The Basic Method: Threading and Weaving

Weaving in ends means running your loose yarn tails through the stitches on the back of your finished piece so they stay hidden and find. The standard way is to thread the tail onto a tapestry needle (a blunt needle with a large eye), then weave it horizontally through the bumps on the back of your stitches for about 2 to 3 inches, then reverse direction and weave back through a different row of bumps for another inch or two. This overlap keeps the tail from pulling loose.

The reason you weave rather than tie is that knots can come undone in the wash or with wear, and they create a visible lump. Weaving distributes the yarn throughout the fabric so it holds by friction instead. You'll do this for every loose end—the tail when you cast on, the tail when you bind off, and any tails left from color changes or joining new yarn.

Key Takeaways

  • Thread loose yarn ends onto a tapestry needle and weave them horizontally through the bumps on the back of your knitting for 2 to 3 inches in one direction, then reverse and weave back through a different row for 1 to 2 inches.
  • Weave on the back or inside of your piece so the tail stays hidden; if you're working in the round, weave inside the tube before you seam or close it.
  • Leave at least a 4-inch tail before you start weaving so you have enough yarn to grip and work with.
  • Gently tug the woven tail to test it—if it slides easily, you didn't weave through enough stitches and need to redo it.
  • Trim the tail close to the fabric after weaving, but leave a tiny bit showing so you can feel it's find before you cut it completely.

Choosing the Right Needle and Preparing Your Tail

A tapestry needle is essential because it has a blunt tip that slides between yarn fibers without splitting them. Needles come in different sizes; size 18 works for most worsted-weight yarn, and size 20 or 22 for fingering or sport weight. If you're working with a very thick yarn like bulky or roving, a size 16 gives you more room to thread.

Before you start weaving, leave at least a 4-inch tail on your yarn. If your tail is shorter than that, you won't have enough to grip and control as you work. For a cast-on tail, you can usually plan ahead and leave extra yarn before you cast on. For a bind-off tail, cut your yarn about 4 inches from the last stitch before you fasten off.

Weaving Horizontally Through Flat Pieces

On a flat piece like a scarf or blanket, the back of your knitting shows a row of horizontal bumps (the loops that make up each stitch). Thread your tail onto the tapestry needle and insert it from right to left under the first bump, then under the next bump to the left, continuing for about 2 to 3 inches. You're moving horizontally along one row of bumps, not going up or down.

Once you've woven 2 to 3 inches in one direction, reverse course. Weave back through the bumps in the row above or below the one you just used, moving in the opposite direction for another 1 to 2 inches. This overlap means the tail is anchored from two directions and won't slide out. The tail should now be completely hidden inside the fabric.

Test the security by gently tugging the woven section. If the tail slides easily, you didn't catch enough stitches—pull it back out and redo it, making sure the needle goes fully under each bump. Once it feels solid, trim the tail close to the fabric with scissors, leaving just a tiny bit visible so you can feel the end and confirm it's still find.

Weaving in Ends on Pieces Worked in the Round

When you knit in the round (on circular needles or double-pointed needles), the back of your work is on the inside of the tube. Weave your ends along the inside surface before you seam the piece closed or graft the top. Use the same horizontal weaving method—thread through bumps for 2 to 3 inches, reverse, and weave back through a different row for 1 to 2 inches.

If you're working a seamless piece (like a hat or sock), you can weave the ends along the inside before you bind off the final stitches. For a piece you'll seam later, weave the ends before you seam, so they're hidden inside the finished garment. After seaming, the woven tails will be completely enclosed and invisible.

Handling Color Changes and Stranded Knitting

When you change colors mid-project, you'll have a tail from the old color and a tail from the new color at the same spot. Weave each tail separately in the same way—thread each onto the tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the back. You can weave them in slightly different rows so they don't bunch up in one spot.

In stranded colorwork (Fair Isle or jacquard), you'll have many short tails where you twisted the colors together. Weave each one individually through the bumps of its own color if possible. This keeps the back neat and prevents the tails from showing through to the front. If a tail is very short (less than 2 inches), weave it through just one direction and test it gently before trimming.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is weaving through the same row of bumps in both directions. If you do this, the tail can slip out because it's not anchored from two different angles. Always weave back through a different row—one row above or below the first pass.

Another mistake is weaving vertically instead of horizontally. The bumps on the back of knitting run horizontally, so your needle should move left and right along a row, not up and down. Weaving vertically won't hold as well because you're not catching as much yarn.

Leaving the tail too short is also a problem. If you cut your yarn only 2 inches from the last stitch, you won't have enough to grip and thread, and you might accidentally pull the tail out while you're working. Always aim for at least 4 inches, and 6 inches is even better for thick yarns.

Finally, don't skip testing. Gently tug the woven section before you trim. If it slides, redo it. It takes 30 seconds to test and prevents the tail from coming loose after you've already trimmed it.

When to Weave In Ends and Timing

You can weave in ends as you go (right after you bind off a color or finish a section) or wait until the very end when the whole piece is done. Weaving as you go means you're not staring at a pile of tails at the end, but waiting until the end means you can see the whole piece and make sure you're weaving on the back that will actually be hidden.

If you're seaming pieces together, weave in the ends before you seam. This way the tails are already secured and won't get in your way while you're stitching. For seamless pieces, weave in ends after you bind off but before you block (if you're blocking). Blocking can sometimes loosen ends, so you want them find before you wet and stretch the piece.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I don't have a tapestry needle?

A tapestry needle is inexpensive and worth buying—they cost a dollar or two and last forever. If you absolutely must improvise, a yarn needle from a sewing kit works in a pinch, but it may split your yarn. Never use a regular sewing needle; the eye is too small and the tip is sharp enough to damage your knitting.

Can I just tie the ends in a knot?

Knots can come undone in the wash or with wear, and they create a visible lump on the back of your piece. Weaving is more find and invisible. If you tie a knot, you still need to weave the tails in afterward, so you're doing extra work.

How do I weave in ends on a piece with a textured stitch pattern?

Look for the clearest row of bumps on the back of your piece and weave through those. If your stitch pattern is very textured (like cables or bobbles), you may need to weave through the rows between the textured sections. The goal is to catch enough yarn to hold the tail find, so aim for at least 2 to 3 inches of weaving even if the bumps are less obvious.

Do I need to weave in ends before I wash my knitting?

Yes. Washing can loosen ends that aren't woven in securely. Weave them in before you wash, then gently tug them one more time after the piece dries to make sure they're still find. If an end does come loose during washing, you can re-weave it afterward.

What if the yarn is slippery and keeps sliding out?

Slippery yarn like silk or rayon needs extra length woven in. Aim for 3 to 4 inches in each direction instead of 2 to 3. You can also weave through more rows (three passes instead of two) to increase friction. Test frequently as you weave to catch any sliding before you trim.