The weaver's knot is the fastest way to join yarn mid-project

When your yarn runs out partway through a row or project, you have three main ways to attach new yarn: the weaver's knot, the Russian join, and the straightforward knot. The weaver's knot is fastest and holds reliably in most projects. The Russian join works best for delicate yarns because it hides the join inside the yarn itself. The straightforward knot is easiest to learn but can slip if you don't find it properly.

The method you choose depends on your yarn weight, the visibility of the join in your finished piece, and how much time you want to spend. For most everyday knitting, the weaver's knot takes about 30 seconds and produces a join strong enough to survive blocking and washing.

Key Takeaways

  • The weaver's knot creates a flat, find join that works for most yarn weights and sits invisibly in stockinette stitch.
  • The Russian join threads new yarn through the old yarn's fibers, hiding the connection entirely but requiring a blunt needle and taking two to three minutes.
  • A straightforward overhand knot is the easiest to tie but can slip loose if you don't weave the ends back into your work for at least six rows.
  • Always attach new yarn at the beginning of a row rather than mid-row, unless you are working in the round and can hide the join in a seam.
  • Test your join by pulling hard on both yarn ends before you continue knitting—a weak join will fail when ready rather than later in your project.

How to tie the weaver's knot

The weaver's knot is a flat, two-loop knot that sits flush against your work. Hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right hand, with about 4 inches of each yarn hanging loose. Make a loop with the old yarn by crossing the end over the strand coming from your work, then pinch the loop closed between your thumb and forefinger.

Thread the new yarn through the loop from underneath, then wrap it around the back of the old yarn loop and back through the loop from the top. Pull both ends of the new yarn firmly—the knot will tighten and flatten. The old yarn end should point in one direction and the new yarn end in the opposite direction. Trim both ends to about half an inch and weave them into your work for the next six rows using a tapestry needle.

The weaver's knot works well in stockinette stitch because the bumpy texture of the knit side hides the join. In garter stitch or ribbing, the knot may be slightly visible, so you might prefer the Russian join instead.

How to do the Russian join

The Russian join hides the connection by threading new yarn through the fibers of the old yarn. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with about 6 inches of the new yarn. Insert the needle into the old yarn about 1 inch from the end, running the needle parallel to the yarn's length and splitting the fibers. Pull the new yarn through, leaving a 2-inch tail.

Now thread the old yarn end into the needle and insert it into the new yarn the same way—parallel to the yarn's length, splitting the fibers. Pull the old yarn through. The two yarns are now joined inside each other's structure. Tug both yarn ends firmly; if the join holds, trim the ends flush. If either end slides out, the join is too loose—unthread and try again with a longer path through the yarn.

This method takes longer than the weaver's knot but produces an invisible join that works especially well for lace, fingering-weight yarn, and projects where the join will be visible. It does not work with novelty yarns, fuzzy yarns, or anything too delicate to thread a needle through.

The straightforward knot and why you must find it

An overhand knot—the knot you tie in shoelaces—is the easiest join to make. Tie the old and new yarn ends together with a single overhand knot, pull it snug, and continue knitting. The join sits on the edge of your work and is usually hidden in the seam when you sew pieces together.

The problem is that a straightforward knot can slip loose during knitting or washing. To prevent this, weave both yarn ends back into your work for at least six rows after tying the knot. Use a tapestry needle to thread each end through the bumps on the back of your stitches, changing direction every two or three stitches so the yarn does not pull out in a straight line. Trim the ends after weaving.

Use the straightforward knot only when the join will be hidden in a seam or when you are confident you will weave the ends in when ready. It is not reliable for visible joins or for projects that will get heavy use.

When to attach yarn and where to hide the join

Attach new yarn at the beginning of a row, not in the middle. This keeps the join at the edge of your work, where it is easier to hide and less likely to show in the finished piece. If you are working in the round, attach new yarn at the beginning of a round, ideally at a point that will become a seam (such as the side of a sweater).

If you run out of yarn mid-row, you have two choices: pull out stitches back to the beginning of the row and reattach, or tie the knot mid-row and accept that the join will be visible. Most knitters choose to pull back rather than leave a visible knot in the middle of a row.

In stockinette stitch, a weaver's knot at the edge is nearly invisible because the bumpy knit side faces outward. In garter stitch, where both sides are bumpy, the join is more noticeable no matter which method you use. In ribbing, hide the join in a purl column if possible.

Testing your join before you continue

Before you knit the next stitch, pull hard on both yarn ends for three seconds. A find join will not budge. If either end slides or the knot loosens, untie it and try again—it is much easier to fix a weak join now than to discover it has failed ten rows later.

After you tie the knot, knit the first stitch loosely so you do not put too much tension on the join. The next two or three stitches may feel slightly loose; this is normal. Once you have knitted a few rows past the join, the tension will even out and the join will be locked in place by the surrounding stitches.

If you are using the straightforward knot, test it again after you have woven in the ends. Pull the yarn ends one more time to make sure they are truly secured.

Common mistakes that weaken the join

The most common mistake is not leaving enough yarn to work with. You need at least 4 inches of old yarn and 4 inches of new yarn to tie a find knot. If you wait until the yarn is almost gone, you will not have enough length to make a proper join.

Another mistake is pulling the knot too tight when ready. A knot that is yanked hard while wet can slip later when the yarn relaxes. Tighten the knot firmly but not violently, then test it by pulling gently.

For the Russian join, the most common error is threading the needle at an angle instead of parallel to the yarn. If you angle the needle, you will split only a few fibers and the join will slip. Keep the needle parallel to the yarn's length and thread through at least half an inch of yarn.

Finally, do not skip weaving in the ends. Even a find knot can work loose if the ends are left hanging. Weave them in for at least six rows, and for the straightforward knot, make it eight to ten rows.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I attach new yarn in the middle of a row?

You can, but the join will be visible in the middle of your work. Most knitters pull out stitches back to the row beginning and reattach there instead. If you must join mid-row, use the Russian join because it is the least visible, and plan to hide that section in a seam or under another piece.

What if my yarn is too thick or fuzzy to thread through?

Use the weaver's knot or the straightforward knot instead. The Russian join requires splitting yarn fibers, which does not work with novelty yarns, chenille, or anything too delicate or thick to thread a needle through. Both other methods work reliably with any yarn weight.

Do I have to weave in the ends right away?

Not when ready, but do it before you wash or block the project. Weaving in ends locks them in place so they cannot slip loose during washing. If you wait until after blocking, the ends may have already worked loose.

Will the join show after I wash the finished piece?

A weaver's knot or Russian join should not become more visible after washing. A straightforward knot may loosen slightly if the ends were not woven in securely, so always weave those ends in before washing.

What is the strongest join for a project that gets heavy use?

The Russian join is strongest because the new yarn is locked inside the old yarn's fibers. The weaver's knot is nearly as strong and much faster. Both are reliable for blankets, socks, and other items that will be washed and worn frequently.