What turning in means and why you do it

Turning in is the technique of folding and securing the raw edges of your knitting so they don't unravel and look finished on both sides. When you cast on and bind off, you create visible loops and bumps along those edges. Turning in hides those loops by folding the edge to the back of the piece and stitching it down, so the front looks clean and the back looks intentional rather than rough.

You turn in edges most often on garments where both sides show — cardigans, shawls, blankets, or anything you wear or display. You also turn in edges on buttonbands, necklines, and hems where a single layer would look thin or floppy. The technique takes a few extra minutes per edge but makes the difference between a project that looks handmade and one that looks finished.

Key Takeaways

  • Turning in means folding your cast-on or bind-off edge to the back of the piece and stitching it down so the front looks smooth and the back looks intentional.
  • The most common method is to pick up stitches along the edge, knit a short band, then fold it over and sew it down by hand using mattress stitch or whip stitch.
  • You can also turn in an edge by picking up stitches and binding off when ready, which creates a neater edge with less bulk than folding a knitted band.
  • Turning in works best on stockinette stitch and other smooth fabrics; textured stitches like garter or cables can look bulky when folded.
  • A tapestry needle and matching yarn are the only tools you need beyond your finished knitting.

The most common method: picking up, knitting, and folding

The standard way to turn in an edge is to pick up stitches along the cast-on or bind-off line, knit a short band (usually 4 to 8 rows), then fold that band to the back and sew it down. Start by threading a tapestry needle with a length of yarn that matches your project. Pick up one stitch in each cast-on or bind-off loop along the edge — if your edge is 40 stitches wide, you will pick up 40 stitches.

Once you have picked up all the stitches, knit them flat for 4 to 8 rows in stockinette stitch (or whatever stitch matches your piece). The number of rows depends on how much bulk you want to hide — thicker yarn needs fewer rows, thinner yarn may need more. After you finish knitting, bind off all stitches loosely so the fold does not pucker. Now fold the band you just knitted to the back of the piece, so the bind-off edge sits just behind the original cast-on or bind-off line.

Using your tapestry needle and the same yarn, sew the folded edge down to the back of the piece using mattress stitch or whip stitch. Work stitch by stitch along the fold, catching one loop from the main piece and one loop from the band edge, so the seam is invisible from the front. The fold should sit flat and smooth, with no puckering or gaps.

The faster method: picking up and binding off

If you want a turned-in edge with less bulk, pick up stitches along the edge and bind off when ready without knitting any rows in between. This creates a neat, finished line that looks like a deliberate design choice rather than a raw edge. The result is thinner than a folded band and works well on lightweight garments or when you want a crisp, tailored look.

Pick up your stitches the same way — one stitch per cast-on or bind-off loop. Then bind off all stitches using your preferred bind-off method (standard bind-off, stretchy bind-off, or sewn bind-off all work). The new bind-off line will sit right at the edge of your original edge, creating a double line of stitches that frames the piece. This method is faster because you skip the knitting step, and it leaves almost no bulk on the back.

Turning in cast-on edges versus bind-off edges

The technique is the same for both, but cast-on edges and bind-off edges look slightly different when you pick them up. A cast-on edge has a bumpy line of loops on the back and a smoother line on the front. A bind-off edge has a chain-like line on the front and a bumpy line on the back. When you pick up stitches, you are working into those loops, so the direction you pick from matters for how the finished edge looks.

For a cast-on edge, pick up from the front of the piece so you are working into the smooth side of the cast-on. For a bind-off edge, pick up from the back so you are working into the bumpy side. This way, when you fold the band over, the bumpy side faces the back of the piece and the smooth side faces forward. If you pick up from the wrong side, the edge will look reversed or uneven.

When turning in doesn't work well

Turning in works best on smooth, flat stitches like stockinette, reverse stockinette, and garter stitch. Textured stitches like cables, bobbles, or lace can look bulky or distorted when you fold them over, because the texture doesn't compress neatly. If your piece is made in a textured stitch, consider leaving the edges as they are or using a different finishing method, like a straightforward bind-off with a contrasting color or a sewn edge.

Turning in also adds weight and bulk to the edge, which can be a problem on very lightweight or delicate projects. A silk lace shawl or a fingering-weight garment may look better with a straightforward, clean bind-off rather than a folded band. Test the look on a swatch or a small section before committing to turning in the entire piece.

Picking up stitches cleanly along the edge

The quality of your turned-in edge depends on how evenly you pick up stitches. If you pick up too many stitches, the edge will bunch and pucker. If you pick up too few, it will gap and look loose. The goal is one stitch per cast-on or bind-off loop, spaced evenly along the entire edge.

Hold your piece with the edge you want to pick up facing you. Insert your needle under the loop of the first stitch, wrap your yarn around the needle, and pull through to create a new stitch on your needle. Move to the next loop and repeat. Work slowly and count as you go — if your edge is 40 stitches wide, you should have exactly 40 new stitches on your needle when you finish. If you have more or fewer, you picked up unevenly and should rip back and try again.

On a curved edge like a neckline, you may need to pick up more stitches in some places and fewer in others to keep the curve smooth. This is one of the few times it is okay to deviate from the one-stitch-per-loop rule. Pick up extra stitches on the inside of the curve and fewer on the outside, then decrease evenly as you knit the band to keep the edge from flaring or puckering.

Sewing the folded edge down securely

Once your band is knitted and folded, the final step is sewing it to the back of the piece. Use a tapestry needle and the same yarn you used for the band. Mattress stitch is the strongest and most invisible option — it works by catching the horizontal bars between stitches on both the main piece and the band, creating a seam that runs vertically and is nearly invisible.

Start at one end of the edge and work slowly, one stitch at a time. Pull the yarn snug but not tight — if you pull too hard, the edge will pucker and the seam will show. After every few stitches, step back and look at the edge from the front to make sure it looks smooth and even. If you see puckering or gaps, you can rip back a few stitches and adjust before continuing.

When you reach the end of the edge, weave the yarn tail through the last few stitches on the back and trim it close. The seam should be completely invisible from the front, and the folded edge should lie flat and smooth against the back of the piece.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to turn in every edge on a garment?

No. You can turn in just the edges that show — the front edges of a cardigan, the neckline, and the hem. Seams that will be sewn to another piece or hidden inside a seam allowance do not need to be turned in. Decide based on what will be visible when the garment is worn or displayed.

What if I picked up too many or too few stitches?

Rip back to the pickup row and try again. Picking up unevenly is one of the most common mistakes, and it is much faster to fix it now than to sew down a puckered edge later. Count carefully as you pick up, and if you end up with the wrong number, pull out the stitches and start over.

Can I turn in an edge on a piece I already finished?

Yes, but it is harder. You will need to carefully pick up stitches along the finished edge without accidentally unraveling the bind-off. Work slowly and use a needle that fits snugly in the stitches. If the edge is very tight or the yarn is fragile, you may want to rip back the bind-off first, then pick up the live stitches and turn in the edge properly.

How do I turn in a curved edge like a neckline?

Pick up stitches unevenly — more on the inside of the curve, fewer on the outside — then decrease evenly as you knit the band. This keeps the curve smooth and prevents the edge from flaring. You may need to experiment with how many decreases to use, so test on a swatch first if you are unsure.

What yarn should I use to sew the edge down?

Use the same yarn you used for the band, or a yarn that matches the main piece if the band is a different color. If your yarn is too thick to thread through a tapestry needle, you can split it into thinner strands or use a finer yarn in a matching color. The goal is a seam that is strong and invisible from the front.