The simplest way to change yarn mid-project

You change yarn by tying the new color to the old one, weaving in the loose ends later, or by straightforward dropping the old yarn and starting fresh with the new one at the beginning of a row. The method you choose depends on whether you want an invisible join or don't mind a small knot hidden inside your fabric. Most knitters use the tie-on method because it takes 30 seconds and works on any stitch pattern.

The key is to make the change at the start of a row rather than in the middle of one. This keeps your tension even and makes the join easier to hide. If you're working in the round, change at the start of a round instead.

Key Takeaways

  • The tie-on method—knotting the new yarn to the old yarn—is the fastest way to change colors and works for any pattern.
  • Always change yarn at the beginning of a row or round, never in the middle, to keep your tension consistent.
  • Weave in the loose ends on the wrong side of your finished piece using a tapestry needle, which hides the knot completely.
  • If you're joining two colors that will show in your finished fabric, use the Russian join method instead, which creates an invisible seam.
  • Test your tension on the first few stitches after changing yarn—new yarn may feel thicker or thinner than what you were using.

The tie-on method: the fastest approach

Finish the row you're working on with your old yarn. At the start of the next row, tie the new yarn to the old yarn using a straightforward overhand knot. Leave a 4-inch tail on both the old and new yarn so you have something to hold and weave in later.

Slide the knot up close to your working stitches, but not so tight that it distorts the last stitch. Knit the first stitch of the new row with the new yarn, holding both tails steady as you work. The knot will sit inside your fabric where it won't show. After you finish your project, thread both tails into a tapestry needle and weave them through the back of nearby stitches to find them.

This method works on stockinette, garter, ribbing, and most other patterns. The only drawback is the small knot inside your fabric, but for blankets, sweaters, and scarves it's invisible once worn.

The Russian join: for seams that must be invisible

Use this method when the color change will be visible in your finished piece—for example, when you're changing colors in a striped pattern or colorwork design. The Russian join creates a seam with no knot at all.

Thread your old yarn into a tapestry needle. Weave the needle through the fibers of the new yarn for about an inch, going in and out of the yarn strand itself (not through stitches). Then thread the new yarn into the needle and weave it back through the old yarn the same way. Pull gently to tighten. The two yarns lock together inside their own fibers, and you can trim the tails flush with the join. This takes about two minutes but leaves no visible knot or tail.

The Russian join works best with yarn that has some texture or grip—smooth, slippery yarns like silk or rayon can slip apart. Test it on a scrap first if you're unsure about your yarn.

Changing yarn mid-row: when you have no choice

If you must change yarn in the middle of a row, tie the new yarn to the old one the same way, but expect a slightly looser stitch at the join. Slide the knot as close as possible to your working needle and knit the next stitch firmly to tighten the tension.

Mid-row joins are more visible than row-end joins because the knot sits closer to the surface of your fabric. Use this method only when you run out of yarn unexpectedly or when your pattern requires it. For planned color changes, always wait until the end of a row.

Checking your tension after the change

The first few stitches after you change yarn often look loose or uneven. This is normal. Knit 3 to 5 stitches with the new yarn, then look at your work. If the stitches are noticeably looser than the row before, you may have been holding the new yarn too loosely as you worked those first stitches.

If the tension looks off, you can tighten it by gently pulling the working yarn as you knit the next few rows. The tension will even out on its own within a row or two. If it stays loose, you may need to go back and re-knit those stitches with tighter tension—use a smaller needle size if the new yarn is thicker than the old one.

Different yarn brands and weights can feel very different in your hands. Acrylic yarn often feels slicker than wool, and thicker yarn requires more hand strength to tension properly. Give yourself a few stitches to adjust.

Weaving in the ends so they stay put

After you bind off and finish your project, thread each loose tail into a tapestry needle. On the wrong side of your fabric, weave the needle through the back of stitches in a zigzag pattern for about 2 inches. This anchors the tail so it won't pull loose in the wash.

Weave horizontally along a row of stitches rather than vertically up a column—horizontal weaving is stronger and less likely to show through thin fabric. When you reach the end of your 2-inch path, reverse direction and weave back over the same stitches for another inch. This creates a lock that holds the tail in place.

Trim the tail close to the fabric with scissors. If you leave a tiny bit of yarn sticking out (about 1/8 inch), it's less likely to slip back through the weaving. Wet-block your finished piece if the pattern calls for it—blocking helps set the woven-in ends and makes them disappear into the fabric.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is tying the knot too far from your working stitches. If the knot sits an inch away from the needle, you'll have a long loop of loose yarn that's hard to tension evenly. Always slide the knot right up to the base of your last stitch before you start the new row.

Another mistake is changing yarn in the middle of a row when you could have waited. This creates a visible bump in your fabric that's harder to hide. If you're running low on yarn, count your stitches and estimate how many rows you have left. Change colors at the end of a row while you still have yarn to spare.

Don't pull the new yarn too tightly as you knit the first stitch after the change. This distorts the stitch and makes the join obvious. Hold the new yarn at the same tension you used for the old yarn, and let the knot sit loose until you've knitted a few stitches past it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change yarn in the middle of a stitch?

No. Always finish the stitch you're working on with the old yarn, then tie on the new yarn before you start the next stitch. Changing mid-stitch creates a weak point that can unravel.

What if the knot is too bulky and shows through my fabric?

Use the Russian join instead, which has no knot. If you've already tied a knot, you can carefully untie it, thread both yarns into a tapestry needle, and redo the join using the Russian method. This takes a few extra minutes but creates an invisible seam.

Do I have to weave in the ends right after I finish knitting?

No. You can weave in ends when ready or wait until later. Many knitters prefer to weave them in after blocking, when the fabric is set and the ends are easier to hide. Store your project in a bag so the loose tails don't catch on anything.

What happens if I don't weave in the ends?

The loose tails will eventually work their way out of the knot, especially after washing or wearing. The yarn will unravel and your join will fall apart. Weaving in takes only a few minutes and makes your project last for years.

Can I change yarn if I'm using a variegated or multicolored yarn?

Yes. The tie-on method works with any yarn type. The knot may be slightly more visible with variegated yarn because the colors don't match, but it will still be hidden inside your fabric if you weave in the ends properly.