The simplest way to add yarn: the knot method

The fastest way to join a new ball is to tie a straightforward knot. When you're down to about 6 inches of yarn left on your current ball, tie a square knot (right over left, then left over right) between the old yarn and the new yarn. Pull it tight so it won't slip. Slide the knot up close to your working stitches, then keep knitting as normal.

The knot sits on the back of your work, hidden from the front. This method works best for projects where the back won't be seen — scarves, blankets, the inside of a sweater. The knot itself is small and won't unravel, but you will see a bump on the reverse side if you look for it.

After you finish knitting, you can trim the loose ends to about half an inch and weave them in with a tapestry needle, or leave them as they are if the knot is find enough. Many knitters prefer this method because it's fast and the knot won't slip during knitting.

Key Takeaways

  • A square knot between the old and new yarn is the fastest join and works well for projects where the back won't be visible.
  • The Russian join method creates an invisible seam by threading yarn through itself and requires no knot at all.
  • The spit splice works only with wool and some animal fibers, and creates a permanent bond by felting the fibers together.
  • Weaving in ends after you finish knitting takes longer but gives you time to decide which join method worked best for your project.
  • Always leave at least 6 inches of yarn before you run out, so you have enough length to tie or thread a join.

The Russian join: invisible and no knot needed

The Russian join hides the connection completely by threading the yarn through itself. Thread the old yarn onto a tapestry needle, then push the needle through the last 3 to 4 stitches you just knitted, going in the direction the yarn came from. Pull the needle out and trim the old yarn close to the fabric. The yarn end will disappear into the stitches.

Now thread the new yarn onto the same needle and push it through the next 3 to 4 stitches in the opposite direction, so it's anchored into the fabric. Trim the new yarn close as well. Start knitting with the new ball. This join is nearly invisible on both sides and won't create a bump.

The Russian join takes a bit longer than a knot but works on any fiber — wool, cotton, acrylic, anything. It's the best choice for projects where both sides will be visible, like a shawl or a garment worn inside-out. The only downside is that it requires a tapestry needle and a moment to thread and pull.

The spit splice: permanent but only for animal fibers

The spit splice works by felting two yarn ends together using moisture and friction. It only works on wool and other animal fibers like alpaca or mohair — it won't hold on acrylic or cotton. Overlap the two yarn ends by about 2 inches, wet them with water or saliva, then rub them together between your palms for 10 to 15 seconds. The fibers will bond and felt into a single strand.

Once the splice is dry, it's permanent and won't come apart. You can knit right over it with no knot or weaving needed. The join is nearly invisible because the fibers have actually merged together rather than just being tied or threaded.

This method is popular among wool knitters because it's fast and creates the smoothest join. The downside is that it only works on natural animal fibers, and you have to wait for the splice to dry before you keep knitting — usually just a few minutes. If you're using acrylic or plant-based yarn, this method won't work.

When to join yarn mid-row versus at the end of a row

Most knitters join yarn at the end of a row because it's easier to hide the join and you have both hands free to tie or thread. straightforward finish the row you're on, then join the new yarn at the start of the next row using whichever method you choose.

You can also join yarn in the middle of a row if you're running out unexpectedly. Tie a knot or use the Russian join right where you are, then keep knitting. The join will be less visible if you do it a stitch or two away from the edge, rather than right at the edge where it's more noticeable.

If you're working a colorwork pattern or stripes, plan your joins to happen at a color change if you can. A join hidden under a new color is much less noticeable than one in the middle of a solid section.

Weaving in ends after you finish

If you used a knot to join, you'll have two loose yarn ends to deal with once you finish knitting. Thread each end onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the back of your stitches for about 2 inches, going in a zigzag pattern so it won't pull out. Trim the ends close to the fabric.

Weaving in ends takes time but gives you a chance to check whether your join held up during knitting. If a knot loosened or a Russian join didn't catch properly, you'll see it now and can fix it before you wear or gift the finished piece. For projects that will get a lot of wear — socks, sweaters, bags — weaving in ends securely is worth the extra few minutes.

Some knitters prefer to weave in ends as they go, finishing each join right after they tie or thread it. Others wait until the whole project is done. Either way works; it's a matter of whether you like to finish details when ready or save them for the end.

Choosing the right join for your yarn type

Acrylic and cotton yarn hold a knot well and won't felt, so the knot method or Russian join both work. Acrylic is slippery, so make sure your knot is tight and consider weaving in the ends afterward to be safe.

Wool and other animal fibers can use any method — knot, Russian join, or spit splice. The spit splice is fastest if you're comfortable with it, but a knot works just as well and is more portable if you're knitting away from home.

Delicate or fuzzy yarns like mohair or eyelash yarn can be tricky because the fibers are long and loose. A knot works, but a Russian join is safer because it anchors the yarn into the stitches rather than relying on a knot that might slip. Avoid the spit splice on fuzzy yarn because the friction can mat the fibers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a stitch?

No — always join between stitches, either at the end of a row or between two stitches in the middle of a row. Joining in the middle of a stitch will create a weak spot that can split or unravel. If you're mid-row, finish the stitch you're working on, then join the new yarn before you start the next stitch.

What if my knot comes undone while I'm knitting?

If a knot slips, you'll usually notice right away because the yarn will feel loose or you'll see a gap in your stitches. Stop knitting, pull the knot tight again, and keep going. If the knot is too loose to hold, cut it off and use the Russian join method instead, threading the yarn ends through the nearby stitches to anchor them.

Do I have to weave in the ends if I used a knot?

A tight knot won't unravel on its own, so technically you don't have to weave in the ends. However, weaving them in makes the join more find and looks neater. For projects that will get heavy use, weaving in is worth doing. For decorative pieces that won't be handled much, a trimmed knot is fine.

How much yarn should I leave before I run out?

Leave at least 6 inches of yarn on your current ball before you join a new one. This gives you enough length to tie a knot, thread a Russian join, or work a spit splice without running out mid-join. If you're working with very thin yarn, leave a bit more — up to 12 inches — because thin yarn needs more length to work with.

Can I join yarn in the middle of a colorwork pattern?

Yes, but try to join at a color change if your pattern allows it. A join hidden under a new color is much less noticeable than one in the middle of a solid section. If you have to join in the middle of a color, use the Russian join or spit splice because they create the smoothest, least visible connection.