The simplest way to add yarn: tie a knot and keep going
When your working yarn runs out mid-project, you have three main choices: tie a knot, weave the ends in later and hide the join inside your fabric, use a spit splice if you are working with animal fibers, or add the new yarn at a seam or edge where a small knot will be less visible. The easiest method for most knitters is the knot-and-weave approach: tie the old yarn and new yarn together with a square knot, continue knitting for a few stitches, then work the loose ends into the fabric with a tapestry needle once the project is finished.
The knot-and-weave method works on any yarn fiber and any project. It takes about thirty seconds and requires only what you already have in your hands. The trade-off is that you will need to spend time later hiding those ends, and if the knot is not tied tightly, it can slip during washing or wear.
Key Takeaways
- A square knot tied between the old and new yarn is the fastest way to join skeins and works with any fiber type.
- Knit at least three stitches after tying the knot, then weave both yarn ends into the back of your finished fabric with a tapestry needle to hide the join.
- A spit splice works only on animal fibers like wool and creates an invisible join with no knot, but takes practice and cannot be undone.
- Joining at a seam, edge, or color change hides the knot better than joining in the middle of stockinette stitch.
Tying a square knot: the standard method
Hold the end of your old yarn in your left hand and the end of your new yarn in your right hand. Cross the old yarn over the new yarn, wrap it around, and pull it through to make the first half-knot. Then cross the new yarn over the old yarn, wrap it around, and pull through to complete the square knot. Pull both ends tight so the knot sits snug against your working yarn.
The square knot is stronger than a straightforward overhand knot because each half-knot locks the other in place. If you tie it backwards (right over left, then right over left again), you will end up with a slip knot that can come undone. The correct pattern is left over right, then right over left.
Once the knot is tied, leave both yarn ends hanging and continue knitting as normal. Knit at least three stitches with the new yarn before you cut the old yarn tail, so the knot has something to grip. If you cut it too close, the knot can slip through the stitches during your next row.
Weaving in the ends after you finish
When your project is complete, thread a tapestry needle with one of the loose yarn ends. On the back side of your fabric, weave the needle through the loops of several stitches in a zigzag pattern, going up through one stitch and down through the next. Work across at least two inches of fabric, then reverse direction and weave back through the same area, but offset by one stitch so you are not retracing the same path.
This back-and-forth weaving locks the yarn end in place so it cannot pull free. After you finish weaving, trim the excess yarn close to the fabric. The end will not unravel because it is locked inside the stitches.
Weave in the new yarn end the same way, working on the back side of the fabric. If your project has a right side and a wrong side, always weave on the wrong side so the path of the yarn is hidden. For projects like scarves or blankets where both sides show, weave the ends into the middle of the fabric thickness so they are not visible from either side.
The spit splice for invisible joins in wool
A spit splice works only on animal fibers like wool, alpaca, and mohair. It does not work on acrylic, cotton, or synthetic blends. The method uses moisture and friction to felt the fibers of the old yarn and new yarn together so they bond without a knot.
Unply the last inch of your old yarn and the first inch of your new yarn by separating the individual strands that make up each yarn. Overlap the unplied sections so they cross, then wet them with saliva or water and rub them together between your palms for ten to fifteen seconds. The friction and moisture cause the fibers to felt and stick together. Once dry, the join is permanent and invisible.
The spit splice takes practice to get right. If you do not unply enough yarn, the join will be weak. If you do not rub long enough, the fibers will not felt and the join will slip. Once you have done it a few times, it becomes faster than tying a knot, and the result is much neater. The downside is that you cannot undo a spit splice, so if the join fails, you have to cut it out and start over.
Joining at a seam or edge to hide the knot
If your pattern has a seam — such as the edge of a sweater body or the side of a sock — you can tie your knot right at that seam. The knot will be hidden inside the seam allowance when you sew the pieces together. This is the neatest option for garments and structured projects.
Similarly, if you are knitting a striped or color-blocked project, you can time your yarn change to happen at the color boundary. Tie the knot at the edge of the color change, and the join will be hidden by the visual break between colors.
For projects without seams or color changes, such as a garter stitch blanket, joining at the edge of the fabric is still better than joining in the middle. The knot will be less noticeable along the edge than buried in the middle of a stockinette field.
What to do if your knot slips
If you notice the knot slipping during knitting — the stitches around it are getting loose or the yarn is pulling through — stop and tighten the knot. Pull both yarn ends hard to draw the knot closer to your working stitches. If the knot is already too loose to tighten, you may need to unravel back to the knot, retie it more tightly, and knit forward again.
A slipping knot is usually a sign that the knot was not tied tightly enough in the first place, or that you cut the old yarn tail too short. If you are prone to this, try leaving longer tails (at least four inches) and pulling the knot very tight before you start knitting.
Joining yarn in the middle of a row versus at the end
You can join yarn at any point — in the middle of a row, at the end of a row, or at the beginning of a new row. Joining at the end of a row is slightly easier because you have a moment to tie the knot without holding active stitches, but it makes no practical difference to the strength of the join.
Some knitters prefer to join at the beginning of a new row so the knot sits at the edge of the fabric rather than in the middle of a row. Others join as soon as the old yarn runs out, wherever that happens to be. Both approaches work fine. The only real rule is to knit at least three stitches after the knot before you cut the old yarn tail.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I tie the knot on the back side of my fabric to hide it?
No. The knot needs to be on the working side where you can see it and control it as you knit. Once you tie the knot, it becomes part of the yarn strand and will show up in your stitches no matter which side of the fabric it is on. Weaving in the ends after finishing is what hides the knot.
What if I run out of yarn in the middle of a complicated stitch pattern?
Tie the knot and keep knitting the pattern as normal. The knot does not change how you work the stitches. Just make sure you knit at least three stitches past the knot before cutting the old yarn tail so the knot has something to grip.
Do I have to weave in the ends, or can I just leave the knot?
If you leave the knot exposed without weaving in the ends, the tails can unravel or catch on things during wear or washing. Weaving in takes ten minutes per project and makes the difference between a join that lasts and one that falls apart. It is worth doing.
Can I use a spit splice on acrylic yarn?
No. Spit splices only work on animal fibers like wool because those fibers felt when wet and rubbed. Acrylic, cotton, and synthetic yarns do not felt, so the fibers will not bond. Use a square knot instead.
How do I know if my knot is tight enough?
Pull both yarn ends hard — the knot should not slip at all. If it moves even slightly, pull harder. A properly tied square knot should feel locked in place and should not come loose even if you tug on it hard.