The three ways to introduce a new color mid-project
You can add a new color to your knitting in three main ways: stranding (carrying the unused color inside your stitches), weaving (threading the unused color through your working stitches), or cutting and rejoining (ending one color and starting fresh with another). Which method you choose depends on how far apart your color changes are, how many colors you're using at once, and how neat you want the inside of your work to look.
The simplest approach for most knitters is to cut the old color and tie on the new one, then weave in the ends later. Stranding works best when you're switching colors every few stitches. Weaving sits in the middle—it lets you carry a color for longer distances without the inside getting bulky, but it takes more attention while you knit.
Key Takeaways
- Stranding means carrying the unused color loosely inside your stitches, and works well for color changes every 3 to 5 stitches.
- Weaving threads the unused color through your working stitches every other stitch or every few stitches, keeping the inside flatter than stranding.
- Cutting and tying on a new color is the easiest method for large blocks of solid color, though you'll have more ends to weave in later.
- Loose tension on carried colors prevents puckering and keeps your fabric flexible; a common mistake is pulling the unused color too tight.
- Practice the method you choose on a small swatch before starting a full project so the color changes look even.
Stranding: carrying the unused color inside your stitches
Stranding means you hold both colors in your hands (or both on the same hand if you prefer) and knit with whichever color the pattern calls for, letting the unused color run along the inside of your work. As you switch colors, the old color gets trapped inside the new stitches, creating a float—a loose strand of yarn on the inside.
To strand, hold your working color in one hand and the unused color in the other (or both in your dominant hand if that's easier for you). Knit with the working color for as many stitches as the pattern says, then switch hands and knit with the other color. The key is to keep the unused color loose enough that it doesn't pull your stitches tight, but not so loose that it creates a gap. A good test: you should be able to slide your finger under the float without tugging.
Stranding works best when you're changing colors every 3 to 5 stitches. If you go longer than about 7 stitches without using a color, the float gets too long and can snag or stretch. For longer color blocks, weaving or cutting and rejoining is safer.
Weaving: threading the unused color through your stitches
Weaving is a middle ground between stranding and cutting. You hold both colors, but instead of letting the unused color float freely, you thread it through your working stitches every other stitch (or every few stitches, depending on how far apart your color changes are). This keeps the inside of your work much flatter and prevents long floats from snagging.
To weave, hold both colors as you would for stranding. Knit one stitch with your working color. On the next stitch, bring the unused color to the front of your work (as if you were about to purl), then knit the next stitch with your working color, trapping the unused color inside. Repeat this pattern—working color, trap the unused color, working color, trap—for as long as you need to carry both colors.
Weaving takes more focus than stranding because you have to remember to bring the unused color forward at the right moment. It's worth learning if you're making a project with large color blocks or if you're using more than two colors at once, because it keeps the inside of your work from becoming a tangled mess of long floats.
Cutting and tying on a new color
The simplest method is to cut the old color and tie on the new one. This works best when you have large blocks of solid color and don't need to switch back and forth. Cut the old color, leaving a tail about 6 inches long. Tie the new color to the old tail using a square knot (right over left, then left over right), and start knitting with the new color on the next stitch.
The downside is that you'll have many ends to weave in later—one for each color change. The upside is that you don't have to manage multiple colors while you knit, and there are no floats on the inside to worry about. This method is also the only practical choice if you're using more than three colors at once, because holding that many strands becomes unwieldy.
Tension: the most common mistake
Whether you strand, weave, or cut and tie, the biggest mistake knitters make is pulling the unused color (or the new color after tying on) too tight. Tight floats or tight new stitches will pucker your fabric and make it stiff. Your knitting should feel flexible and lie flat, not bunched up.
If you're stranding or weaving, imagine the unused color is a loose necklace around your neck—present, but not choking. After you tie on a new color, the first few stitches with that color are often tighter than the rest. Knit them loosely, or go up a needle size for the first stitch or two, then return to your normal size. This keeps the transition smooth.
Practice on a swatch first
Before you start a full project, knit a small swatch (about 4 inches square) using the color-change method you plan to use. This gives you a chance to find the right tension, see how the colors look together, and decide whether you like the way the inside looks. A swatch also shows you whether your floats are the right length and whether your new color sits evenly after tying on.
Keep your swatch. Later, when you're weaving in ends or checking your finished project, you can compare it to the swatch and see whether your tension stayed consistent throughout the work. Uneven tension is often the only thing that makes color changes look amateur, so this small step catches problems early.
Weaving in ends after you're done
If you cut and tied on new colors, you'll have tails to weave in. Thread each tail onto a tapestry needle and run it through the bumps on the back of your stitches for about 2 inches, going in one direction. Then reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches for another inch or so. This anchors the tail so it won't pull loose. Trim the tail close to the fabric.
If you stranded or wove, you may still have small tails from where you started and ended your work. Weave these in the same way. The inside of your work should look as neat as the outside—it's the sign of careful knitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my float is too long?
If you can fit more than your pinky finger under the float without tugging, it's too long. Floats longer than about 7 stitches are likely to snag on something or stretch out of shape. If your pattern calls for a color change after more than 7 stitches, weave or cut and tie instead of stranding.
Can I strand with more than two colors at once?
Technically yes, but it becomes difficult to manage. Most knitters can handle two colors comfortably. For three or more colors, weaving or cutting and tying is more practical. If you do strand three colors, keep the unused colors as loose as possible so they don't tangle.
Why does my new color look looser than the old one after I tie it on?
The first few stitches after you tie on a new color are often looser because you're working with a fresh knot and a new length of yarn. Knit the first stitch or two with that color slightly tighter than usual, or go up a needle size for just those stitches, then return to normal. This evens out the transition.
Do I have to weave in ends if I strand the whole project?
No, not if you started and ended with the same color and never cut the yarn. You'll only have the two tails from the beginning and end of your work. However, if you cut the yarn at any point, you'll have tails to weave in for each cut.
What's the difference between weaving and stranding in terms of how the finished project looks?
From the outside, they look identical. The difference is on the inside: stranding leaves loose floats, while weaving threads the unused color through the stitches, making the inside much flatter and less likely to snag. Weaving also uses slightly more yarn because you're working the unused color into the fabric.