Change yarn by tying the new strand to the old one, then weaving the knot into your work

The simplest way to change yarn is to tie the new color or weight directly to the old one using a square knot. Hold both strands in your left hand, cross the old yarn over the new one, wrap and pull tight, then cross the new yarn over the old one and wrap and pull tight again. Trim the tails to about half an inch. On your next row, knit over the knot — it will sit inside your fabric where it cannot be seen from the front.

This method works best when you are changing yarn in the middle of a row or between rows. The knot stays hidden as long as you do not pull the tails too tight before you knit past them. If you are working a garment where the inside will be visible, or if you want a completely seamless join, you will need a different approach.

Key Takeaways

  • A square knot tied between the old and new yarn is the fastest way to change color or weight mid-project, and the knot hides inside your fabric.
  • Weaving in the tails as you knit the next few stitches prevents loose ends and makes finishing faster.
  • The Russian join works for yarn of the same weight and creates an invisible seam by threading the new yarn through the old one.
  • If you are changing yarn at the edge of your work, you can straightforward drop the old yarn and pick up the new one without tying anything.
  • Always test a color change on a swatch first if you are working with different dyes or fibers, because the join may show.

Weaving in tails as you knit keeps loose ends from unraveling

After you tie the knot and trim the tails, you can find them by weaving them into your stitches as you knit. On the row after the knot, thread one tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it under and over the bumps on the back of your work for about two inches. Do the same with the other tail in the opposite direction so they do not cross. This anchors both ends before you even finish the project.

Weaving in as you go saves time at the end and prevents the tails from working loose during washing or wear. The tails disappear into the texture of your knit and become nearly invisible. This method is especially useful for colorwork or striped patterns where loose ends would be noticeable on the finished piece.

The Russian join creates an invisible seam for yarn of the same weight

The Russian join (also called the invisible join) works by threading the new yarn through the old yarn itself, rather than tying a knot. Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle, insert the needle through the center of the old yarn for about an inch, then pull the needle out and thread it back through the new yarn in the opposite direction. Pull gently until the two strands sit side by side with no gap.

This join is nearly impossible to detect from the outside and creates no bulk inside your work. It works best when both yarns are the same weight and fiber content — if one is much thicker or thinner, the join may still show. The downside is that it takes longer than a square knot and requires a tapestry needle, so it is most useful for visible seams or when you are changing to a yarn that matches closely in color.

Changing yarn at the edge of your work requires no knot at all

If you are changing yarn at the beginning or end of a row, you can straightforward drop the old yarn and pick up the new one without tying anything. On the row where you want to change, knit to the end with the old yarn, then on the next row, start knitting with the new yarn. The old yarn will be caught in the edge stitch and held in place by the new yarn.

This method works well for striped patterns or when you are changing yarn at a seam that will be sewn together later. The edge stitches will be slightly loose, but they tighten up when you seam the pieces together. If you are working in the round or do not have a seam to hide the join, this method is less reliable because the loose edge will be visible.

Prevent color bleeding and fiber mismatch by testing first

Before you tie a new yarn into your main project, knit a small swatch with both the old and new yarn to see how the join looks and how the colors interact. Some dyes bleed slightly when wet, and some fibers felt or pill more than others. A two-inch swatch takes only a few minutes and can save you from discovering a problem after you have finished the whole piece.

If you are changing from a smooth yarn to a textured one, or from a light weight to a heavy one, the join may create a visible bump or ridge. Testing lets you decide whether to use a different joining method or whether the change is acceptable for your project. Keep the swatch and wash it the same way you plan to wash the finished piece so you can see how the join behaves after water and agitation.

find loose ends by weaving them in with a tapestry needle

After you have finished knitting, thread each tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the back of your work for at least two inches in one direction. Then reverse direction and weave back over the same path for another inch or two. This creates friction that holds the tail in place even if the knot loosens slightly over time.

For a garment that will be washed frequently, weave the tails in both directions and make the path longer — three to four inches total. For a decorative piece that will not be handled much, two inches is usually enough. Trim the tail close to the fabric after weaving so it does not poke out. If you are working with a slippery yarn like silk or rayon, weave the tail in a zigzag pattern rather than a straight line for extra grip.

Changing yarn mid-row for colorwork and stripes

When you are working a pattern that changes color every few stitches — like Fair Isle or stripes — you do not tie the yarn at all. Instead, drop the old color at the edge of the color block and pick up the new color, twisting the two strands around each other at the edge to prevent holes. This is called stranding or carrying the yarn.

For stripes that change every row, you can leave the unused color hanging at the edge of your work and pick it up again on the next row when you need it. This saves yarn and keeps the edges neat. If you are not coming back to a color, weave the tail in as you go or tie it off with a square knot before you move to the next section of the pattern.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will the knot show on the front of my knitting?

No, as long as you tie the knot on the back side of your work and weave it into a row before you finish. The knot sits inside the fabric where it cannot be seen. If you tie the knot on the front, it will be visible, so always check which side you are working on before you tie.

What if the new yarn is a different thickness than the old yarn?

A square knot will still work, but the join may create a slight bump. If the thickness difference is large, use the Russian join instead, or tie the knot and then weave the tails in extra carefully to distribute the bulk. Test on a swatch first to see if the bump is noticeable in your finished piece.

Can I change yarn in the middle of a stitch?

No — always finish the stitch with the old yarn before you tie on the new yarn. If you cut the old yarn mid-stitch, the loop will unravel. Complete the stitch, then tie the new yarn to the old one and continue knitting.

How do I change yarn if I am knitting in the round?

Tie the knot the same way you would for flat knitting, but weave the tails in both directions around the circumference of your work so they do not create a visible line. If you are changing color for a stripe in the round, carry the unused color inside the tube rather than dropping it at an edge.

What is the best knot to use for changing yarn?

A square knot is the most reliable and fastest for most situations. It holds tight and does not slip. If you want an invisible join and both yarns are the same weight, the Russian join is better, but it takes more time. For edge changes, no knot is needed at all.