The Two Main Ways to Switch Yarn Colors

You change colors in knitting by dropping your old yarn and picking up a new one at the edge of your work, then securing both yarns so they don't unravel. The two methods are weaving in ends as you go (where you trap the old yarn inside your stitches) and the straightforward knot method (where you tie the yarns together and hide the knot later). Most knitters use weaving-in for a cleaner look, especially on visible edges. The knot method is faster but leaves a bump that shows unless you hide it carefully on the back of your work.

The choice depends on where the color change happens. If you are switching colors at the edge of a row, weaving in works best because the edge stitches hide the old yarn naturally. If you are changing colors in the middle of a row or making a striped pattern, you will likely tie the yarns together and weave in the ends after you finish.

Key Takeaways

  • Drop your old yarn and pick up your new yarn at the edge of your work, then knit the next stitch with the new yarn to lock it in place.
  • Weaving in the old yarn inside your stitches as you work prevents loose ends and creates a cleaner edge than tying knots.
  • If you tie the yarns together, use a square knot and trim the tails to about half an inch, then weave those tails into your finished work with a tapestry needle.
  • Tension matters: keep your first stitch with the new yarn slightly loose so the old yarn has room to be trapped inside without puckering.
  • Practice on a swatch before attempting a color change on a project you care about, because mistakes are visible and hard to fix.

Weaving In the Old Yarn as You Work

This method traps the old yarn inside your stitches so you do not have to weave it in later. Hold both yarns in your left hand—the old yarn and the new yarn—with the old yarn between your index and middle finger and the new yarn between your middle and ring finger. Knit your next stitch with the new yarn only, but as you wrap the new yarn around your needle, let the old yarn sit inside that wrap. The old yarn gets locked into the back of the stitch.

Continue knitting with the new yarn for the next stitch, but this time do not trap the old yarn. On the stitch after that, trap it again. This alternating pattern—trap, skip, trap, skip—distributes the old yarn evenly along the edge so it does not bunch up. After you finish the row, the old yarn will be secured inside your work and you can trim it to about a quarter inch from the edge.

The key mistake here is trapping the old yarn in every stitch. If you do, the edge becomes stiff and the old yarn shows as a ridge. Alternating prevents that. Also, keep your tension loose on the stitches where you trap the yarn, or the edge will pucker and look uneven.

The Knot Method for Mid-Row Color Changes

If you need to change colors in the middle of a row or your pattern requires it, tie the old yarn and new yarn together with a square knot. Hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right. Cross the new yarn over the old yarn, wrap it around, and pull it through. Then cross the old yarn over the new yarn, wrap it around, and pull it through. You should have a knot that lies flat and does not slip.

Trim both tails to about half an inch from the knot. Continue knitting with the new yarn. The knot will sit on the wrong side of your work (the back). After you finish the project, thread a tapestry needle with one of the tails and weave it into the stitches on the back for about an inch, then trim it close. Do the same with the other tail. This hides the knot and the tails so they do not show on the front.

The square knot is important because a straightforward overhand knot can slip and come undone as you knit. Test your knot by pulling both yarn ends hard—it should not budge. If it does, tie it again.

Carrying Yarn Up the Side for Narrow Stripes

If you are knitting narrow stripes—say, two rows of one color, then two rows of another—you do not need to cut and tie yarn each time. Instead, carry the unused yarn up the side of your work. At the end of your row, twist the new yarn around the old yarn before you turn your work to knit back. This locks the old yarn to the edge so it does not dangle.

To twist, hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right. Bring the new yarn under the old yarn, then over it, so they cross. Then knit the next row with the new yarn. On the row after that, when you switch back to the old yarn, twist them again in the same way. The twisted yarns stay snug against the edge and do not create loose loops.

This method only works for stripes that are two to four rows wide. If the stripe is wider, the carried yarn becomes too loose and shows as a loop on the edge. For wider stripes, cut the yarn and tie it in.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

The most common mistake is pulling too tight on the first stitch after a color change. When you switch yarns, your first stitch with the new yarn is often tight because you are adjusting to the new yarn's tension. This creates a visible line at the color change. To fix this, knit the first stitch after a color change slightly loose, then return to your normal tension on the next stitch.

Another mistake is not securing the old yarn well enough. If you straightforward drop it and start knitting with the new yarn, the old yarn will unravel as you work. Always trap it inside a stitch or tie it to the new yarn. Loose ends will come undone.

A third mistake is weaving in ends too close to the edge. If you weave an end in just one stitch away from the color change, it can peek out. Weave it in at least two or three stitches away from the change, on the back of the work, so it stays hidden.

Practicing on a Swatch First

Before you change colors on a project you care about, practice on a small swatch using the same yarn and needles. Cast on about 20 stitches and knit 10 rows in one color. Then change to a second color using the weaving-in method. Knit 10 more rows, then change back to the first color. Look at the edge where the colors meet. Is it smooth and even, or does it pucker? Are the old yarns hidden, or do they show?

If the edge is uneven, your tension on the first stitch after the color change is probably too tight. If the old yarn shows, you did not trap it far enough into the stitches. Use the swatch to figure out what works for your hands and your yarn before you commit to a finished piece. A swatch takes 15 minutes and saves you from frogging (ripping out) an entire project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change colors in the middle of a row?

Yes, but it is harder to hide the join. Tie the yarns together with a square knot, trim the tails to half an inch, and weave them into the back of your work after you finish. The knot will create a small bump on the wrong side. If the color change is in the middle of a visible area, consider ripping back to the edge of the row and changing there instead.

What if my color change looks lumpy?

The lump usually comes from pulling too tight on the first stitch with the new yarn. Rip back to just before the color change, then knit that first stitch again, this time keeping it loose. If the lump is from a knot, make sure you used a square knot and that it is pulled tight. A loose knot will create a visible bump.

How do I hide the tails after I tie the yarns together?

Thread a tapestry needle with one tail and weave it through the back loops of stitches for about an inch, moving away from the knot. The needle should go in and out of the loops, not through the yarn itself. Trim the tail close to the work. Repeat with the other tail. This hides both the knot and the ends.

Do I have to weave in ends as I go, or can I do it all at the end?

You can do it all at the end if you prefer. Weaving in as you go saves time later and prevents loose ends from unraveling while you work. Weaving in at the end gives you more control over placement and is easier if you are still learning. Choose whichever feels more comfortable for you.

What yarn weight works best for color changes?

Worsted weight and heavier yarns are easiest because the stitches are large and the old yarn hides easily inside them. Fingering weight and lace weight are harder because the stitches are small and the old yarn can show or create bumps. Start with a medium-weight yarn while you learn, then move to thinner yarns once you have the tension right.