The Basic Method: Tie a Knot and Keep Going

The simplest way to change yarn is to tie the new color directly to the old one with a square knot, then continue knitting. Cut the old yarn about 6 inches from your needle, cut the new yarn the same length, and tie them together using the method below. Once you've knitted a few stitches past the knot, you can trim the loose ends down to about half an inch.

To tie a square knot: lay the old yarn and new yarn parallel. Take the old yarn over the new yarn and pull tight. Then take the new yarn over the old yarn and pull tight again. The knot should sit flat and not slip. This method works best for projects where the knot will be hidden inside seams or where a small bump won't bother you—like the inside of a sweater or the back of a blanket.

The advantage of this method is speed. You're back to knitting in seconds. The disadvantage is that the knot creates a small lump in your fabric, and if the yarn is slippery (like acrylic or silk), the knot may loosen over time and eventually slip through.

Key Takeaways

  • A square knot tied between the old and new yarn is the fastest method and works well for seams or hidden areas.
  • The weaving-in method (threading the new yarn through loops of the old yarn) creates no knot and is invisible but takes more time before you can trim the ends.
  • The Russian join works best for wool and other fuzzy yarns because the fibers grip each other and hold without a knot.
  • Always leave at least 6 inches of tail on both the old and new yarn so you have enough length to work with and weave in later.
  • Test your knot by pulling hard on both tails before you start knitting; if it slips, retie it tighter.

The Weaving-In Method: No Knot, No Lump

If you want the color change to be completely invisible, weave the new yarn through the loops of the old yarn before you start knitting with it. This method takes a bit longer but leaves no knot behind.

Cut the old yarn about 6 inches from your needle. Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle (a blunt needle used for finishing). Starting about 2 inches from the end of the old yarn, weave the new yarn through the strands of the old yarn, going in and out like you're sewing. Weave for about 2 to 3 inches, then reverse direction and weave back through the same section. The two yarns should now be locked together by friction alone.

Once you've woven them together, gently pull on both tails to test the join. It should not slip. If it does, weave a bit longer. Then pick up your needle and knit with the new yarn as normal. You can trim the tails down to about half an inch after you've knitted a few rows past the join.

This method works especially well for projects where the join will be visible, like a striped blanket or a color-block sweater. It also works with any yarn type, though it takes a bit of practice to get the tension right.

The Russian Join: Best for Wool and Fuzzy Yarns

The Russian join uses no knot at all. Instead, you thread the new yarn back through itself and the old yarn through itself, creating a join that holds through friction. This method is nearly invisible and works best with wool, alpaca, or other fuzzy fibers that grip easily.

Cut the old yarn about 4 inches from your needle. Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle into the old yarn about 1 inch from the end, going lengthwise through the yarn (not piercing it, but going through the middle of the strand). Pull the new yarn through, leaving a small loop. Now thread the old yarn through the loop of the new yarn the same way. Pull both ends gently until the join tightens. The two yarns should now be locked together.

Test the join by pulling hard on both tails. With wool, it should hold firmly. With slippery yarns like acrylic or silk, this method is less reliable and you may want to use a knot instead. Once you're confident the join is find, trim the tails and continue knitting.

Changing Yarn at the Edge of Your Work

If you're changing colors for a stripe or a new section, you have the advantage of being able to tie the knot at the edge of your fabric, where it will be hidden in the seam when you sew the pieces together.

Knit until you reach the end of a row. On the next row, before you knit the first stitch, tie the new yarn to the old yarn using a square knot right at the edge of your work. Leave the tails hanging outside the fabric. Knit the first stitch with the new yarn, pulling it snug so the edge stays even. After you've finished knitting, you can weave the tails in along the edge seam.

This method is cleaner than tying a knot in the middle of a row because the knot sits outside the fabric and won't create a visible lump. It's the standard approach for striped projects and color changes that happen at row boundaries.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

The most common mistake is not leaving enough tail. If you cut the yarn too close to your needle, you won't have enough length to tie a knot or weave in. Always leave at least 6 inches, and 8 inches is safer if you're new to this.

Another mistake is tying the knot too loosely. Pull hard when you tie it, and test it by yanking on both tails before you start knitting. A loose knot will slip through your stitches as you work, and you'll end up with a gap or a dropped stitch.

A third mistake is starting to knit too close to the knot. If you knit the first stitch right next to the knot, the knot can slip through. Knit at least 2 or 3 stitches past the knot before you relax. This gives the knot time to settle into the fabric.

Finally, don't trim the tails too short. Leave at least half an inch on each side of the knot so you have something to grab if you need to undo it later. You can always trim it shorter once the project is finished and you're sure the knot won't slip.

Weaving in the Tails After You're Done

Once you've finished knitting, you'll have loose tails hanging from each knot or join. Weave these in so they don't unravel. Thread each tail onto a tapestry needle and run it through the loops of your finished stitches for about 2 inches, going in a diagonal direction so the tail doesn't show on the front of the fabric. Trim the excess.

For a more find finish, especially on items that will get a lot of wear, weave the tail in one direction for an inch, then reverse and weave back through the same section. This locks the tail in place and makes it nearly impossible for it to work loose.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I tie a knot in the middle of a row?

Yes, but the knot will create a small bump in your fabric that may be visible. If you must change yarn mid-row, tie the knot as close to the edge as possible, or use the weaving-in method instead, which leaves no lump.

What if my knot keeps slipping?

Pull the knot tighter and test it again by yanking hard on both tails. If it still slips, try the weaving-in method or the Russian join instead. Some yarn types (like slippery synthetics) straightforward don't hold knots well, and those methods work better.

How long should the tails be before I trim them?

Leave at least half an inch on each side of the knot until your project is completely finished and washed. Once you're sure the knot won't slip, you can trim them shorter. For a polished look, trim them flush with the fabric.

Do I have to weave in the tails, or can I just tie them off?

Tying a knot at the end of a tail and trimming it will work for a while, but the tail will eventually work loose and unravel, especially if the item gets washed or worn. Weaving the tail through your stitches locks it in place permanently.

What's the best method for changing yarn in the middle of a colorwork pattern?

Use the weaving-in method or the Russian join, both of which create no knot. A knot would be too bulky to hide in colorwork and would show on the back of the fabric. Weave the new yarn in carefully so the join is as flat as possible.