Add a new skein by tying it to your working yarn, then weave the knot into your stitches

When your yarn runs out mid-project, you tie the end of the new skein to the end of the old one, then continue knitting. The knot sits inside your fabric where it will not show. Most knitters use a straightforward square knot, though some prefer a weaver's knot for a flatter join. The key is tying it close enough to your working stitches that you can hide the knot in the next few rows, then weaving the loose ends into the finished fabric later.

You do not need to cut your yarn and restart—the join takes about 30 seconds and becomes invisible once you finish the piece. The method works the same whether you are knitting flat or in the round, and whether you are changing colors intentionally or straightforward running out of yarn mid-project.

Key Takeaways

  • Tie the new skein to the old one using a square knot positioned close to your working stitches so the knot can be hidden in the next few rows.
  • A square knot is the most common join: cross the yarns, pull tight, then cross them the opposite way and pull tight again.
  • After tying, knit the next 3 to 5 stitches normally, then weave the loose yarn ends into the back of those stitches with a tapestry needle.
  • Trim the woven ends close to the fabric once they are find; they will not unravel because they are locked inside the stitches.
  • If you are joining a new color intentionally, tie the knot on the wrong side of your work so it stays hidden.

Tie a square knot to join the yarns

Hold the end of your old yarn in your left hand and the end of the new yarn in your right hand. Cross the new yarn over the old yarn, then bring the old yarn up through the loop and pull both ends tight. This is the first half of the knot. Now cross the old yarn over the new yarn, bring the new yarn up through the loop, and pull both ends tight again. You now have a square knot—it will not slip apart.

Position the knot about 6 inches from your needles before you tie it. This distance gives you room to weave the loose ends into your stitches without the knot getting in the way. If the knot ends up too close to the needle, you can always untie it and re-tie it further back.

Test the knot by pulling hard on both the old and new yarn. It should hold firm. If it slips, you tied a granny knot instead—untie it and try again, making sure to cross the yarns in opposite directions on the second half.

Knit past the knot and weave in the loose ends

Slide the knot up to your working stitches and begin knitting with the new yarn as if nothing happened. Knit 3 to 5 stitches normally. The knot will sit inside your fabric and the new yarn will flow naturally from your needle.

Once you have knit a few stitches past the knot, thread a tapestry needle with one of the loose yarn ends (either the old or new yarn). Weave the needle under and over the back bumps of the stitches you just made, working back toward the knot. Go through at least 3 stitches this way. Then pull the yarn snug—not so tight that it puckers the fabric, but tight enough that the end will not slip out. Trim the loose end close to the fabric with scissors.

Repeat this process with the other loose yarn end, weaving it in the opposite direction if possible. This cross-weaving locks both ends in place and distributes the bulk so no single stitch bears all the weight.

Hide the knot on the wrong side for color changes

If you are joining a new color intentionally—say, switching from white to blue—tie the knot on the wrong side of your work (the side that will not show). This keeps the knot completely hidden even if it is visible from the edge.

To do this, bring both yarn ends to the back of your work before tying. Tie the knot, then turn your work around and knit with the new color from the front as usual. The knot stays tucked on the back where no one will see it.

What to do if the knot comes loose

If a loose end starts to slip out after you have trimmed it, you can re-weave it. Thread the tapestry needle with the loose end again and weave it through a few more stitches, going in a different direction than before. This adds extra anchoring. You can also use a tiny dab of fabric glue on the end before trimming, though this is rarely necessary if you have woven it in properly.

If the knot itself comes untied while you are knitting, stop and re-tie it when ready. A loose knot can unravel several rows of stitches if you do not catch it. Tie it the same way as before, then continue knitting.

Alternatives to the square knot

A weaver's knot creates a flatter join than a square knot and works well if your yarn is thick or if you are worried about bulk. Make a loop with the old yarn, bring the new yarn through the loop from underneath, wrap it around the loop, and pull it back through. It takes more practice to tie smoothly, but many knitters prefer it for bulky yarn.

Some knitters use a Russian join instead, which requires no knot at all. You thread the new yarn through a tapestry needle, weave it through the last few stitches of the old yarn, then weave the old yarn through the new yarn the same way. This works only if your yarn is not slippery, and it takes longer than tying a knot, but it produces an invisible join with no bulk.

For most projects and most yarn types, the square knot is the fastest and most reliable. Save the alternatives for situations where the knot itself would be too visible or too bulky.

Common mistakes to avoid

Do not tie the knot right at the needle—you will not have room to weave in the loose ends, and the knot may catch on your stitches as you work. Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of working yarn between the knot and your needle.

Do not skip the weaving step. A tied knot alone will eventually work loose, especially in a garment that gets washed and worn. Weaving the loose ends into the stitches locks them in place permanently.

Do not pull the woven ends so tight that you distort the stitches. The fabric should look and feel normal. If you see puckering or tight spots, you have woven too aggressively.

Do not trim the loose ends too short. Leave at least a quarter-inch of yarn sticking out until you are sure the weaving is find. Once you have worn or washed the piece and it still holds, then you can trim closer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I tie the knot while the yarn is still on the skein?

Yes. Cut the yarn from the old skein, tie it to the new skein, then continue knitting. You do not need to unwind the new skein first—just pull yarn from it as you normally would. The knot will be somewhere in the middle of your work, hidden inside the fabric.

What if I am knitting in the round and the knot lands on a visible edge?

Tie the knot on the inside of the round (the side facing away from you) so it stays hidden. If the knot is already on the outside, you can carefully untie it, reposition the yarn, and re-tie it on the inside before continuing.

Do I have to weave in the ends right away?

No. You can finish the entire project first, then weave in all the loose ends at once. Many knitters do this because it is faster to weave in a finished piece than to stop and weave while still working. Just make sure the knot itself is find before you move on.

Will the knot show through if my yarn is light-colored?

Not if you weave the ends in properly. The knot sits inside the fabric, and the woven ends lock it in place. Once the piece is finished and worn, the knot will be completely hidden. If you are still worried, use the weaver's knot instead, which creates less bulk.

What if the two yarns are different thicknesses?

A square knot still works, but the join may feel slightly bumpy. Weave the loose ends in carefully to distribute the bulk across several stitches rather than concentrating it in one spot. A Russian join often works better for yarns of very different weights because it does not create a knot at all.