Closing a knit hat means grafting or binding off the stitches at the crown so the opening is sealed and the hat holds its shape

The most common method is Kitchener stitch (also called grafting), which joins two rows of live stitches so the seam is nearly invisible. You can also use a three-needle bind-off if you prefer a visible seam, or a standard bind-off if you're working in the round and straightforward closing the final gap. The method you choose depends on whether you want the closure to blend in, how many stitches remain, and whether you're working flat or in the round.

Most hat patterns tell you which method to use, but if yours doesn't, Kitchener stitch gives the most polished result for a hat crown. It takes practice to get the tension right, but the technique is the same every time once you learn the rhythm.

Key Takeaways

  • Kitchener stitch creates an invisible seam by threading yarn through live stitches on two needles without binding them off first.
  • You need a tapestry needle, the working yarn still attached to your knitting, and two equal groups of live stitches on separate needles.
  • The stitch follows a four-step pattern repeated across all stitches: through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl, through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, and so on.
  • Common mistakes include pulling the yarn too tight (which puckers the seam), skipping stitches, or accidentally binding off before grafting.

Setting up for Kitchener stitch

Before you start grafting, divide your remaining stitches evenly between two needles. If your pattern has you decreasing down to a small number—say 12 or 16 stitches—slip half of them onto a second needle. Both needles should hold the same number of stitches, and the stitches must still be live (not bound off). The working yarn should still be attached to your knitting.

Hold the two needles parallel in your left hand, with the needle tips pointing to the right. The working yarn hangs from the last stitch on the back needle. Thread a tapestry needle (a blunt needle with a large eye) with a length of yarn about 18 inches long—you can use the working yarn or a separate strand in the same color. The key is having enough yarn to work through all the stitches without running out.

The four-step Kitchener stitch pattern

Kitchener stitch works by threading the tapestry needle through stitches in a specific order. The pattern repeats the same four moves across the entire row. Start with the tapestry needle threaded and the working yarn hanging from the back needle.

Step 1: Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl (from right to left through the stitch). Pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit (from left to right through the stitch). Pull the yarn through, leaving the stitch on the needle.

Step 3: Go back to the front needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the same first stitch as if to knit (from left to right). This time, slip the stitch off the needle. Then insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl (from right to left). Leave this new stitch on the needle.

Step 4: Go back to the back needle. Insert the tapestry needle through the same first stitch as if to purl (from right to left). Slip the stitch off the needle. Then insert the tapestry needle through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit (from left to right). Leave this new stitch on the needle.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches are grafted. You will end with one stitch remaining on each needle. Work through both of these final stitches using the pattern from step 3 and step 4, then pull the yarn through and weave the end into the hat.

Tension and common mistakes

The most frequent error is pulling the yarn too tight as you work. Kitchener stitch should feel loose and straightforward—the yarn should slide through the stitches without resistance. If you pull hard, the grafted seam will pucker and look bunched. Let the yarn sit naturally and only tighten it after you've worked several stitches in a row, not after each individual stitch.

Another common mistake is accidentally binding off the stitches before you start grafting. Once you bind off, the stitches are locked and you cannot graft them. If this happens, you can still close the hat with a three-needle bind-off or by sewing the opening shut with a tapestry needle, but the seam will be visible.

Skipping stitches or going through the wrong part of a stitch will leave holes in the seam. Work slowly at first and count your stitches as you go. It's better to graft one hat slowly and correctly than to rush and have to pull out and restart.

Three-needle bind-off as an alternative

If Kitchener stitch feels too complicated, a three-needle bind-off is faster and still looks neat. Hold the two needles with live stitches parallel in your left hand. Using a third needle in your right hand, knit the first stitch from the front needle and the first stitch from the back needle together as one stitch. Repeat with the next pair of stitches, then pass the first stitch over the second to bind off, just as you would in a regular bind-off.

The three-needle bind-off creates a visible ridge along the seam, which some knitters prefer for the texture it adds. It's also much faster than Kitchener stitch and leaves less room for error. The trade-off is that the seam shows, so it works best on hats where you want a decorative detail at the crown.

Closing a hat worked in the round

If you knitted your hat in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles, you may have only a small gap left after your final decrease round. In this case, you can straightforward thread the working yarn through the remaining stitches with a tapestry needle, pull tight, and weave the end inside the hat. This works for gaps of 6 to 8 stitches or fewer.

For larger gaps on in-the-round hats, use the same Kitchener stitch method described above, or switch to a three-needle bind-off. The technique is identical—you're just closing a smaller opening than you would on a flat hat.

Weaving in the yarn end

After you've grafted or bound off the crown, you'll have a yarn end to hide. Thread it back onto your tapestry needle and weave it through the stitches inside the hat, going up and down through the bumps on the wrong side. Weave for at least 2 inches so the end doesn't pull loose. Trim the yarn close to the hat, and the end will stay hidden inside.

If you used a separate strand of yarn for grafting instead of the working yarn, you'll have two ends to weave in—the working yarn and the grafting yarn. Weave each one separately in different directions so they anchor firmly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I don't have enough stitches left to divide evenly between two needles?

If you have an odd number of stitches, put the extra stitch on the front needle. Work Kitchener stitch as normal, and the front needle will have one stitch left at the end instead of the back needle. The seam will still close properly—the difference of one stitch is invisible on a hat crown.

Can I use Kitchener stitch if I already bound off one side?

No. Kitchener stitch requires both sides to have live stitches. If you've bound off one side, use a tapestry needle to sew the opening shut by threading through the bumps of the bound-off edge and the live stitches on the other needle. It's slower than grafting but still works.

How do I know if my Kitchener stitch is tight enough?

The grafted seam should look like a row of knit stitches, not loose loops or tight bunches. If you can see gaps between stitches, the tension is too loose. If the seam puckers or pulls, it's too tight. You can adjust by gently pulling the yarn to even out the tension after you've worked several stitches.

What if I make a mistake halfway through grafting?

Pull the tapestry needle out and unravel back to where the mistake happened. It's easier to fix a grafting error while the stitches are still on the needles than to try to fix it after you've finished. Don't be afraid to start over—most knitters need several hats to get Kitchener stitch smooth.

Do I have to use the working yarn for Kitchener stitch?

No. You can use a separate strand of yarn in the same color, which is helpful if your working yarn is short. Just make sure the separate yarn is the same weight and color so the seam blends in. Weave both ends in when you're done.