructions. Each square on the chart represents one stitch, and each color represents a different yarn color. The chart is read from bottom to top and right to left on the first row (because you knit from right to left), then left to right on the second row, and so on. Some charts have a key that tells you which color is which.
Before you start, count the stitches in the pattern repeat and make sure your cast-on number is a multiple of that repeat. If the pattern repeat is 8 stitches wide and you've cast on 40 stitches, you can fit the pattern 5 times across. Mark the beginning and end of each repeat with stitch markers so you don't lose your place.
As you knit each row, look at the chart and knit the color shown in each square. When the color changes, switch to the other yarn. Keep your tension even and your floats loose. Many knitters find it helpful to use a row counter or a piece of paper under the chart row they're working on, so they don't accidentally skip a row.
Fixing common mistakes in two-color knitting
The most common problem is uneven tension—some stitches are tight and some are loose, making the fabric look bumpy. This usually happens when you switch colors and the new yarn is pulled too tight. The fix is to knit the first stitch or two with the new color a little looser than usual, then settle into your normal tension. Some knitters deliberately knit the first stitch of a color change through the back loop to tighten it up.
Another frequent issue is floats that are too long. If you've stranded a color across more than six stitches and it's hanging loose on the back, you can weave it in on the next row, or you can catch it by wrapping it around your working yarn every few stitches. This is called catching a float and it's a quick fix if you realize mid-row that a float is getting too long.
If you've twisted your colors around each other too many times, your fabric will spiral and distort. To avoid this, always bring the new color under the old color when you switch (or always over—pick one and stick with it). This keeps the yarns from wrapping around each other and creating tension problems.
Finishing the edges and weaving in ends
Two-color pieces often have messy edges because you're switching colors at the edge stitches. To keep the edge neat, some knitters slip the first stitch of each row instead of knitting it. This creates a chain edge that looks finished without extra work. Other patterns call for a one-stitch border in a single color on each side, which frames the colorwork and hides the color switches.
When you're done knitting, you'll have many yarn ends to weave in—at least two per color change, plus the cast-on and bind-off tails. Use a tapestry needle and weave each end through the back of stitches in the same color for about an inch. On a stranded piece, you can weave the ends through the floats on the back, which hides them completely. On a woven piece, weave them through the body of the stitches. Trim the ends close to the fabric once they're find.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use stranding if my colors are far apart?
You can, but the float will be long and loose on the back, and it may snag. If you have more than six stitches between color changes, weaving is the better choice because it traps the unused yarn inside the stitches instead of leaving it floating.
Do I have to hold one color in each hand?
No. You can hold both colors in one hand and pick them up as needed, or use bobbins to keep them organized. Holding one in each hand is faster once you get used to it, but it's not required. Use whatever method feels comfortable for your hands.
What happens if I drop a color in the middle of a row?
Pick it back up and keep knitting. If you've dropped it for more than a few stitches, you may have a gap or a loose section, but you can tighten it by adjusting the tension of the stitches on either side. If the mistake is very visible, you can unravel back to that point and redo the row.
Is two-color knitting harder than regular knitting?
It requires more attention because you're managing two yarns instead of one, but the actual stitches are the same. Most knitters find it becomes automatic after a few rows. Start with a straightforward pattern that has large blocks of color, then move to smaller, more complex motifs once you're comfortable.
How do I keep my floats from showing through on the front?
Keep them loose and short. Floats that are too tight will pull the fabric and show through. Floats that are too long will sag. Aim for floats that sit at the same width as your knitting, and weave in any float longer than six stitches to keep it from sagging.