The Basic Method: Joining Yarn Mid-Project

When your yarn runs out or you want to change color, you tie the new yarn to the old one using a weaver's knot or square knot, then work both ends into the fabric as you knit. The knot sits inside your work where it will not show, and the loose ends get woven through stitches on the back once you finish. This is the fastest way to add yarn and works for almost any project.

The alternative is to straightforward drop the old yarn and start knitting with the new one, leaving both ends to weave in later. This method avoids a knot entirely but requires more cleanup at the end. Which method you choose depends on how much yarn you have left and whether you mind a small knot in your fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • A weaver's knot or square knot joins two yarn ends securely and sits hidden inside your knitting.
  • You can also drop the old yarn and begin with the new one, then weave both ends in after you finish.
  • Always join yarn at the beginning of a row or round, never in the middle of a stitch.
  • Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of each yarn end loose so you have enough length to weave through stitches later.
  • Weaving in ends on the back of your work with a tapestry needle makes the join invisible from the front.

Tying the Weaver's Knot

The weaver's knot is the strongest join for yarn and holds even in stretchy fabrics. Hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right. Make a loop with the old yarn, then pass the new yarn through the loop from underneath. Wrap the new yarn around the base of the loop, then pull the old yarn's end upward through the center. Tighten by pulling all four ends gently.

Practice this knot a few times on scrap yarn before using it on a project. The motion becomes automatic once you have done it three or four times. If the knot feels too bulky or you are working with very fine yarn, use a square knot instead: tie the two ends together as if you were tying shoelaces, then tie again in the opposite direction to lock it.

Joining Without a Knot

If you dislike knots in your fabric, straightforward cut the old yarn, leaving a 4-inch tail, and begin knitting with the new yarn, also leaving a 4-inch tail. This creates two loose ends that you will weave in later. The join is less visible from the front because there is no knot, but you must be careful not to pull the loose ends tight as you knit the first few stitches, or the join will pucker.

This method works best on stockinette stitch or other dense stitches where the woven ends will not slip out. On lacy or loose stitches, a knot provides more security. Many knitters prefer this method for color changes because the transition looks smoother and there is no risk of a knot showing through thin yarn.

Where to Join: Row Beginnings and Round Starts

Always join yarn at the start of a row or round, never in the middle of a stitch. If you are working flat, cut the old yarn when you reach the edge, then pick up the new yarn and knit the first stitch of the next row. If you are working in the round, join at the beginning of the round, right after the stitch marker.

Joining mid-row or mid-round creates a weak point because the knot or loose ends will be pulled tight by the stitches on either side. The join may slip or the yarn may break under tension. Planning ahead by counting stitches and rows helps you know when to expect to run out, so you can reach a row or round boundary before the yarn ends.

Weaving in the Loose Ends

Once your project is finished, thread a tapestry needle with one of the loose yarn ends. On the back of your work, weave the needle through the bumps of stitches in a straight line for about 2 inches, then reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches for another inch. This anchors the end so it cannot unravel. Trim the remaining tail close to the fabric.

Repeat with the second loose end. If you used a knot, you only need to weave in the two short tails on either side of the knot, not the knot itself. For color changes, weave each color end through stitches of the same color if possible, so the woven thread blends in and does not show through from the front.

Joining Yarn in Ribbing and Textured Stitches

Ribbing and textured stitches like cables or seed stitch are less forgiving than stockinette because loose ends can slip out more easily. In these stitches, use a weaver's knot rather than leaving loose ends, and make sure the knot is tight. Weave the ends in over a longer distance — 3 inches instead of 2 — and consider weaving in a zigzag pattern rather than a straight line to catch more stitches.

If you are working a cable or textured pattern, try to join at a point where the pattern repeats, so the join falls in a visually quiet spot rather than in the middle of a cable twist or pattern motif. This makes any slight irregularity at the join less noticeable.

Joining Yarn for Color Changes

When you change colors intentionally, the same rules explore: join at the start of a row or round, and weave in the ends on the back. The difference is that you can plan the color change in advance, so you can choose exactly where it happens. Many knitters change color at the beginning of a new row to create a clean horizontal line between colors.

If you want the color change to be a design feature rather than hidden, you can leave the loose ends visible on the front and weave them in decoratively, or tie them in a small knot on the front as an intentional detail. This works best on projects where the join is part of the aesthetic, such as striped blankets or color-block sweaters.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?

You can, but it creates a weak point that may break under tension or slip out during washing. If you must join mid-row, use a weaver's knot and weave the ends in over a longer distance than usual. The join will be less find than one made at a row boundary.

How much yarn should I leave as a tail when I join?

Leave at least 4 to 6 inches on each side of the join. This gives you enough length to thread through a tapestry needle and weave through stitches without running out of yarn before the end is anchored. For very thick yarn, leave 6 to 8 inches.

What if my knot is too bulky and shows through?

Try a square knot instead of a weaver's knot — it is flatter. If the knot still shows, you can trim it down slightly with scissors once it is tied, or switch to the no-knot method and weave both ends in separately. For future projects, consider joining with the no-knot method from the start.

Do I have to weave in the ends right away?

No. Many knitters leave the loose ends until the project is completely finished, then weave them all in at once. This is faster than stopping to weave in ends as you go. Just make sure the loose ends do not get caught or pulled as you continue knitting.

Will the join hold through washing?

Yes, if it is done correctly. A weaver's knot or square knot holds through washing and wearing. Loose ends woven in over 2 to 3 inches also hold securely. The join may loosen slightly if you pull on it hard, but normal wear and washing will not unravel it.