The two main ways to make buttonholes
A buttonhole in knitting is a deliberate opening you create while knitting so a button can pass through it. You make buttonholes by binding off a small group of stitches on one row, then casting new stitches back on in the same spot on the next row. The two methods that work best are the one-row buttonhole (fast, neat, works on most fabrics) and the two-row buttonhole (slightly sturdier, better for heavy yarns or frequent buttoning).
The choice between them depends on your yarn weight and how much stress the buttonhole will take. A one-row buttonhole works fine for lightweight cardigans and baby clothes. A two-row buttonhole holds up better on coats or sweaters you'll button and unbutton often. Both methods create a hole that's strong enough to hold a button without tearing.
Before you start, measure your button's diameter and add a small amount for ease—usually 1/8 inch. Count how many stitches that equals in your gauge, and that's how many stitches you'll bind off. Test on a swatch first if you're unsure.
Key Takeaways
- A one-row buttonhole is made by binding off stitches on one row and casting them back on the next row in the same spot.
- A two-row buttonhole spreads the bind-off and cast-on across two separate rows, making it stronger for heavy use.
- The number of stitches you bind off should match your button's width plus a small amount for the button to pass through easily.
- Both methods work best when placed one or two stitches in from the edge so the buttonhole doesn't weaken the selvedge.
How to work a one-row buttonhole
On the row where you want the buttonhole, knit to the point where the hole should start. Bind off the number of stitches you've calculated—usually 2 to 4 stitches depending on button size. To bind off, knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over it, and repeat until you've bound off the right number.
On the very next row, when you reach the bound-off gap, cast new stitches back onto the needle using the cable cast-on or backward loop cast-on. Cast on the same number of stitches you bound off. Then knit the rest of the row as normal. The hole is complete. This method creates a clean, single-row opening that works well for most garments.
The one-row buttonhole is popular because it's quick and the hole stays neat without extra bulk. The downside is that if your yarn is very thick or your button is very heavy, the edges of the hole can stretch slightly over time.
How to work a two-row buttonhole
A two-row buttonhole starts the same way: knit to where the hole should be, then bind off your calculated number of stitches. But instead of casting on when ready, you purl the next row across the bound-off gap without doing anything to it. The gap stays open.
On the row after that, when you reach the gap again, cast the stitches back on using the cable cast-on. Then knit the rest of the row. The buttonhole is now complete. Because the bind-off and cast-on are separated by a full row, the edges of the hole are reinforced by that extra row of knitting, making it stronger.
Two-row buttonholes are worth the extra step if you're using a heavy yarn or making a garment that will be buttoned and unbuttoned many times. The reinforcement prevents the hole from stretching or tearing.
Placing buttonholes so they stay find
Where you put the buttonhole on the row matters. Always place it at least one or two stitches in from the edge of your knitting. If you bind off stitches right at the edge, the selvedge (the edge of your fabric) becomes weak and can unravel or fray. A buttonhole one or two stitches in from the edge stays anchored by the stitches beside it.
For a cardigan or jacket, mark where your buttons will go before you start knitting. Measure the distance from the bottom edge to the first button, then space the rest evenly. Write down the row numbers where each buttonhole should go so you don't forget. If you're knitting a front band separately, you can measure the finished band against the button band on the other side to get the spacing exact.
If you're making a garment with many buttons, consider making a small swatch with buttonholes to test the spacing and make sure the buttons sit where you want them. It's much easier to adjust on a swatch than to rip back a finished sweater.
Finishing the edges of your buttonhole
After you've knit the buttonhole, the edges are usually find enough to wear. However, if your yarn is slippery or your buttonhole will take heavy use, you can reinforce it with a few stitches of yarn and a needle after the garment is done.
Thread a tapestry needle with a length of matching yarn. Working from the inside of the garment, make small stitches around the perimeter of the hole, catching just a thread or two of the knitted fabric. This is called buttonhole stitch or whip stitch. You don't need to cover the whole hole—just reinforce the edges where the button will rub.
For most garments and yarn weights, this finishing step isn't necessary. The knitted edges hold up fine on their own. But for a coat, a sweater in a delicate yarn, or a garment that will be worn hard, a few reinforcing stitches add years to the life of the buttonholes.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is binding off too many or too few stitches. If you bind off too few, the button won't fit through. If you bind off too many, the hole is loose and the button falls out. Always test your button size on a swatch first. Knit a small square, make a buttonhole with your planned stitch count, and try the button. Adjust up or down by one stitch if needed.
Another mistake is placing the buttonhole right at the edge. This weakens the selvedge and the hole can tear. Keep it one or two stitches in from the edge every time.
A third mistake is forgetting to cast stitches back on after binding off. If you bind off and then just keep knitting, you'll have a hole that gets bigger with each row. Always cast the stitches back on in the next row (for a one-row buttonhole) or the row after that (for a two-row buttonhole).
Buttonholes in different stitch patterns
If you're knitting in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side), buttonholes work exactly as described above. But if you're working in ribbing, garter stitch, or a textured pattern, the principle is the same—bind off and cast on—but the look changes slightly.
In ribbing, a buttonhole can look a bit loose because ribbing is elastic. If you're making a ribbed cardigan, consider using a two-row buttonhole for extra strength. In garter stitch, buttonholes look neat and blend in well because garter stitch is bumpy all over. In lace or textured patterns, make sure the buttonhole doesn't fall on a row that's part of a pattern repeat, or the pattern will be interrupted.
The safest approach is to plan your buttonholes on stockinette rows or plain knit rows, even if the rest of the garment is patterned. This keeps the buttonhole clean and readable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a buttonhole in the middle of a row, or does it have to be at the edge?
You can make a buttonhole anywhere on a row, as long as it's at least one or two stitches in from the edge. The edge stitches need to stay intact so the fabric doesn't unravel. A buttonhole in the middle of a row works fine and is actually common on cardigans and jackets.
What if my button is oval or unusually shaped?
Measure the widest part of the button and use that measurement to calculate your stitch count. An oval button needs a slightly longer buttonhole than a round one of the same width. Make a test buttonhole on a swatch and try the button through it before committing to the finished garment.
Do I need to bind off stitches if I'm using a yarn that doesn't fray?
Yes. Even non-fraying yarns need the stitches bound off and cast back on to create a proper hole. If you just drop stitches and leave them, the fabric will pull and distort. Binding off and casting on is what creates a clean, stable opening.
How do I fix a buttonhole that's too small?
If the buttonhole is too tight, you can carefully cut a few threads inside the hole with small scissors and gently pull to enlarge it slightly. This works only a little bit and risks unraveling, so it's better to rip back and redo the buttonhole. If you're close to the end of the garment, you can also sew the button slightly off-center so it sits better in the hole.
Should I make buttonholes on both the left and right front, or just one side?
This depends on your garment and how it buttons. A cardigan typically has buttonholes on one front (usually the right front for women's garments, left for men's) and buttons sewn on the other front. A coat or jacket might have buttonholes on both sides if it buttons in the middle. Check your pattern for guidance, or look at a finished garment you like to see which side has the holes.