The Basic Method: Weave in the Old Yarn and Start the New One
When you run out of yarn mid-project, you have two main choices: tie the yarns together with a knot, or overlap them so the old yarn and new yarn work as one strand for a few stitches. The overlap method — called splicing — creates a stronger join and leaves you with fewer ends to weave in later. Most knitters prefer it for visible projects like sweaters or blankets.
To splice, drop the old yarn and lay the new yarn alongside it. Knit the next 3 to 5 stitches using both strands held together as if they were one. Then drop the old yarn and continue with the new yarn alone. The overlap stitches will look slightly thicker, but they blend in once you weave the ends in. This method works best when you catch the transition in a purl row or a textured stitch pattern, where the slight thickness is less noticeable.
Key Takeaways
- Splicing — knitting 3 to 5 stitches with both the old and new yarn held together — creates a stronger join than tying a knot and is the preferred method for most projects.
- When you tie a knot instead, use a square knot, trim the tails to about half an inch, and weave them in when ready so the knot does not slip during future rows.
- The Russian join lets you thread the new yarn through the old yarn's plies without any knot, but it only works with yarn that has a loose, separable structure.
- Always add yarn at the beginning of a round or row rather than mid-round, so the join sits where you can control it and weave the ends in cleanly.
- Weave in the old and new yarn tails on the wrong side of the fabric using a tapestry needle, running each tail through at least 6 stitches in a zigzag pattern to lock it in place.
When to Add Yarn: Start of Round vs. Mid-Round
The easiest time to add yarn is at the start of a new round. When you are knitting in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles, you can straightforward drop the old yarn at the end of the round, pick up the new yarn, and keep going. The join sits at the edge of your work, where you will weave in the ends later.
If you run out of yarn mid-round, you have two options. You can finish the round with the old yarn (if you have just enough), or you can add the new yarn right where you are. Adding mid-round is messier because the join falls in the middle of a row, but it is not impossible. Splice the yarns together for 3 to 5 stitches, then continue. The join will be less visible if it lands on a purl side or in a textured stitch.
The Splicing Method: Step by Step
Lay the old yarn and new yarn side by side, with about 4 inches of each yarn overlapping. Hold both strands together between your thumb and forefinger as if they were a single strand. Knit the next 3 to 5 stitches using both yarns held as one. Your stitches will be slightly thicker during this overlap, but that is normal.
After you have knitted 3 to 5 stitches with both yarns, drop the old yarn and continue knitting with the new yarn alone. The old yarn tail will be secured inside the stitches you just made. Later, when you weave in the ends, you will run the old yarn tail through the back of those overlap stitches to lock it in place permanently. Do the same with the new yarn tail on the other side of the join.
Splicing works best with yarn that has some texture or fuzz, because the fibers grip each other. With very smooth, slippery yarn like silk or nylon, the overlap can slip during knitting. In that case, use a knot instead.
Tying a Knot: The Square Knot Method
If you prefer to tie the yarns together, use a square knot rather than a straightforward overhand knot. A square knot is flat and less likely to slip. Hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right hand. Cross the right yarn over the left, pull it under and back over to the right. Then cross the left yarn over the right, pull it under and back over to the left. Pull both yarn ends tight. The result is a flat, symmetrical knot.
Trim the tails to about half an inch on each side of the knot. Weave them in when ready on the wrong side of your work, running each tail through at least 6 stitches in a zigzag pattern. This locks the knot in place so it cannot slip during future rows. If you leave the tails loose, the knot can work itself undone as you continue knitting.
Square knots are visible and can create a small bump in your fabric, so they work best in projects where the join will be hidden — like the inside of a hat, the underarm of a sweater, or a blanket that will be folded. For visible areas, splicing is the better choice.
The Russian Join: A Knotless Option
The Russian join is a method that requires no knot at all. It works by threading the new yarn through the plies (the twisted strands) of the old yarn, and vice versa. This only works with yarn that has a loose, separable structure — like most wool, cotton, and acrylic yarns. It does not work with tightly twisted yarn or yarn with a single ply.
To do a Russian join, thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the last 2 inches of the old yarn, going lengthwise through the center of the yarn (splitting the plies). Pull the new yarn through. Then thread the old yarn onto the needle and do the same thing in reverse, going through the new yarn. Pull both yarns snug. The two yarns are now locked together without a knot.
The Russian join is invisible and creates no bump, but it takes practice to do it smoothly. If you pull too hard, you can split the yarn fibers. If you do not pull hard enough, the join can slip. It is worth learning if you knit a lot, but splicing is faster for most people.
Weaving in the Ends After You Join
Once you have joined the yarns and finished your project, you need to weave in the loose tails so they do not unravel. Thread each tail onto a tapestry needle. On the wrong side of your work, run the needle through the back of at least 6 stitches in a zigzag pattern — going up through one stitch, down through the next, and so on. This locks the tail in place.
For extra security, change direction halfway through and weave back through a few stitches in the opposite direction. This creates friction and makes it nearly impossible for the tail to slip out. Trim the remaining tail close to the fabric, leaving about a quarter inch. If you trim too short, the end can poke through later.
If you used the splicing method, you will have two tails to weave in — one from the old yarn and one from the new yarn. Weave them in opposite directions so they do not bunch up in the same spot. This distributes the bulk and keeps the join invisible.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add yarn in the middle of a round?
Yes, but it is messier than adding at the start of a round. The join will fall in the middle of a row instead of at the edge. Splice the yarns together for 3 to 5 stitches to make the join as strong as possible. The join will be less visible if it lands on a purl side or in a textured stitch pattern.
What if my yarn knot comes undone while I am knitting?
Weave in the tails when ready after tying the knot, before you knit any further rows. This locks the knot in place. If the knot slips before you weave in the ends, you will have to unravel back to the join, retie it, and start again. A square knot is less likely to slip than an overhand knot.
Does the join show in the finished project?
A spliced join is nearly invisible once the ends are woven in, especially if the overlap lands on a purl row or textured stitch. A square knot creates a small bump that may be visible in smooth, light-colored yarn. A Russian join is invisible but takes more practice. The visibility depends on your yarn type and where the join falls in your pattern.
How many stitches should I knit with both yarns held together?
Three to five stitches is the standard range. Fewer than three stitches may not lock the old yarn in place securely. More than five stitches creates a noticeably thick section that is harder to hide. Adjust based on your yarn weight — thicker yarn may need only 3 stitches, while thin yarn may need 5.
Can I use the Russian join with all yarn types?
No. The Russian join only works with yarn that has a loose, separable structure, like most wool, cotton, and acrylic. It does not work with tightly twisted yarn, single-ply yarn, or yarn with a fuzzy or hairy surface. If you are unsure, try splicing or a square knot instead.