How to Cast On for Knitting in the Round

The Two Main Methods for Casting On in the Round

Casting on for circular knitting means putting stitches on a circular needle or a set of double-pointed needles so you can knit in a continuous spiral without turning your work. The two methods most knitters use are the long-tail cast-on joined in the round and the provisional cast-on. Both start with a regular cast-on on straight needles or one end of a circular needle, then you join the stitches into a circle and begin knitting.

The long-tail method is faster and works for most projects — hats, socks, sleeves, and the body of sweaters. The provisional method is better when you plan to pick up stitches later, such as when knitting a two-directional sweater or adding a ribbed edge after the main piece is done. Neither method is harder than the other; the choice depends on what comes next in your pattern.

Key Takeaways

Cast on your stitches on a straight needle or the tip of a circular needle using long-tail or another standard method, then transfer them to your circular needles or double-pointed needles.
Join the stitches into a circle by knitting the first stitch with the working yarn, making sure the cast-on edge does not twist around the needle.
Mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker so you know where each round starts and ends.
The long-tail cast-on is the fastest route for most in-the-round projects and leaves a neat edge without extra steps.

Casting On with the Long-Tail Method

The long-tail cast-on works the same way for in-the-round knitting as it does for flat knitting. You create a loop with your yarn, pull the working yarn through, and repeat until you have the number of stitches your pattern calls for. The only difference is what you do with the needle after you finish.

Cast on using your regular long-tail technique on a straight needle or on one tip of a circular needle. Once all stitches are on the needle, slide them toward the center of the circular needle if you are using one. Arrange the stitches so they sit evenly around the cable without bunching at one end. Check that the cast-on edge does not spiral or twist around the needle — the bumps should all face the same direction, toward the center of the circle.

Place a stitch marker on the right needle tip to mark the start of your first round. This marker stays in place as you knit and tells you when you have completed one full round. Knit the first stitch with your working yarn, pulling it snug so the join is tight. Continue knitting around the circle. After you finish the first round, slip the marker and keep going.

Using Double-Pointed Needles Instead of Circular Needles

Double-pointed needles (often called DPNs) come in sets of four or five and work well for small circumferences like sock cuffs and hat crowns. You cast on all your stitches on one needle, then divide them evenly across three or four needles, leaving one needle free to knit with.

Cast on your stitches on one double-pointed needle using long-tail or your preferred method. Slide the stitches toward the center of that needle. Slip roughly one-third of the stitches onto a second needle, another third onto a third needle, and leave the rest on the first needle. Arrange the three needles so they form a triangle, with the cast-on edge facing inward and the working yarn attached to the last stitch on the first needle.

Place a stitch marker on the working needle to mark the round. Knit the first stitch firmly, pulling the yarn tight to close any gap between the first and last stitches. Continue knitting around the triangle. When you finish knitting all stitches on one needle, that needle becomes your new working needle. The rhythm takes a few rounds to feel natural, but the join itself is no different from joining on a circular needle.

The Provisional Cast-On for Later Pickup

A provisional cast-on uses a temporary yarn or method to hold stitches so you can remove them later and knit in the opposite direction. This is useful when you want to knit a hat from the brim down and then pick up the cast-on edge to knit a ribbed cuff upward, or when you are building a sweater in pieces that will be grafted together.

The simplest provisional method is to cast on using a contrasting yarn color on a spare needle, then knit your first round with your working yarn. Once you finish the piece, you unravel the contrasting yarn and pick up the live stitches underneath. Another option is to use a crochet hook and waste yarn to create a chain, then pick up stitches into that chain. Both methods leave you with live stitches ready to knit in the opposite direction.

Cast on your stitches using the provisional method on a spare needle or crochet hook. Transfer them to your circular needle or double-pointed needles. Mark the beginning of the round and knit the first stitch to join. Knit your pattern as normal. When you are ready to pick up the cast-on edge, carefully unravel the waste yarn or contrasting yarn and place the live stitches back on a needle to continue knitting.

Avoiding Twisted Stitches at the Join

The most common mistake when casting on in the round is twisting the cast-on edge so that it spirals around the needle instead of sitting flat. This creates a visible twist in your finished piece that is hard to fix after you have knitted several rounds.

Before you knit the first stitch, lay your needles flat on a table and look at the cast-on edge from above. The bumps of the cast-on should all face the same direction — toward the center of the circle, not wrapping around the needle. If the edge is twisted, carefully slide the stitches off and reposition them. It takes only a moment to check and prevents hours of ripping back later.

Once you knit the first stitch and pull the yarn tight, the join is set. If you notice a twist after you have knitted a few rounds, your best option is to frog back to the cast-on and start again. Catching it before you go too far saves time.

Choosing Needle Size and Tightness at the Join

The join between the last cast-on stitch and the first knitted stitch is often looser than the rest of the round, creating a visible gap or slack stitches. You can minimize this by knitting the first stitch or two very firmly, pulling the working yarn tight as you go.

Some knitters use a needle one size smaller for the cast-on round, then switch to the correct size for the body of the piece. This creates a tighter join without requiring extra tension on the yarn. If your pattern calls for a specific needle size, try casting on on one size smaller and knitting the first round on that smaller needle, then switching to the correct size for round two.

Another option is to knit the first few stitches of the first round with both the working yarn and the tail yarn held together, then drop the tail. This doubles the yarn thickness at the join and tightens it automatically. Once you have knitted an inch or so, the join settles and looks even.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I cast on for the round on a straight needle and then move the stitches to a circular needle?

Yes. Cast on all your stitches on a straight needle using any method. Once the cast-on is complete, carefully slide the stitches onto a circular needle, making sure they do not twist. This works well if you prefer the feel of straight needles for casting on or if your circular needle is too small for the number of stitches.

What is the minimum number of stitches I need to knit in the round on a circular needle?

Most circular needles work best with at least 40 to 50 stitches, depending on the needle length and cable flexibility. For fewer stitches, double-pointed needles or very short circular needles (sometimes called magic loop needles) work better. Check your needle package for the recommended stitch range.

Do I have to use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round?

A stitch marker makes it much easier to see where each round begins and ends, especially when you are knitting a pattern with color changes or texture. Without one, you can lose track and accidentally knit two rounds in a row or miss a decrease. A marker takes seconds to place and saves confusion later.

What happens if I twist the cast-on edge and do not notice until I have knitted several inches?

You will need to frog back to the cast-on row and start again. There is no way to untwist stitches after they are knitted. Catching the twist before you knit more than a few rounds is much faster than ripping back later, so check your work before you finish the first round.

This guide is for general information only and is not medical, financial, legal, or other professional advice. For decisions specific to your situation, consult a qualified professional. See our Editorial Policy.