How to Add Stitches While Knitting: Three Methods That Work

The three ways to add stitches mid-project

You add stitches while knitting by creating new loops on your needle without casting on beforehand. The three methods that work best are the yarn-over (fastest, leaves a visible hole), the lifted increase (invisible, uses existing stitches), and the make-one increase (invisible, uses the strand between stitches). Which one you choose depends on whether you want the new stitch to show, how many stitches you need, and what your pattern calls for.

Most patterns tell you which method to use. If yours does not, the yarn-over is the easiest to learn first. The lifted increase works best when you need the new stitch to blend in. The make-one is the most common in professional patterns because it distributes increases evenly across a row.

Key Takeaways

• A yarn-over creates a new stitch by wrapping yarn around your needle and is the fastest method, though it leaves a small decorative hole.
• The lifted increase pulls a loop from the row below and knits it, adding a stitch without creating a hole or using extra yarn.
• The make-one increase uses the horizontal strand between two stitches, twisted to prevent a hole, and is the most invisible method.
• Your pattern usually specifies which increase to use, written as YO, M1, or inc; follow the pattern instruction rather than choosing yourself.

The yarn-over: fastest and most visible

A yarn-over (written as YO in patterns) is the simplest increase because it requires only one motion: wrap your working yarn around the needle. On a knit row, bring the yarn to the front of your work between the needles, then knit the next stitch normally. The yarn wrapped around the needle becomes a new stitch, and the loop it creates shows as a small hole in your fabric.

Yarn-overs are used deliberately in lace patterns, where the holes are part of the design. They are also the fastest increase to work because you do not have to manipulate existing stitches. The downside is that the hole is always visible, so yarn-overs do not work for increases you want to hide — like shaping the armhole of a sweater where you want a clean edge.

On a purl row, bring the yarn to the back of your work, then purl the next stitch. The motion is the same; only the direction changes. If your pattern says YO, this is the method it means.

The lifted increase: invisible and straightforward

A lifted increase (sometimes called a bar increase or inc) pulls a stitch from the row below and knits it again. Insert your right needle through the stitch directly below the next stitch on your left needle, from front to back. Slip that loop onto your left needle, then knit it. You now have two stitches where you had one, and no hole appears.

This method is invisible because you are not creating a new loop — you are borrowing one that already exists. The trade-off is that it takes a little longer than a yarn-over and requires you to be precise about which stitch you grab. If you miss and pull from the wrong row, the increase will look uneven.

The lifted increase works best for small increases, like adding a stitch or two at the edge of a sleeve. For larger increases across a row, the make-one is usually faster because you do not have to hunt for stitches in the row below.

The make-one increase: most invisible for shaping

A make-one increase (written as M1 or M1L and M1R in patterns) uses the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches. Insert your left needle under this strand from front to back, then knit through the back loop of the new loop you created. This twists the stitch and closes the hole that would otherwise appear.

The make-one is the most invisible increase because the new stitch blends seamlessly into the fabric. It is also the most common in shaping instructions — when a pattern says to increase evenly across a row, it usually means make-one increases. The downside is that it requires you to see and grab a thin strand, which takes practice to do consistently.

Some patterns specify M1L (make-one left) or M1R (make-one right), which means you insert the needle from different directions to make the increase lean left or right. This matters for symmetrical shaping, like increasing on both sides of a center stitch. If your pattern does not specify a direction, either works.

When to use each method

Follow your pattern first. If it says YO, use a yarn-over. If it says M1, use a make-one. If it says inc, use a lifted increase. Patterns are written with a specific increase in mind because each one affects how the fabric looks and how the stitches sit on the needle.

If you are improvising — adding stitches to a pattern that does not specify — use a make-one for shaping you want to hide, like increasing for a sleeve cap or a sweater body. Use a yarn-over if you want the increase to show as part of the design. Use a lifted increase if you are adding just one or two stitches at an edge.

The location also matters. Increases at the very edge of your work (within one stitch of the edge) are usually lifted increases because they are easier to work into a seam later. Increases in the middle of a row are usually make-ones or yarn-overs, depending on whether you want them visible.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common mistake is twisting the new stitch the wrong way, which makes it sit backwards on the needle. If your increase looks loose or uneven, you likely did not twist it tightly enough. On your next row, knit through the back loop of that stitch to correct it.

Another mistake is losing track of where you are in the increase. If you are doing a make-one and you grab the wrong strand, the increase will sit in the wrong place. Count your stitches after each increase row to catch this early. If you find a mistake two rows later, it is usually easier to frog back (pull out the yarn and reknit) than to try to fix it in place.

Yarn-overs sometimes close up if you do not knit the next stitch firmly. If your yarn-over hole is too small or disappears, knit the stitch after it with slightly more tension. The hole will open up on the next row.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add stitches in the middle of a row?

Yes. All three methods work in the middle of a row. Yarn-overs and make-ones are most common because they do not require you to reach down to the row below. Lifted increases work too but are slower when you need to add many stitches at once.

What if my pattern says "increase 1" but does not say which method?

Use a make-one if the increase is in the middle of the fabric and you want it invisible. Use a lifted increase if it is at the edge. If the pattern is from a reputable source and does not specify, either method usually works — the pattern designer just did not care which one you chose.

Do I count the new stitch right away?

Yes. As soon as you create the new stitch, it counts toward your total. If a pattern says you should have 50 stitches after increasing, count your needle and you should see 50, not 49 plus the increase you just made.

Why does my make-one increase look like a hole?

You likely did not twist the stitch. When you insert your needle under the strand between stitches, make sure you go through the back loop of the new loop, not the front. Twisting it closes the hole. If you went through the front loop, the stitch will sit open.

Can I add multiple stitches in one spot?

Yes, but do not do all of them in the same stitch. If you need to add three stitches, spread them across three consecutive stitches — one increase per stitch. This keeps the shaping even. If you add all three in one spot, you will create a bulge.