What a Purl Stitch Is and How It Differs from Knit
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. When you knit, the yarn sits behind the needle and you insert the needle from front to back. When you purl, the yarn sits in front of the needle and you insert the needle from back to front. The result looks different on the fabric: a knit stitch creates a smooth V-shape on the front, while a purl stitch creates a bump or ridge.
Both stitches use the same basic motion — you loop yarn around the needle and pull a new loop through — but the direction you approach the stitch changes everything about how it looks. On a flat piece of knitted fabric, the back of a knit stitch looks like a purl, and the back of a purl looks like a knit. This is why knit and purl stitches are often used together to create texture and pattern.
Key Takeaways
- A purl stitch requires the yarn to sit in front of the needle, and you insert the needle from back to front through the loop on your left needle.
- The motion is the same as a knit stitch — wrap yarn and pull through — but the direction is reversed.
- Purl stitches create a bumpy texture on the front of the fabric, while knit stitches create smooth V-shapes.
- Alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row creates ribbed patterns; alternating rows creates garter stitch texture.
Step-by-Step: How to Purl
Hold your needles the same way you do for knitting: the working needle (with stitches) in your left hand, the empty needle in your right hand. Bring the yarn to the front of your work, between the two needles. This is the first and most important step — if the yarn is in the wrong place, the stitch will not form correctly.
Insert the right needle through the loop on the left needle from right to left (back to front). The right needle should pass behind the left needle as you do this. Wrap the yarn around the right needle from right to left, going underneath and then over the top. Pull the right needle back through the loop, bringing the new loop with it. Slip the old loop off the left needle. You have completed one purl stitch.
The yarn stays in front of the needle for the entire purl stitch. If you are purling multiple stitches in a row, keep the yarn in front between each stitch. Only move the yarn to the back when you switch to a knit stitch.
Common Mistakes When Learning to Purl
The most common error is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before you start. If your yarn is in the back, you will accidentally create a knit stitch instead of a purl. Check the yarn position before you insert the needle through each loop.
Another frequent mistake is twisting the stitch as you pull the new loop through. This happens when the right needle goes through the loop at an angle instead of straight through. Keep the needles parallel and move straight through the loop. The stitch should slide off the left needle smoothly without resistance.
Some knitters also accidentally move the yarn to the back between stitches when they mean to stay in front. If you are purling an entire row, the yarn should not move. It only goes to the back when you switch to a knit stitch on the next row or later in the same row.
When Knit and Purl Stitches Work Together
Knit one row, purl one row, and repeat. This creates stockinette stitch, the most common fabric in knitting. The knit side (called the right side) shows smooth V-shapes. The purl side (called the wrong side) shows bumps. Most sweaters and fitted garments use stockinette.
Alternate knit and purl stitches within the same row — knit one, purl one, knit one, purl one — and you create ribbed fabric. Ribbed fabric stretches and hugs the body, which is why it appears at cuffs, necklines, and waistbands. The vertical lines of knit stitches alternate with vertical lines of purl stitches.
Knit every row, never purl, and you create garter stitch. This produces a bumpy, textured fabric that looks the same on both sides. Garter stitch is thicker and less stretchy than stockinette, and it does not curl at the edges.
Building Speed and Consistency
Purl stitches are slower than knit stitches for most knitters, especially when learning. This is because the yarn position changes and the needle direction is less natural for your hand. The speed difference usually disappears after you have purled several hundred stitches.
Practice purling in short sessions rather than long ones. Knit a few rows, then purl a few rows. Your hands will build muscle memory faster if you switch between the two stitches regularly. After a week or two of regular practice, purl stitches will feel as automatic as knit stitches.
If your purl stitches are looser or tighter than your knit stitches, adjust your grip slightly. Some knitters hold the yarn differently for purl than for knit, which changes the tension. Try to keep the same tension on the yarn whether you are knitting or purling. Even tension across both stitches makes the finished fabric look uniform.
Purl in Flat and Circular Knitting
In flat knitting (working back and forth on straight needles), you purl on the return rows. If you are making stockinette, you knit the right side and purl the wrong side. The pattern is straightforward: knit, purl, knit, purl.
In circular knitting (working in rounds on circular needles or double-pointed needles), you never purl if you want stockinette. You knit every round, and the right side always faces outward. This is one reason many knitters prefer circular needles for projects like hats and sweaters — you avoid purling entirely. If you do want texture in circular knitting, you purl specific stitches within a round to create pattern.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my purl stitch look twisted?
The needle is probably going through the loop at an angle instead of straight through. Insert the right needle perpendicular to the left needle, going directly from back to front through the center of the loop. Keep both needles parallel as you wrap and pull through.
Is purl stitch harder than knit stitch?
It feels harder at first because the yarn position and needle direction are reversed. After you have purled 50 to 100 stitches, the motion becomes automatic. Most knitters find purl and knit equally straightforward once they have practiced both.
What happens if I forget to bring the yarn to the front before purling?
You will create a knit stitch instead of a purl. The stitch will look smooth instead of bumpy. Check the yarn position before you insert the needle. If you make this mistake, you can usually fix it by dropping the stitch and re-doing it with the yarn in the correct place.
Can I purl on circular needles?
Yes. Purl works the same way on circular needles as on straight needles. The yarn position and needle direction do not change. However, if you are knitting in the round and want stockinette, you knit every round instead of purling.
Do I need to adjust my needle size for purl stitches?
No. The needle size stays the same whether you knit or purl. If your purl stitches are looser than your knit stitches, the issue is usually tension in how you hold the yarn, not the needles themselves.