Adding a stitch means creating a new loop on your needle to widen your fabric

When you add a stitch during knitting, you create an extra loop that becomes part of your next row. This is called an increase, and it's how you shape garments wider at the sleeves, waist, or edges. The three most common methods are the bar increase (easiest to see), the yarn-over (creates a decorative hole), and the lifted increase (nearly invisible). Each one leaves a different mark on your fabric, so the pattern you're following will tell you which to use.

You'll add stitches at specific points in your pattern—usually marked as "inc" or "M1" in the instructions. The timing matters: if your pattern says to increase on row 5, you do it then, not whenever you feel like it. Most increases happen one stitch in from the edge, so your edges stay neat.

Key Takeaways

  • The bar increase (knit into the front and back of the same stitch) is the simplest method and leaves a visible horizontal bump that some patterns use as a design detail.
  • A yarn-over (wrapping yarn around the needle without knitting a stitch) creates a decorative hole and is the fastest increase, but only works in lacy patterns.
  • The lifted increase (picking up the loop from the row below and knitting it) is nearly invisible and works best for shaping that should not show.
  • Always increase one stitch in from the edge to keep your selvage (edge stitches) even and make seaming easier later.
  • Your pattern will specify which increase method to use, so check the abbreviations key before you start.

The Bar Increase: Knit Front and Back

The bar increase is the easiest to learn because you're just knitting twice into the same stitch. Insert your right needle into the stitch on your left needle from front to back, wrap yarn, and pull through as normal. Do not slip the stitch off yet. Bring your right needle to the back of the left needle, insert it from back to front into the same stitch, wrap yarn, and pull through again. Now slip the original stitch off the left needle. You've created two stitches from one.

This method leaves a small horizontal bump or bar at the base of the new stitch—that's where the name comes from. Some patterns use this as a design feature, especially in textured or rustic sweaters. If your pattern calls for a "kfb" increase, this is the one. The bar is most visible on the knit side of stockinette stitch, so if you want an invisible increase, use a different method.

Common mistake: knitting into the back loop first, then the front. It doesn't matter which order you choose, but pick one and stay consistent so all your increases look the same.

The Yarn-Over: Creating a Decorative Hole

A yarn-over is the fastest increase because you don't knit anything—you just wrap yarn around the needle. If you're working on a knit row, knit the stitch before where you want to increase. Bring yarn to the front of your work (between the needles), then knit the next stitch normally. The yarn wrapped around the needle creates a new stitch, and the hole it leaves is intentional and decorative.

Yarn-overs are standard in lace patterns, eyelet designs, and any pattern where you want visible holes. They're marked as "yo" in patterns. The hole sits directly above where you made the yarn-over, so you can see exactly where your increases are. This makes yarn-overs useful for counting rows and checking your progress.

Important: a yarn-over only works if you're increasing by the same number of stitches you're decreasing elsewhere in the row. If your pattern says "yo, k2tog" (yarn-over, knit two together), the yarn-over adds a stitch and the k2tog removes one, keeping your stitch count the same. If you do a yarn-over without a matching decrease, you'll accidentally add a stitch to your total count.

The Lifted Increase: Nearly Invisible Shaping

The lifted increase picks up a stitch from the row below and knits it, which makes the increase almost invisible. This is the best choice when you want shaping that doesn't show—like on fitted sleeves or waist shaping in a dress. Knit to the stitch where you want to increase. With your right needle, pick up the loop from the stitch directly below the stitch on your left needle (one row down). Knit into that picked-up loop, then knit the stitch on your left needle normally. You've added a stitch without leaving a visible bar.

The lifted increase takes a little practice to see where to pick up the loop, but once you find it, it's fast. The loop sits right below your working stitch—you're borrowing from the row beneath. This method works best in stockinette stitch where the loops are straightforward to see. In textured stitches, finding the right loop gets harder.

Timing note: if your pattern says "M1" or "M1L" (make one left) or "M1R" (make one right), it's usually a lifted increase. The L and R tell you which direction to lean the new stitch so it matches the slope of your decreases on the other side.

Where to Place Your Increases

Most patterns tell you exactly where to increase, but the general rule is one stitch in from the edge. If your pattern says "increase 1 stitch each side," you knit the first stitch (your selvage), then increase in the second stitch. Work across to the last two stitches, increase in the second-to-last stitch, then knit the last stitch. This keeps your edge stitches clean and makes seaming much easier when you finish the piece.

If you're increasing in the middle of a row (like shaping a sleeve cap), the pattern will mark the exact stitch. Count carefully from the edge or use stitch markers to mark where you need to increase. Placing increases in the wrong spot throws off the whole shape of the garment.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is increasing too early or too late. If your pattern says "increase on row 8," count your rows carefully. It's straightforward to lose count, especially on long rows. Use a row counter or make a small pencil mark on your pattern each time you finish a row. Increasing one row early or late might not seem like much, but it throws off the fit of the finished piece.

Another mistake is forgetting to slip the original stitch off the needle after a bar increase. You'll end up with an extra stitch that you didn't intend. Count your stitches every few rows to catch this early. If you do accidentally add an extra stitch, you can drop it back down and fix it, but it's easier to avoid the mistake in the first place.

Uneven tension on your increases is also common. If your new stitches are much looser or tighter than the rest of your work, practice the motion slowly until it feels natural. Yarn-overs are usually looser than the surrounding stitches, so some knitters pull slightly tighter on the stitch after a yarn-over to even it out.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between M1 and kfb?

M1 (make one) is a lifted increase that's nearly invisible. Kfb (knit front and back) is a bar increase that leaves a visible bump. Your pattern will specify which one to use. If it just says "increase," check the abbreviations key at the beginning of the pattern.

Can I use any increase method in any pattern?

Technically yes, but you shouldn't. Lace patterns need yarn-overs because they create the holes the design depends on. Fitted garments need invisible increases like M1. Textured patterns often use bar increases as part of the design. Using the wrong method changes how the finished piece looks and fits.

What if I increase on the wrong row?

If you notice it right away, you can rip back to that row and redo it. If you've already finished the piece, one increase or decrease in the wrong spot usually won't be noticeable unless it's in a very fitted area. For future projects, use a row counter or mark your pattern to avoid this.

How do I know if my increase is tight or loose?

Look at the new stitch compared to the stitches around it. If it's noticeably larger or smaller, your tension is off. Practice the increase a few times on scrap yarn until the new stitch matches the rest of your work. Yarn-overs will always look slightly looser—that's normal.

Can I add stitches in the middle of a row without a pattern telling me to?

You can, but it will change the shape of your piece. Increases are calculated into the pattern to create the right fit and shaping. If you add extra stitches on your own, the garment will be wider than intended. Stick to the pattern unless you're intentionally modifying the design.