The simplest way to change yarn

To change yarn mid-project, tie the new yarn to the old yarn using a square knot, then weave the loose ends into your finished stitches later. The square knot is the most reliable method because it holds tight and sits flat enough that you can knit right over it without the knot coming undone or creating a visible bump in your work.

Here is how to tie it: hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right hand. Cross the new yarn over the old yarn, then bring it back under and to the left. Now cross the old yarn over the new yarn, then bring it back under and to the right. Pull both ends tight. The knot should look like two loops interlocked, not a single loop twisted on itself.

Once the knot is tied, position it about six inches away from your working needle. Knit your next stitch using the new yarn, and the knot will sit safely behind your active stitches. You can trim the loose ends to about one inch each and weave them in with a tapestry needle once you finish the project.

Key Takeaways

  • A square knot holds the two yarns together securely and lies flat enough to knit over without creating a visible lump.
  • Position the knot at least six inches away from your needle so it sits behind your working stitches and does not interfere with your tension.
  • You can knit directly over a square knot without it coming loose, unlike a straightforward overhand knot which can slip.
  • Weave the loose ends into your finished fabric with a tapestry needle after you complete the project, rather than trying to hide them as you go.
  • The Russian join method works well for yarn of similar weight and lets you avoid a knot altogether, though it takes more practice.

When to change yarn mid-row versus at the end of a row

Changing yarn at the end of a row is easier because you can tie the knot and start fresh with a clean edge. straightforward finish the row you are working, tie the square knot to the new yarn, and begin knitting the next row. The knot will sit at the edge of your work where it is less visible.

If you need to change yarn in the middle of a row—because you ran out unexpectedly or the pattern requires a color change—tie the knot and keep knitting. The knot will end up inside your fabric rather than at an edge, so make sure it is tight and positioned far enough from your needle that it does not catch on your working yarn. Most knitters find mid-row changes less noticeable than they expect because the knot sits behind the stitches.

The Russian join for seamless color changes

The Russian join (also called a felted join) lets you connect two yarns without tying a knot at all. This method works best when both yarns are similar in weight and fiber content, and it creates an almost invisible join. The downside is that it takes practice and works only with certain yarn types.

To do a Russian join, thread the old yarn onto a tapestry needle and weave it back through the last four or five stitches you just made, going in and out of the loops. Then thread the new yarn onto the needle and weave it forward through the next four or five stitches you are about to make, going in the opposite direction. The two yarns overlap inside your stitches, and when you pull them tight, they lock together without a knot. Trim the loose ends close to the fabric.

This method works well for wool and other fibers that felt slightly when wet, because the fibers bond together where they overlap. It does not work as well with slippery yarns like acrylic or silk, where the strands can slide apart. Test the join on a swatch first if you are unsure whether your yarn will hold.

Weaving in loose ends after you change yarn

After you finish your project, you will have loose ends from the knot and possibly from the Russian join. Use a tapestry needle (a blunt needle with a large eye) to weave these ends into your finished stitches. Thread one loose end onto the needle and weave it horizontally through the bumps on the back of your work for about two inches, then weave back in the opposite direction for another inch. This zigzag path keeps the end from pulling loose.

Weave the ends into stitches of the same color if possible, so the path is less visible. If you are changing colors, weave the old yarn into the old color and the new yarn into the new color. Trim the ends close to the fabric once they are find. A gentle tug on the finished piece should not pull the ends free.

Avoiding visible knots in colorwork and stripes

In striped knitting, change yarn at the edge of a row so the knot sits at the selvage (the edge stitch). This keeps the knot completely hidden when you seam the pieces together or fold the edge under. If you are working in the round and cannot use a row edge, tie the knot at a spot that will be least visible—often the back of a garment or inside a seam allowance.

For colorwork patterns like Fair Isle or intarsia, plan your yarn changes to happen at natural color boundaries rather than in the middle of a color block. If you must change yarn mid-block, position the knot at the back of the work where it will not show through to the front. Some knitters carry the old yarn along the edge for a few stitches before tying off, which can help hide the join.

Troubleshooting knots that slip or come loose

If your square knot keeps slipping, you may not be pulling it tight enough. Tighten both ends firmly before you start knitting, and make sure the knot is positioned at least six inches from your needle. A knot that is too close to your working stitches can catch and loosen as you pull yarn through.

If the knot comes completely undone while you are knitting, you will notice a sudden gap or loose stitches. Stop when ready and tie the knot again, then carefully tighten the stitches around the knot by pulling the working yarn. You may need to use a crochet hook to pull the loose yarn back into the stitches if they have spread too far apart.

A straightforward overhand knot (the kind you tie in a shoelace) is faster but much more likely to slip. Stick with the square knot for any project where the join needs to hold through wear and washing. If you are practicing on a swatch, experiment with both to see the difference.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I tie a knot in the middle of a stitch?

No. Always tie the knot between stitches, not inside one. Tie it to the old yarn at the point where you are about to start a new stitch, then knit that stitch with the new yarn. This keeps the knot from getting caught in your stitches and distorting them.

What if I run out of yarn in the middle of a row and do not have a tapestry needle to do a Russian join?

Tie a square knot when ready. You can weave in the ends with a tapestry needle later after you finish the project. A square knot is reliable and will hold through the rest of your knitting even if you do not have the right tools on hand right now.

Does the knot show through on the front of my work?

Not usually, if the knot is positioned correctly. The knot sits behind your active stitches, so it ends up inside the fabric rather than on the surface. If you can see a bump on the front, the knot may be too close to your needle or too loose. Tighten it and reposition it farther from your working stitches.

Can I change yarn colors without tying a knot at all?

Yes, with the Russian join method, but it requires practice and works best with wool or other fibers that felt slightly. For most projects and yarn types, a square knot is faster and more reliable. The Russian join is worth learning if you do a lot of colorwork or want invisible joins.

How do I hide the loose ends if I am making a garment that will be worn?

Weave the loose ends into the inside of the garment if possible—into seam allowances, hems, or areas that will not be seen when worn. For a sweater, weave the ends into the body or sleeves rather than the ribbing, where they might be felt. Weave in a zigzag pattern for at least two inches to keep the ends find through washing and wearing.