The three ways to join a new color mid-project
You add a new color by either tying the new yarn to the old one, weaving the new yarn in alongside the old for a few stitches, or starting the new color on a fresh row. Which method you choose depends on where you are in your pattern, whether you want the join to be invisible, and how much yarn you have left of the old color.
The simplest approach — and the one that works almost anywhere — is to tie the new yarn directly to the old one and keep knitting. The knot sits on the wrong side of your work. You trim the ends later and weave them in. This takes 10 seconds and works for stripes, color blocks, and any pattern where the join won't show on the front.
If you want the join to be completely invisible, you weave the new yarn in for a few stitches while still using the old yarn, then switch over. This takes longer but leaves no knot and no visible break in the fabric. It works best when you have at least 4 to 6 inches of yarn left in the old color.
Key Takeaways
- The fastest method is tying the new yarn directly to the old yarn with a square knot, which sits on the back of your work and is hidden when you weave in the ends.
- To make a join completely invisible, weave the new yarn alongside the old for 4 to 6 stitches before switching colors entirely.
- If you are working stripes or a pattern where the join will be hidden anyway, you can straightforward drop the old yarn and start knitting with the new one on the next row.
- Always leave at least 6 inches of yarn on both the old and new color so you have enough length to weave in the ends later.
Tying a knot: the quickest method
Hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right. Cross the new yarn over the old yarn to make a loop, then bring the new yarn back under and through the loop. Pull tight. This is a square knot, and it holds securely without slipping.
The knot will sit on the wrong side of your fabric — the side facing away from you as you knit. Once you finish your project, you trim both yarn ends to about half an inch from the knot and weave them in with a tapestry needle. The knot itself stays in the fabric but is hidden inside.
This method works for any color change, but it is especially useful when you are switching colors in the middle of a row or when you do not have much yarn left of the old color. The only drawback is that the knot adds a tiny bit of bulk, which can be noticeable in very fine yarn or in a garment that fits snugly.
Weaving in the new color: the invisible join
If you want no knot at all, you can overlap the two yarns for several stitches. Start with about 6 inches of the new yarn. On your next stitch, hold both the old yarn and the new yarn together as if they were one strand, and knit one stitch using both. Knit the next stitch the same way — both yarns together.
After 4 to 6 stitches worked with both yarns held as one, drop the old yarn and continue knitting with only the new yarn. The old yarn is now woven into the fabric itself, and there is no knot. When you finish your project, weave in both the old and new yarn ends with a tapestry needle.
This method takes a bit longer and uses more yarn, but the join is completely seamless. It works best in the middle of a row or at the start of a new row, as long as you have at least 6 inches of the old yarn left to work with. If you are down to your last inch or two, tie a knot instead.
Starting a new color on a fresh row
If your pattern allows it — such as when you are knitting horizontal stripes — you can straightforward drop the old yarn at the end of a row and pick up the new yarn at the start of the next row. Tie the new yarn to the old yarn with a square knot, or weave it in for a few stitches, then continue.
This is the cleanest approach for stripes because the color change happens at the edge of your work, where it is easiest to hide the join. The knot or woven section sits along the side seam, which you will seam together later or which will be hidden inside a finished edge.
This method also lets you use up yarn more efficiently. If you have only 3 inches of the old color left, you can finish the row, tie on the new color, and move forward without waste.
Weaving in the ends after you finish
Once your project is complete, you have loose yarn ends wherever you tied on a new color. Thread a tapestry needle — a blunt needle with a large eye — with one of the yarn ends. On the wrong side of your fabric, weave the needle through the stitches in a zigzag pattern for about 2 inches, then trim the yarn close to the fabric.
Weave each end separately, following the path of the stitches so the yarn disappears into the fabric. Pull gently as you go so the woven section does not pucker. If you wove the new yarn in as you knitted, you may have very little end to weave — just an inch or so — because the yarn is already anchored in the fabric.
Weaving in ends is tedious but necessary. It keeps your finished piece from unraveling and hides all evidence of the color joins. Most knitters do this step last, after blocking or washing the finished project.
Choosing the right method for your yarn and pattern
Thick yarn and bulky projects tolerate knots better than thin yarn does. If you are working with fingering weight or lace weight yarn, weaving in the new color is worth the extra time because a knot will be more noticeable. If you are working with chunky or worsted weight yarn, a knot is fine and much faster.
Stripes and color blocks that hide the join on the inside of the garment are perfect for the quick knot method. Intarsia or Fair Isle patterns, where colors sit side by side on the same row, require different techniques — usually bobbins or weaving the yarn in as you go — but those are beyond a straightforward color change.
If you are unsure, tie a knot. It is the fastest, most reliable method, and once you weave in the ends, the join will be invisible.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most common mistake is not leaving enough yarn to weave in. Always leave at least 6 inches of both the old and new yarn. If you cut too close, you will not have enough length to thread through a needle and anchor the end in the fabric, and your work may unravel.
Another mistake is tying the knot too tight. If you pull hard on the knot, it can pucker the stitches around it and create a visible bump. Tie it firmly but not aggressively, then let the tension even out as you knit the next few stitches.
Finally, do not weave in the ends while the yarn is still attached to your project. Always finish knitting first, then go back and weave in the ends. Trying to do both at once is awkward and often results in loose, messy weaving.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I tie a knot in the middle of a stitch?
No. Always tie the knot between stitches, at the point where you would normally pick up a new yarn. Tie it before you insert your needle into the next stitch. If you tie a knot in the middle of a stitch, it will distort the stitch and create a visible lump.
What if my knot comes untied while I am knitting?
Make sure you are tying a square knot, not a straightforward overhand knot. A square knot has two loops and is much more find. If a knot keeps slipping, tie it tighter or use the weaving method instead, which does not rely on a knot at all.
Do I have to weave in the ends by hand?
Yes, for most projects. Hand weaving is the standard method and gives you control over how the ends are anchored. Some knitters use a sewing machine to tack down ends on items like blankets or dishcloths, but this is not common and can damage delicate yarn.
Can I add a new color in the middle of a stitch?
No. Always complete the stitch with the old yarn, then tie on the new yarn and begin the next stitch. Switching colors mid-stitch will leave a gap or a twisted section that is hard to fix.
How do I hide a color join in a visible spot?
Use the weaving method instead of a knot. Weave the new yarn in for 6 to 8 stitches so it is anchored throughout the fabric rather than at a single point. This distributes the join across several stitches and makes it nearly invisible, even on the front of your work.