Adding stitches means creating new loops on your needle mid-project
Adding stitches during knitting is how you increase the width of your piece — whether you're shaping a sleeve, expanding a neckline, or building a garment from a narrow cast-on. Unlike casting on at the very beginning, you add stitches while working rows, using yarn already attached to your needles. The most common methods work by looping yarn over your needle or pulling new loops from existing stitches.
The method you choose depends on where you want the new stitch to sit and whether you want it to be invisible or decorative. Some techniques create a small hole (useful for lace patterns), while others blend seamlessly into your fabric. All of them follow the same basic principle: you're creating a new loop and securing it to your working needle.
Key Takeaways
- The yarn-over method creates a new stitch by wrapping yarn around your needle and is the fastest technique for adding stitches.
- The lifted increase pulls a loop from the row below and knits it, creating a stitch that blends into your fabric without a visible hole.
- The make-one increase (M1) creates a stitch from the horizontal strand between two existing stitches and is nearly invisible when done correctly.
- You can add one stitch at a time within a row, or add multiple stitches at the edge of your piece by casting on before you start knitting that row.
- Counting your stitches after adding them prevents mistakes from compounding across the next several rows.
The yarn-over method for quick increases
A yarn-over (often written as YO in patterns) is the simplest way to add a stitch. You wrap the working yarn around your needle without knitting it into an existing stitch. This creates both a new stitch and a small decorative hole, which is why yarn-overs appear in lace patterns.
To work a yarn-over on a knit row: bring your working yarn to the front of your work (between the needles), then knit the next stitch as normal. The yarn wraps around the needle as you do, creating the new loop. On a purl row, bring the yarn to the back of your work, then purl the next stitch. The yarn-over sits on your needle ready for the next row.
The yarn-over is fast because it requires no extra steps beyond moving your yarn. However, the hole it creates is visible, so use this method only when a decorative hole fits your pattern. If you want to add stitches without holes, use one of the invisible methods instead.
The lifted increase for stitches that blend in
A lifted increase (also called a bar increase) pulls a loop from the row directly below your working row and knits it as a new stitch. This creates a stitch that sits flush with your fabric and leaves no hole.
To work a lifted increase on a knit row: insert your left needle from bottom to top through the stitch directly below the first stitch on your left needle. Knit this lifted loop onto your right needle as you would a normal stitch. You now have two stitches where one was before — the original stitch and the lifted one. Continue knitting across the row as normal.
The lifted increase takes a few extra seconds because you have to locate and lift the stitch below, but the result is nearly invisible. This method works well when you're increasing at the edges of a piece or spreading increases across a row. The small bump created by the lifted stitch sits directly below the new stitch, so it's less noticeable than other methods.
The make-one increase for invisible shaping
A make-one increase (M1) creates a new stitch from the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two existing stitches. When done correctly, it's the most invisible increase because the new stitch integrates into the fabric without any hole or bump.
To work a make-one increase: locate the horizontal strand running between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch on your left needle. Insert your left needle from front to back under this strand (or from back to front, depending on which direction you want the stitch to lean). Knit through the lifted strand. The new stitch sits on your right needle, and the strand has become part of your fabric.
Make-one increases are slightly slower than yarn-overs because you must identify and lift the correct strand. However, they're worth the extra care when you want shaping that doesn't show. Many sweater patterns use make-one increases along the sides or at the underarm because the increases disappear into the finished garment. If your pattern specifies M1L (make-one left-leaning) or M1R (make-one right-leaning), the direction you insert your needle determines which way the new stitch leans.
Adding multiple stitches at the edge of your piece
When you need to add several stitches at once — such as when shaping a sleeve cap or adding stitches for a button band — you cast on new stitches at the edge of your piece rather than adding them one at a time within rows. This is faster than working increases across multiple rows and creates a cleaner edge.
To add stitches at the edge: work your row until you reach the point where you need new stitches. Using the cable cast-on or another one-handed method, cast the required number of stitches onto your working needle. Then continue knitting across the newly cast-on stitches and the rest of your row. The new stitches sit at the edge of your piece and are ready to knit on the next row.
Edge cast-ons are visible, so they work best when the edge will be seamed or hidden (such as under a sleeve cap). If you're adding stitches at an edge that will show in the finished piece, use increases spread across several rows instead, which creates a more gradual and less obvious shaping line.
Counting and checking your stitches after increasing
After you add stitches, count them before you start the next row. This catches mistakes when ready, when they're easiest to fix. Slip your stitches onto a stitch marker or a spare needle, count them, and slip them back. If your count is off, you can usually identify the missed increase or extra stitch by looking at where the pattern breaks.
If you've added the wrong number of stitches, you have two options: drop back to the row where you added them and redo that row, or continue and adjust your stitch count on the next increase row. Dropping back is slower but more accurate. Adjusting forward works if you're only off by one or two stitches and have more increases coming.
Counting becomes especially important if you're adding stitches across multiple rows (such as one increase every other row for ten rows). A single missed increase compounds across the remaining rows, so catching it early saves you from unraveling several rows later.
Common mistakes when adding stitches
The most common mistake is accidentally creating a yarn-over when you meant to work an invisible increase. This happens when you move your yarn to the front or back of your work without realizing it. To avoid this, keep your yarn in the position it needs to be for your next stitch before you work the increase.
Another frequent error is lifting the wrong stitch when working a lifted increase. You want the stitch directly below the first stitch on your left needle, not a stitch from two rows down or from the side. Slow down and use your needle tip to isolate the correct stitch before you lift it.
Twisted stitches also happen when you insert your needle in the wrong direction during a make-one increase. If your new stitch looks crossed or tilted, you inserted the needle backward. On the next row, you can untwist it by knitting through the back loop, or you can drop the stitch and redo it if it bothers you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add stitches in the middle of a row?
Yes. Yarn-overs, lifted increases, and make-one increases all work in the middle of a row. You can also cast on stitches in the middle of a row using a cable cast-on, though this creates a visible edge. Most patterns that add stitches mid-row use increases rather than cast-ons because increases blend better.
What's the difference between M1L and M1R?
M1L (make-one left-leaning) and M1R (make-one right-leaning) refer to the direction the new stitch leans. M1L is worked by inserting your needle from back to front under the strand, while M1R is worked from front to back. The direction you choose affects how the increase looks and is usually specified in your pattern for symmetrical shaping.
Do I need to increase on every row?
No. Most patterns space increases out across multiple rows — for example, one increase every other row or every fourth row. Increasing on every row creates very fast shaping and is usually reserved for specific design effects like a dramatic flare. Your pattern will tell you exactly when to increase.
What happens if I add stitches but forget to count them?
You'll likely notice the mistake within a few rows because your stitch count won't match your pattern. If you catch it early, drop back to the increase row and redo it. If you don't notice until several rows later, you may have to unravel back to that point. Counting when ready after increasing prevents this problem.
Can I use a yarn-over if my pattern doesn't call for a hole?
Technically yes, but the hole will be visible and may not match your pattern's intended look. If your pattern specifies a particular increase method, use that method. If you want to substitute a different increase, choose one that creates a similar visual effect — swap yarn-overs for other yarn-overs, or swap invisible increases for other invisible increases.