The simplest way to add a second ball of yarn
The easiest method is to tie the new yarn directly to the old yarn using a straightforward knot, then weave the loose ends into your finished fabric later. Knot the two yarns together at the edge of your work (not in the middle of a row), pull the knot snug against your needles, and keep knitting. The knot stays hidden because you'll bury those tail ends under your stitches during finishing.
This method works best if you're knitting something that will be seamed or blocked, because the weaving-in step is forgiving. It's also the fastest approach when you're in the middle of a project and don't want to stop and think through technique.
The downside: if you pull the knot too tight, it can create a lump in your fabric. If you pull it too loose, the knot can slip. The sweet spot is a knot that sits snug but not strangled—you should be able to slide it slightly along the yarn without it coming undone.
Key Takeaways
- A straightforward overhand knot at the edge of your work is the fastest way to join yarn and works well for most projects.
- The Russian join creates an invisible seam by threading yarn through itself and requires no knot, making it ideal for visible edges.
- The spit splice works only with animal fibers like wool and merino, and bonds the two yarns into one continuous strand.
- Weave in all loose ends before washing or wearing your finished piece, or the knots may slip and unravel.
The Russian join for invisible seams
If you're knitting something where the yarn join will be visible—like a blanket edge or the side of a sweater—the Russian join hides the connection completely. Thread the tail of your old yarn onto a tapestry needle, then push the needle through the center of the new yarn for about an inch, going lengthwise through the yarn's core. Pull the old yarn through, leaving a loop. Repeat in reverse: thread the new yarn's tail through the old yarn's core, then back through the loop you just made.
This method takes about a minute and creates a join that looks like a single continuous strand. The two yarns bond slightly as you pull them tight, and the connection is strong enough that it won't slip during knitting. The downside is that it only works cleanly with yarn that has a hollow core—smooth, tightly spun yarns work best, while fuzzy or loosely spun yarn can be fiddly.
After you've completed the join, trim the loose ends close to the yarn. Unlike the knot method, you don't need to weave in tails because there's nothing sticking out.
The spit splice for wool and animal fibers
The spit splice (also called a wet splice) works only with animal fibers like wool, merino, alpaca, or mohair. It bonds the two yarn ends together by slightly felting them. Overlap the last inch of your old yarn and the first inch of your new yarn, then wet both ends with water or saliva and rub them together between your palms for 10 to 15 seconds. The friction and moisture cause the fibers to cling to each other, creating a join that's nearly as strong as the yarn itself.
This method is invisible and creates no lump or knot. Once the join dries, it holds permanently. The catch: it only works with natural animal fibers. Acrylic, cotton, and synthetic blends won't felt, so the splice will fall apart as soon as you start knitting.
Test the join by tugging gently on both sides. If it holds firm, you're ready to knit. If it feels weak, rub it again for a few more seconds. Let it dry completely before you pick up your needles.
When to join yarn at the edge versus mid-row
Always join yarn at the edge of your work—at the beginning or end of a row—rather than in the middle. A join in the middle of a row creates a weak point that can snap under tension, and it's much harder to hide the loose ends later.
If you're close to running out of yarn and the next row is long, finish the current row and join at the start of the next one. If you're very close to the end of a row, you can usually squeeze out enough yarn to finish it, then join fresh yarn for the next row. A good rule of thumb: if you have less than three times the width of your knitting left in yarn, it's time to join a new ball.
Weaving in loose ends after you finish
Once your piece is complete, you'll have loose tails from the knot or join sticking out. Thread each tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the back of your stitches for about two inches, going in a zigzag pattern so the end doesn't pull loose. Trim the tail close to the fabric.
For a knot join, weave in both the old yarn's tail and the new yarn's tail. For a Russian join or spit splice, there may be almost nothing to weave in—just trim any tiny bits that stick out. If you're seaming pieces together, you can hide the tails inside the seam itself, which is even faster.
Don't skip this step. Loose ends can work their way out of the fabric over time, especially if the piece gets washed or worn frequently. Weaving them in securely keeps your project intact for years.
Joining yarn in the middle of a colorwork pattern
If you're working stripes or color changes, you may need to join yarn in the middle of a row. In this case, tie the knot on the wrong side of your work (the side that faces away from you) so the knot is hidden. Carry the old yarn along the edge as you knit with the new color, then pick up the old yarn again when you need it.
For colorwork, the Russian join is often worth the extra minute because it creates a neater edge. If you're working a pattern where the edge will be seamed, a straightforward knot is fine and faster. Test your tension after joining—colorwork stitches can look uneven if the join is too tight or too loose.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I tie a knot in the middle of a row?
You can, but it's not ideal. The knot creates a weak point that can snap if you pull too hard while knitting. If you must join mid-row, tie the knot on the wrong side of your work so it's hidden, and weave in the tails very securely after you finish.
What if my yarn knot keeps slipping?
The knot is too loose. Untie it, pull both yarn ends tight, and retie. The knot should sit snug against your needles without being so tight that it distorts the yarn. If it still slips, try a double knot instead of a single one.
Does the spit splice work with acrylic yarn?
No. Spit splicing only works with animal fibers like wool, merino, and alpaca. Acrylic and synthetic yarns won't felt, so the splice will fall apart. Use a knot or Russian join instead.
How do I hide a yarn join in a sweater seam?
Position the join so it falls exactly where two pieces will be seamed together. When you sew the seam, the stitches will cover the knot or join completely. This is one of the neatest ways to hide a join, especially if you're seaming a sweater or cardigan.
What if I run out of yarn before I finish a row?
Rip back to the last complete row and join fresh yarn at the start of the next row. It's faster and neater than trying to join mid-row. You'll lose only a few stitches, and the join will be much stronger.