Carrying yarn up the side keeps your edges neat and avoids long floats
Carrying yarn up the side means weaving or twisting unused yarn into the edge stitches as you knit, so it travels with your work instead of floating loose inside. This matters because long floats—strands of yarn running several rows without being anchored—create pockets of air, make your fabric uneven, and can snag when you wear the piece. Carrying yarn up the side solves this by keeping tension consistent and making your edges look finished.
You use this technique most often when you're working stripes, colorwork, or when you've cut yarn and will pick it up again several rows later. The two main methods are weaving in (threading the carried yarn through edge stitches) and twisting (wrapping it around your working yarn). Both work; weaving is neater, twisting is faster.
Key Takeaways
- Weaving yarn up the side means threading the carried yarn through your edge stitch on every other row, creating a chain that holds it in place.
- Twisting the carried yarn around your working yarn every two or three rows is faster but can show on the outside if your edge stitch is loose.
- Tension on the carried yarn should match your working yarn so the edge doesn't pucker or bulge.
- Practice on a swatch first, because the technique feels awkward until your hands learn the motion.
The weaving method: threading yarn through edge stitches
Weaving is the most common method and gives the cleanest result. On the row where you want to anchor the carried yarn, insert your needle into the edge stitch as usual. Before you pull the working yarn through, lay the carried yarn across the front of that stitch, then pull your working yarn through both the stitch and the loop of carried yarn. The carried yarn is now woven into the edge.
Do this on every other row (every right-side row if you're working flat, or every other round if you're working in the round). Skipping rows prevents the carried yarn from bunching up and creating a thick, stiff edge. On the rows you skip, the carried yarn straightforward hangs loose—it will be caught by the next weaving row.
The motion takes practice. Your hands will feel clumsy at first because you're managing three things at once: the working yarn, the carried yarn, and the stitch itself. Slow down and do a few rows on a practice swatch. Once your hands know the rhythm, you'll be able to weave without thinking.
The twisting method: wrapping carried yarn around working yarn
Twisting is faster than weaving and works well if your edge stitches are tight enough that the twist won't show. Every two or three rows, bring the carried yarn to the front of your work, wrap it once around your working yarn (going under, then over), and continue knitting. The wrap anchors the carried yarn without threading it through a stitch.
Twist on every other row or every third row, depending on how many rows you're carrying the yarn. If you're carrying it up only three or four rows, one twist in the middle is enough. If you're carrying it up eight rows or more, twist every two or three rows so no single float gets too long.
The downside of twisting is that if your edge stitch is loose or your tension on the twist is uneven, the twist can peek out from the side of your finished piece. This is especially noticeable on a garment where the side seam will be visible. Test this method on a swatch in your yarn and stitch pattern before using it on a project where the edge matters.
Tension on the carried yarn matters more than the method
Whether you weave or twist, the carried yarn should be as loose as your working yarn. If you pull it too tight, your edge will pucker and curl inward. If you leave it too loose, it will create a sloppy, uneven edge and the floats inside will be too long.
The easiest way to get this right is to pretend the carried yarn is also a stitch you're knitting. Don't yank it; let it flow at the same tension as everything else. If your edge still looks tight after a few rows, loosen your grip slightly on the next row. If it looks loose and wavy, tighten up a little. You'll find the sweet spot within a few rows.
One common mistake is carrying the yarn too tight on the very first row. This creates a tight edge that won't match the rest of the piece. Start loose and adjust as you go.
Carrying multiple colors at once
If you're working a striped pattern where you'll use the same two colors over and over, carry both colors up the side instead of cutting and rejoining. This saves time and avoids the weak spots that come from tying on new yarn.
Alternate which color you weave or twist on each anchor row. On row one, weave the color you're not using. On row two, weave the other color. This distributes the carried yarn evenly and prevents one color from bunching up while the other hangs loose.
If you're carrying more than two colors, the edge can get thick and stiff. In that case, cut the yarn you're not using and weave in the ends later—it's worth the extra finishing work to keep the edge wearable.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
Puckering edge: You're pulling the carried yarn too tight. Loosen your grip and let it flow. If the edge is already puckered, you can gently stretch it out when you block the finished piece.
Loose, wavy edge: The carried yarn is too loose. On the next row, tighten up slightly. You can also go back and tighten individual floats by pulling gently on the carried yarn from the inside.
Visible twist or weave on the outside: Your edge stitch is too loose, or you're twisting instead of weaving. Switch to weaving, or tighten your edge stitch by working it one stitch in from the actual edge (slip the first stitch of every row instead of knitting it).
Carried yarn breaking or snagging: You're pulling it too hard when you weave or twist. Handle it gently, the same way you handle your working yarn.
When to carry yarn versus when to cut and rejoin
Carry yarn up the side if you'll use it again within 6 to 8 rows. Beyond that, the float gets too long and the edge gets too thick. Cut the yarn, leave a 6-inch tail, and weave in the ends later.
If you're working a pattern where the same color comes back every 4 rows, carrying is worth it. If the color won't show up again for 20 rows, cut it. The extra finishing work of weaving in ends is less trouble than managing a thick, stiff edge.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to weave on every row?
No. Weaving every other row is standard because it anchors the yarn without making the edge too thick. If you're carrying yarn up only 3 or 4 rows, one weave in the middle is enough. If you're going up 10 or more rows, weave every other row to keep floats short.
Can I weave on the wrong side instead of the right side?
Yes, and this is actually better if your edge will be visible. Weaving on the wrong side keeps the weaving hidden. If you're working flat, weave on the purl rows (wrong side). If you're working in the round, you'll have to weave on the knit rows, but the weaving will be on the inside of the tube.
What if I forget to carry the yarn and realize it three rows later?
You can go back and thread the carried yarn through those rows by hand using a tapestry needle. It's fiddly but it works. Thread the needle with the carried yarn and weave it through the edge stitches from the inside, going over and under the bumps. This is why practicing on a swatch first saves frustration later.
Does carrying yarn make the edge thicker?
It does slightly, but not noticeably if you're weaving every other row and keeping tension even. If you weave on every row or carry more than two colors, the edge will be noticeably thicker. For a garment where the edge will be seamed, this doesn't matter. For an edge that will be visible, weave every other row and test on a swatch first.
Is there a difference between carrying yarn on flat versus in-the-round knitting?
The technique is the same, but the timing is different. When knitting flat, weave on right-side rows (the rows you see). When knitting in the round, weave on every other round. The principle is the same: anchor the yarn every other row to keep floats short and edges even.