A knitting pattern is a set of written instructions that tells you which stitches to make, in what order, and how many times to repeat them
Patterns use abbreviations and symbols to pack a lot of information into a small space. Instead of writing "knit stitch" fifty times, a pattern writes "K50". The abbreviations are standardized enough that once you learn them, you can read patterns from any source — a book, a website, or a magazine. The hardest part is not the abbreviations themselves, but understanding the structure: what the numbers mean, when to repeat a section, and how to count your rows so you know where you are.
Most patterns follow the same layout. At the top, you will find the finished size, the yarn weight needed, needle size, and how much yarn to buy. Below that is a list of abbreviations used in that specific pattern — some patterns add their own special stitches. Then comes the actual instructions, usually broken into sections like "Ribbing" or "Body" or "Sleeves". Each section tells you how many stitches to cast on and what to do with them, row by row or round by round.
Key Takeaways
- Every pattern starts with a key that explains what each abbreviation means — K is knit, P is purl, YO is yarn over, and so on.
- Numbers in brackets like [12 sts] tell you how many stitches you should have after completing that row or section.
- Asterisks and parentheses show you which stitches to repeat: *K2, P2* means knit 2, purl 2, then do that sequence again.
- Row numbers on the left edge help you track where you are, especially in longer sections where it is straightforward to lose count.
- Gauge — the number of stitches and rows per inch — must match the pattern's gauge or your finished piece will be the wrong size.
Understanding the abbreviations at the top of the pattern
Before you cast on a single stitch, read the abbreviations section. This is usually a small box or list near the beginning of the pattern. It will show you every short form used in the instructions. The most common ones appear in almost every pattern: K for knit, P for purl, YO for yarn over, K2tog for knit two together, SSK for slip slip knit. But patterns also include less common stitches, and the abbreviations section tells you exactly what they mean.
Some patterns use abbreviations that are specific to that pattern alone. For example, a pattern might define "MB" as "make bobble" and then explain what a bobble is — usually a small raised bump made by working several stitches into the same stitch and then decreasing them back down. If you skip the abbreviations section and jump straight to the instructions, you will hit "MB" and have no idea what to do. Always read the abbreviations first.
Reading row-by-row instructions and understanding repeat markers
Most patterns are written row by row. Each line tells you what to do on that row. For example: "Row 1: K5, P3, K5" means knit 5 stitches, purl 3 stitches, knit 5 stitches. Row 2 comes next, and you follow it the same way.
When a pattern wants you to repeat a sequence, it uses asterisks or parentheses to mark the section. A line like "K2, *P1, K2* repeat from * to end" means: knit 2 stitches once, then do the sequence "purl 1, knit 2" over and over until you reach the end of the row. The asterisks show you where the repeat starts and stops. Some patterns use parentheses instead: (P1, K2) repeat to end means the same thing.
Numbers in parentheses at the end of a row, like "K5, P3, K5 (13 sts)", tell you how many stitches you should have when you finish that row. This is a checkpoint. If you have 14 stitches instead of 13, you made an extra stitch somewhere and need to find and fix it before moving on. These stitch counts save you from discovering a mistake ten rows later.
What the numbers in brackets mean
Brackets usually appear at the end of a section or a row and show the stitch count you should have. They look like this: [24 sts]. This means "you should now have 24 stitches on your needle." If you have a different number, you either added or dropped stitches by accident. Stop and count your stitches on the needle. If the count is wrong, go back a few rows and find where the mistake happened.
Brackets also appear in patterns that come in multiple sizes. A pattern might say "Cast on 48 (56, 64) stitches" — the first number is for size small, the second for medium, the third for large. You pick your size and use only that number throughout the pattern. Some patterns use different brackets for each size: [48 sts for S, 56 sts for M, 64 sts for L]. Either way, pick your size at the start and circle or highlight every number that applies to you.
Gauge: why it matters and how to check it
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows you get per inch when you knit with a specific yarn and needle size. A pattern will say something like "Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches on US 6 needles." This means if you knit a 4-inch square with that yarn and those needles, you should get exactly 18 stitches across and 24 rows up.
Gauge matters because it determines the finished size of your piece. If your gauge is too loose — fewer stitches per inch — your sweater will be too big. If your gauge is too tight — more stitches per inch — it will be too small. Before you start a project, knit a small test square called a gauge swatch, measure it, and count your stitches and rows. If your gauge does not match the pattern, change needle size: go up a size if you are too tight, down a size if you are too loose. Then knit another swatch and check again.
Decoding charts and stitch symbols
Some patterns, especially colorwork and lace patterns, use charts instead of written rows. A chart is a grid where each square represents one stitch. A symbol inside the square tells you what stitch to make: a blank square might mean knit, a dot might mean purl, a small V might mean yarn over. The pattern will include a key that explains what each symbol means.
Charts are read from bottom to top, one row at a time. The bottom row is Row 1. You read it from right to left on the first row, then left to right on the second row, then right to left on the third row — the same direction your yarn moves as you knit back and forth. Some patterns tell you to read all rows from right to left, or all from left to right; follow the pattern's instructions. If the pattern is for circular knitting (knitting in the round), all rows are read from right to left.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "work even" mean in a pattern?
"Work even" means continue knitting the same stitch pattern without increasing or decreasing stitches until you reach the next instruction. For example, "Work even for 2 inches" means keep doing what you have been doing — if you were knitting stockinette stitch, keep knitting stockinette stitch — for 2 inches of length, then move to the next step.
How do I know which side of the fabric is the front?
The pattern will tell you. Look for notes like "RS" (right side) or "WS" (wrong side) next to specific rows. The right side is the side people will see when you wear the finished piece. If the pattern does not specify, the side that looks better is usually the right side.
What if I lose track of which row I am on?
Use a row counter — a small tool that clips to your needle and lets you click off each row as you finish it. You can also place a stitch marker or safety pin on the side of your work and move it up every few rows. Some knitters write the row number on a sticky note and move it down as they go.
Can I skip the gauge swatch?
Not if you want the finished piece to be the right size. Even small differences in gauge add up across a whole sweater or blanket. A 10-minute gauge swatch takes much less time than unraveling and reknitting a finished project that does not fit.
What does "pick up stitches" mean?
Picking up stitches means using your needle to pull new loops through the edge of an already-finished piece — usually along a neckline or armhole. The pattern will tell you how many stitches to pick up and which edge to pick them from. You use a crochet hook or knitting needle to pull yarn through the edge stitches one at a time.