What picking up stitches means and when you need it

Picking up stitches means using your needle and yarn to create new loops along an edge of your knitted fabric — usually along a side edge, a bound-off edge, or around a neckline. You are not unraveling anything. Instead, you are anchoring your working yarn into the existing fabric and pulling loops through to sit on your needle, ready to knit.

You pick up stitches when you want to knit perpendicular to your current work. The most common reason is adding a border, collar, or button band to a finished piece. You might also pick up stitches to add sleeves to a sweater body, or to knit a neckband after the main piece is done. Without picking up stitches, you would have to seam pieces together or start over with a new cast-on.

The edge you pick up from matters. A bound-off edge (the finished top or bottom of your knitting) is easiest because you can see each stitch clearly. A side edge (the selvage, or edge created by your row ends) is trickier because the stitches are less obvious, and you have to space your pickups evenly so the new fabric does not pucker or wave.

Key Takeaways

  • Picking up stitches means creating new loops along an existing edge of your knitted fabric using a needle and working yarn.
  • You pick up stitches when you want to knit perpendicular to your finished work, such as adding a neckband, border, or sleeve.
  • The number of stitches to pick up depends on the edge type and the pattern instructions, but for side edges you typically pick up three stitches for every four rows to avoid puckering.
  • Insert your needle under the edge stitch or between rows, wrap your yarn, and pull a loop through to the needle — one motion per stitch.
  • Pick up all stitches first, then knit them in the next row; do not knit as you pick up unless your pattern specifically says to.

How many stitches to pick up along each edge type

The number of stitches you pick up depends on which edge you are working along. Your pattern will tell you the exact number, but if you are improvising or the pattern is vague, use these guidelines.

For a bound-off edge (the cast-off top or bottom), pick up one stitch in each stitch. If your cast-off row has 40 stitches, pick up 40 new stitches. This is straightforward because each stitch is visible and distinct.

For a side edge (the selvage along your rows), the math is different. Rows are taller than stitches are wide, so if you pick up one stitch per row, your new fabric will pucker and pull. Instead, use the three-in-four rule: pick up three stitches for every four rows. If you knitted 60 rows along a side edge, pick up about 45 stitches. Count your rows first, divide by four, multiply by three, and round to the nearest whole number.

For a shaped edge (like a neckline that slopes), space your pickups as evenly as you can by eye. Distribute the stitches across the edge so no section has a gap or cluster. If the pattern says to pick up 30 stitches across a curved neckline, mark the edge into thirds with stitch markers and pick up 10 stitches in each third.

Picking up stitches along a bound-off edge

A bound-off edge is the easiest place to pick up stitches because each stitch is clearly visible. You will see a row of bumps or loops along the edge.

Hold your finished piece in your left hand with the bound-off edge facing you. Insert your working needle under the first stitch from front to back, going under both legs of the stitch if you can see them. Wrap your working yarn around the needle as if you were knitting, then pull the loop through to the front. You now have one stitch on your needle. Repeat this motion for each stitch along the edge.

Work left to right along the edge. Do not skip stitches or work into the same stitch twice. If you are picking up along the entire bound-off edge, you should end up with the same number of new stitches as the original cast-off row had.

Once all stitches are on your needle, you can knit the next row as normal. The new stitches will look like a continuation of your fabric, with no gap or hole between the old edge and the new work.

Picking up stitches along a side edge

A side edge is harder to read than a bound-off edge because the stitches run vertically and the edge is made of row ends, not individual stitches. You have to pick up between rows rather than into stitches.

Hold your finished piece with the side edge facing you. Look at the edge closely — you will see a chain-like pattern of bumps or loops running vertically. Each bump represents one row. Insert your needle under the bump (the horizontal bar between two rows), going from front to back. Wrap your yarn and pull a loop through. This creates one new stitch.

Move down one row and repeat. Work from top to bottom along the edge. Because you are picking up three stitches for every four rows, you will skip one row every four rows. For example: pick up in row 1, row 2, row 3, skip row 4, pick up in row 5, row 6, row 7, skip row 8, and so on. Distribute the skipped rows evenly so the spacing looks balanced.

If your edge is not perfectly straight or the rows are uneven, adjust by eye. It is better to pick up slightly fewer stitches and have them sit flat than to pick up too many and create waves or puckers. You can always add a stitch or two if you notice a gap as you knit the next row.

