The Basic Method: Carrying Yarn Up the Inside
When you knit in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles, you change colors by dropping the old yarn and picking up the new one at the start of your round. The simplest approach is to carry the unused yarn up the inside of your work, letting it run along the inside edge where it will not show.
To do this: knit to the point where you want to change colors, drop the old yarn, pick up the new yarn, and knit the next stitch with it. The old yarn stays inside the tube of your knitting. On the next round, when you reach that same spot again, drop the new yarn and pick up the old one. The carried yarn floats inside, hidden from view.
This method works well when you are switching colors every few rounds or when the color changes happen at the same spot each round—like the stripes on a hat or the pattern repeats on a sweater. The float inside stays loose enough that it does not pucker the fabric, but tight enough that it does not create a gap.
Key Takeaways
- Carry unused yarn up the inside of your round by letting it float loosely along the inside edge of your knitting.
- Weave the carried yarn around your working yarn every three to four rounds to prevent long floats that can snag or stretch.
- When color changes happen at different spots each round, cut the yarn and weave in the ends later instead of carrying it.
- Keep carried yarn at the same tension as your working yarn so the fabric does not pucker or develop loose spots.
- Test your tension on a small swatch before starting a large project to see how the carried yarn affects the look of your work.
Weaving in Carried Yarn to Prevent Snagging
If you carry yarn for more than three or four rounds without securing it, the float inside can become long enough to snag on your fingers or needles when you reach it again. To prevent this, weave the carried yarn around your working yarn every few rounds.
The easiest way is to catch the carried yarn under your working yarn as you knit. On one round, bring the carried yarn to the front of your work between two stitches, then knit the next stitch over it so it gets trapped. On the following round, bring it to the back and knit over it again. This anchors it without creating a visible line on the outside of your fabric.
Weave in the carried yarn on every third or fourth round if you are carrying it for a long stretch. This keeps the float short enough that it will not snag, but spaced far enough apart that you do not see a line of weaving on the outside. Practice on a swatch first so you can feel the right tension—too tight and your fabric will pucker; too loose and the float will still snag.
Cutting and Weaving Ends When Colors Change at Different Spots
If your color changes happen at different places around each round—like in a complex Fair Isle pattern or a random-stripe design—carrying yarn becomes impractical. Instead, cut the yarn and weave in the ends after you finish knitting.
When you reach the point where you want to change colors, cut the old yarn, leaving a 4- to 6-inch tail. Pick up the new yarn and knit the next stitch. The tail will dangle inside your work. After you finish the project, thread each tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the inside of your stitches for about an inch, then trim it short. The woven-in end will not unravel because it is locked into the fabric.
This method takes more time at the end, but it is the only practical way to handle color changes that do not follow a repeating pattern. It also gives you the cleanest inside edge because there are no long floats to worry about.
Joining New Yarn Without a Knot
Never tie a knot to join a new color—knots create bumps that show on the outside of your work and can come untied later. Instead, overlap the old and new yarn for one stitch, then weave in the tails.
When you reach your color change, drop the old yarn and pick up the new one. Knit the next stitch with both yarns held together as one. This creates a stitch that is slightly thicker but holds both colors in place. On the following round, use only the new yarn. After you finish, weave in both tails separately—the old yarn tail and the new yarn tail—and they will lock the join in place without a knot.
If you prefer, you can also straightforward drop the old yarn and pick up the new one without overlapping. This creates a tiny gap at the join, but it is less noticeable than a knot and easier to weave in later. Test both methods on a swatch to see which one you prefer.
Managing Tension So Carried Yarn Does Not Show
The most common mistake when changing colors in the round is pulling the carried yarn too tight. When you pick up the old yarn again after carrying it for a few rounds, if you pull it tight, it will cinch the stitches and create a visible line on the outside of your work.
Keep the carried yarn at the same tension as your working yarn. Let it sit loosely inside the tube of your knitting, just like the working yarn does. When you pick it up again, the first stitch you knit with it should feel the same as any other stitch—not tight, not loose.
If you find that your carried yarn keeps pulling tight, try holding it in a different hand or letting it rest on your pinky finger while you knit with the other yarn. Some knitters find it easier to manage tension if they carry the yarn on the outside of their hand rather than between their fingers. Experiment on a swatch until you find a method that keeps your tension even.
Choosing Between Carrying and Cutting Based on Your Pattern
Before you start a project with multiple colors, decide whether you will carry yarn or cut and weave. The answer depends on how often you switch colors and whether the switches happen in the same place each round.
Carry yarn if you are working stripes, if color changes happen at the same spot each round, or if you switch colors every few rounds. This saves time because you do not have to weave in many ends. Cut yarn if color changes happen at random spots, if you switch colors more than once per round, or if you are working a complex pattern like Fair Isle or intarsia. Carrying yarn in these situations creates too many long floats to manage.
If you are unsure, knit a 4-inch swatch with your pattern and both methods. See which one looks cleaner on the outside and feels easier to work. The time you spend on a swatch now will save you frustration later.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can I carry yarn inside without it snagging?
Most knitters can carry yarn safely for three to four rounds before weaving it in. Beyond that, the float becomes long enough to catch on your needles or fingers. If you are working with slippery yarn like silk or rayon, weave in every two to three rounds instead. Test on a swatch to see what feels safe with your specific yarn.
What do I do if the carried yarn shows through on the outside?
This usually means you pulled it too tight when you picked it up again. On your next project, hold the carried yarn more loosely and let the first stitch you knit with it be slightly looser than normal. You can also try weaving in the carried yarn more frequently so the float never gets long enough to show through the stitches.
Can I carry more than two colors at once?
Yes, but it becomes harder to manage tension. If you are carrying three colors, keep all three at the same loose tension inside your work and weave them in more frequently—every two rounds instead of every three or four. Most knitters find that carrying more than two colors creates too many floats and too much bulk inside the fabric.
Do I need to weave in carried yarn if I am only carrying it for one round?
No. If you switch back to a color on the very next round, the float is so short that it will not snag. Just pick up the yarn and knit. You only need to weave in carried yarn if the float will be longer than about an inch.