Change yarn by weaving the old and new strands together at the edge of your work

The simplest way to change yarn is to tie the new strand directly to the old one at the edge of your fabric, then weave in both tails later. Cut the old yarn about 6 inches from your work, cut the new yarn the same length, and tie them together with a square knot — right over left, then left over right. Tighten it close to the edge of your knitting, then continue with the new yarn on your next row. This method works best when you are changing colors at a natural break, like the start of a new row or round.

The knot will sit on the edge of your finished piece, hidden in the seam if you are sewing pieces together, or woven into the edge if you are binding off. For garments where the edge is visible, you can position the knot on the inside of the fabric by tying it on the wrong side of your work before you start the next row.

Key Takeaways

  • A square knot at the edge of your work is the fastest method and leaves tails you can weave in later.
  • The Russian join lets you thread new yarn through the old yarn without tying a knot, creating a nearly invisible transition.
  • Changing yarn mid-row requires you to drop the old yarn and pick up the new one, then find both tails when you finish.
  • When switching to a thicker or thinner yarn, you may need to adjust your needle size to keep the fabric consistent.
  • Always change yarn at a point where you can hide the join — the edge of a row, the start of a new color block, or inside a seam.

Use the Russian join to hide the transition completely

The Russian join creates a connection with no knot and no visible seam. Thread the new yarn through a tapestry needle, then insert the needle through the last 4 to 6 stitches of the old yarn, going in one end and out the other. Pull the new yarn through so it sits alongside the old yarn. Now thread the old yarn through the tapestry needle and do the same thing in reverse — insert it through the new yarn, going in one end and out the other.

Once both yarns are threaded through each other, pull gently on both strands to tighten the join. The two yarns will lock together without a knot. Cut off the excess old yarn close to where it enters the new yarn, and cut the new yarn the same way. This method works best with yarn that has some texture or grip — smooth, slippery yarn can slip apart if pulled too hard.

The Russian join sits inside your stitches rather than at the edge, so it is invisible in the finished fabric. It takes a bit longer than tying a knot, but there are no tails to weave in and no bump on the edge of your work.

Change yarn in the middle of a row by dropping and picking up

If you need to change color or yarn in the middle of a row — for stripes, color work, or when you run out of yarn partway through — drop the old yarn at your working edge and pick up the new yarn. Knit the next stitch with the new yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail of the old yarn hanging. Continue knitting with the new yarn for as long as you need it.

When you finish the row, you will have two tails at the edge where you made the change. Tie them together with a square knot, or weave them both into the edge of your fabric using a tapestry needle. If the change happens in the middle of a color block or pattern, the knot will be hidden in the seam when you sew the piece together.

This method leaves loose tails that must be secured, so it is not as clean as changing yarn at the start of a row. However, it is the only option when you run out of yarn mid-row or need a color change in a specific spot for your pattern.

Adjust your needle size when switching to thicker or thinner yarn

If you are changing from one yarn weight to another — for example, from worsted weight to bulky, or from fingering to sport — you may need to change your needle size to keep the fabric consistent. Thicker yarn generally requires larger needles, and thinner yarn requires smaller needles. Check the label on the new yarn for the recommended needle size, and compare it to the needle size you used for the old yarn.

If the new yarn calls for a needle size that is more than one or two sizes different from what you were using, switch needles before you tie on the new yarn. Knit a few stitches with the new yarn and new needle to make sure the fabric looks and feels right. If it is too loose or too tight, adjust the needle size up or down by half a size and try again.

Changing needle size mid-project can create a visible line where the fabric changes texture or drape. This is sometimes intentional — for example, if you are adding a ribbed cuff in thinner yarn — but if you want the transition to be invisible, plan the yarn change for a seam or edge where the difference will not show.

Weave in the tails after you finish knitting

Once you have tied on new yarn and finished your piece, you will have loose tails at each join. Thread each tail through a tapestry needle and weave it through the stitches along the edge of your work, going in and out of the fabric for about 2 inches. This anchors the tail so it will not come loose when you wash or wear the finished piece.

Weave the tails along the edge of a seam if possible, so they are hidden when the piece is sewn together. If the edge is visible in the finished garment, weave the tail through stitches on the wrong side of the fabric, or along the inside of a ribbed edge where it will not show.

After you have woven in all the tails, trim them close to the fabric. Some knitters prefer to leave a tiny bit of tail showing and trim it flush after washing, because wet yarn can slip out more easily than dry yarn.

Plan color changes in advance to keep your work neat

The cleanest color changes happen when you plan them before you start knitting. If your pattern calls for stripes or color blocks, mark the rows where each color change happens so you know exactly when to switch yarn. This lets you change yarn at the start of a row, where the join is easiest to hide.

For self-striping or variegated yarn, you do not have a choice — the color changes happen where the yarn manufacturer placed them. In this case, straightforward tie on the new color when the old yarn runs out, and weave in the tails later.

If you are designing your own color work or adding stripes to a pattern that does not call for them, sketch out where each color will start and end. This prevents you from running out of one color in the middle of a row, or from having to make an unplanned change that looks accidental.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I run out of yarn in the middle of a row and have no new yarn ready?

Stop knitting and tie off the working yarn by pulling the loop tight. Pick up your new yarn, thread it through the loop, and continue knitting. You will have a join in the middle of the row, but it will be find. Tie the two tails together and weave them in when you finish.

Can I change yarn without tying a knot?

Yes — the Russian join threads the new yarn through the old yarn without a knot. It takes longer than tying but creates an invisible join with no tails to weave in. It works best with textured yarn that has grip.

Does changing yarn in the middle of a row make a weak spot?

No, as long as you tie the tails securely and weave them in properly. The join is as strong as the rest of your knitting. A square knot holds well, and the woven-in tails anchor it further.

What happens if I change needle size but keep the same yarn weight?

Your fabric will change texture and drape. Larger needles create looser, airier fabric; smaller needles create tighter, denser fabric. This is sometimes intentional for ribbing or texture changes, but it will be visible if you do not plan for it.

Should I tie the knot on the right side or wrong side of my work?

Tie it on the wrong side if the edge will be visible in the finished piece. If the edge will be hidden in a seam, it does not matter. For the cleanest look, tie the knot at the very edge of your fabric so it sits in the seam allowance.