Picking up stitches around a neckline or shaped edge

A neckline or other curved edge combines bound-off sections and side sections. You will pick up stitches using both methods as you go around the curve.

Start at one shoulder seam or a marked point. Work around the neckline, picking up one stitch per stitch along any bound-off sections and three stitches per four rows along any side sections. At the corners where the edge changes direction, you may need to pick up an extra stitch or two to avoid a gap or hole.

Use stitch markers to divide the neckline into sections before you start. If you need to pick up 60 stitches around a neckline, mark the edge into four sections and aim for 15 stitches per section. This helps you space the pickups evenly and catch mistakes before you have picked up all the stitches.

Once you have picked up all stitches around the entire edge, join to work in the round (if the pattern calls for it) or turn and knit flat. The new stitches should form a smooth, even band with no gaps or loose spots.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common mistake is picking up too many stitches along a side edge. This causes the new fabric to wave or ruffle because there is too much fabric trying to fit into the space. If this happens, you can frog (unravel) the new stitches and pick up fewer, or you can decrease stitches in the first row or two of the new section to take up the excess.

Another mistake is picking up stitches inconsistently — sometimes under the edge stitch, sometimes between rows, sometimes into the stitch itself. This creates an uneven, lumpy edge. Pick a method and stick with it for the entire edge. Most knitters find it easiest to pick up under the horizontal bar between rows on a side edge, or under both legs of a stitch on a bound-off edge.

Picking up too few stitches causes gaps or holes along the edge. If you notice a gap as you knit the new section, you can pick up an extra stitch in the gap by inserting your needle under the edge and pulling a loop through, then knitting it as part of the next row. This is easier than frogging and starting over.

Twisted stitches are another issue. If your new stitches look crossed or tilted, you may have wrapped your yarn the wrong way around the needle as you picked up. Check that you are wrapping the yarn the same way every time — usually counterclockwise around the needle if you are right-handed.

Knitting the row after you pick up stitches

Once all stitches are on your needle, knit the next row as you normally would. Do not knit as you pick up stitches — pick them all up first, then knit them in a separate row. This gives you a chance to adjust any uneven spacing and makes the edge neater.

In the first row after picking up, you may notice that some stitches are looser or tighter than others. This is normal. As you knit, the tension will even out. If a stitch is very loose, you can tighten it slightly by pulling the working yarn a bit as you knit into it, but do not pull so hard that you distort the stitch.

If your pattern calls for a ribbed edge (like a neckband in knit-purl ribbing), start the ribbing in the row after you pick up. The pattern will tell you whether to knit or purl the first stitch, and you follow that pattern across the row.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I pick up stitches with a smaller needle than I used for the main piece?

Yes, and many knitters do this to make the edge tighter and neater. Use a needle one or two sizes smaller than your main needle. Pick up the stitches with the smaller needle, then switch to your main needle size for the first row of knitting. This prevents the picked-up edge from being too loose or stretchy.

What if I pick up stitches and they look twisted or wrong?

Twisted stitches usually mean you wrapped your yarn the wrong way as you pulled the loop through. Frog the row and pick up again, making sure to wrap the yarn the same way each time. If only a few stitches are twisted, you can fix them by knitting into the back of the stitch in the next row instead of the front.

Do I have to pick up stitches, or can I cast on new stitches instead?

You can cast on new stitches and seam them to the edge, but picking up stitches creates a neater, more seamless join. Casting on and seaming leaves a visible seam line and takes more time. Picking up stitches is faster and looks more professional, especially on visible edges like neckbands.

How do I pick up stitches if the edge is very uneven or has holes?

Work around the holes by skipping them and picking up in the solid fabric on either side. If the edge is very uneven, pick up slightly fewer stitches and space them as evenly as you can by eye. You can also pick up an extra stitch or two in the first row if you notice a gap forming.

What is the difference between picking up stitches and picking up and knitting?

Picking up stitches means creating loops on your needle without knitting them yet. Picking up and knitting means creating the loop and knitting it in one motion. Picking up and knitting is faster but gives you less control over spacing. Most patterns say to pick up stitches first, then knit them in the next row, so you can adjust as you go.