Adding yarn means joining a new strand to the old one so you can keep knitting without breaking your work
When your working yarn runs short, you have three main ways to join a new strand: the weave-in method (the most common), the knot method (fastest but visible), and the Russian join (invisible and permanent). Which one you choose depends on how much yarn you have left, whether you're in the middle of a row, and how much you care about a tiny join showing in the finished piece.
Most knitters use the weave-in method because it works on any yarn weight and any stitch pattern. You straightforward overlap the old and new yarn for a few stitches, then weave the loose ends through your work later. It takes a few extra minutes but creates a join that won't come undone.
Key Takeaways
- The weave-in method works by knitting with both the old and new yarn held together for three to four stitches, then dropping the old yarn and continuing with the new one.
- You can add yarn at the end of a row (easiest) or in the middle of a row (less visible in the finished piece).
- After you finish knitting, you thread the loose ends through a tapestry needle and weave them horizontally through the backs of nearby stitches to find them.
- The Russian join works only on wool and animal fibers because it relies on the fibers felting together when you split the yarn and pull it through itself.
- A straightforward knot is fastest but creates a visible bump that shows in most finished pieces, so use it only for pieces you'll seam or where the join will be hidden.
The weave-in method: how to do it while you knit
Lay your new yarn alongside your working yarn so both strands are ready to use. Knit the next three to four stitches using both the old yarn and the new yarn held together as if they were one strand. You'll see the stitches get slightly thicker where both yarns pass through.
After those three to four stitches, drop the old yarn and continue knitting with only the new yarn. The old yarn is now anchored into your work and won't pull free. You now have two loose ends—one from the old yarn and one from the new yarn—hanging from the same spot in your knitting.
Don't cut the old yarn yet. Leave at least a 4-inch tail so you have something to thread through a needle later. Cut the new yarn's tail to the same length. You'll weave both ends in after you finish the piece or when you reach a natural stopping point.
Adding yarn at the end of a row versus the middle
Adding yarn at the end of a row is simpler because you can see exactly where the join sits and you're not trying to manage stitches in the middle of a pattern. Finish your row, then at the start of the next row, lay the new yarn alongside the old one and knit those first three to four stitches with both strands.
Adding yarn in the middle of a row is less visible in the finished piece because the join sits inside the fabric rather than at an edge. To do this, straightforward lay the new yarn alongside the old one mid-row, knit three to four stitches with both, then drop the old yarn and keep going. The join will be buried inside the stitches and almost invisible once you weave in the ends.
If you're working a colorwork pattern or stripes, try to add yarn at a color change if you can. A join at a color boundary is much less noticeable than one in the middle of a solid color.
Weaving in the loose ends after you finish
Once you've finished your piece or reached a good stopping point, thread one of the loose yarn tails through a tapestry needle (a blunt needle with a large eye). Starting about an inch away from where the join sits, weave the needle horizontally through the back loops of three to four stitches in the row above or below the join. This anchors the tail into your work.
After you've woven through those stitches, weave back in the opposite direction through a different set of stitches nearby, creating a small zigzag path. This double-weaving prevents the end from pulling free if the first path gets snagged. Trim the tail close to the fabric—it won't unravel because it's now locked inside the stitches.
Repeat the same process with the second loose end. When both ends are woven in, gently stretch and relax the fabric around the join a few times. This helps the stitches settle and makes the join even less visible.
The Russian join: for wool and animal fibers only
The Russian join creates an invisible, permanent connection because the fibers actually felt together. It only works on yarn made from animal fibers—wool, alpaca, mohair, angora—because those fibers have scales that lock together when wet and agitated. It does not work on cotton, acrylic, linen, or any plant-based or synthetic yarn.
To do a Russian join, thread the new yarn through a tapestry needle. Insert the needle into the old yarn about an inch from the end, splitting the fibers as you go, and pull the needle through so the new yarn is now threaded inside the old yarn. Then thread the old yarn through the needle, insert it into the new yarn, and pull it through the same way. The two yarns are now looped through each other.
Trim both tails very short—about a quarter inch—and wet the join under warm water. Rub it gently between your fingers or on a towel for a few seconds. The fibers will felt together and the join becomes permanent and invisible. Let it dry completely before you start knitting with it.
The knot method: fastest but visible
Tie a straightforward overhand knot with the old yarn and new yarn held together. Pull it tight so the knot sits close to your work. Continue knitting with the new yarn, leaving the knot behind as you go.
This method is the fastest, but the knot creates a visible bump on the back of your piece. Use it only when the join will be hidden—inside a seam, at the edge that will be folded over, or on a piece you don't mind having a small lump in. For visible pieces like scarves or blankets, the weave-in method looks much better.
Troubleshooting common join problems
If your join is too loose and stitches are slipping out, you didn't knit with both strands long enough. Next time, hold both yarns together for five or six stitches instead of three or four. A loose join will unravel as you wear or wash the piece.
If the join creates a visible thick spot that doesn't smooth out after weaving in the ends, try weaving the tails in a different direction—horizontally instead of vertically, or through a row that's further away from the join itself. Sometimes moving the weaving path makes the bump disappear.
If you're adding yarn in the middle of a row and the new yarn keeps splitting or shredding, slow down and make sure you're holding both strands evenly. Uneven tension makes the join look messy. If the yarn is very fuzzy or delicate, use a slightly larger needle size for just those three to four stitches where you're holding both strands together.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add yarn in the middle of a stitch?
No—always add yarn between stitches or at the start of a row. If you try to join in the middle of a stitch, the old yarn will pull free and unravel. Wait until you've completed a stitch, then lay the new yarn alongside the old one and knit the next stitch with both strands.
How much yarn should I leave as a tail when I cut?
Leave at least 4 inches on both the old yarn and the new yarn. If your yarn is very thin or delicate, leave 6 inches. You need enough length to thread through a tapestry needle and weave through several stitches without running out of tail before you finish.
What if I run out of yarn in the middle of a row and can't add more?
Rip back to the end of the previous row, add your new yarn at the row start, and knit forward again. It's faster and cleaner than trying to add yarn mid-row when you're panicking about running out. You'll lose maybe five minutes of work but gain a much neater join.
Does the join show in the finished piece?
With the weave-in method, the join is barely visible once the ends are woven in and the piece is worn or washed. The Russian join is completely invisible. A knot will always show as a small bump on the back. If the join is on a visible edge, use the Russian join or weave-in method rather than a knot.
Can I add yarn on a purl row the same way as a knit row?
Yes—the method is identical. Lay both yarns alongside each other and purl the next three to four stitches with both strands held together, then drop the old yarn and continue with the new one. The join works the same way on any stitch type.