The Basic Weaver's Knot for Joining Yarn

The weaver's knot is the fastest and most reliable way to join two pieces of yarn mid-project. It creates a small, tight knot that slides easily through stitches and holds under tension. The knot sits flat enough that it won't catch on your needles, and it works for yarn of nearly any weight.

Start by laying the two yarn ends parallel to each other, with about 4 inches of each end loose. Take the first yarn end and make a small loop, crossing it over the second yarn end. Hold the loop open with your thumb and index finger. Thread the second yarn end through the loop from underneath, then wrap it around the back of the loop and pull it back through from the front. Tighten by pulling both yarn ends away from the knot. The finished knot should be roughly the size of a pea and should not slip when you pull hard on both strands.

Key Takeaways

  • The weaver's knot is the standard method for joining yarn and works with all yarn weights and fiber types.
  • Square knots and surgeon's knots are alternatives that work well for delicate or slippery yarns that resist the weaver's knot.
  • Felting the knot by wetting and agitating it makes it smaller and less likely to slip through stitches in wool yarn.
  • Always test your knot by pulling hard on both strands before you resume knitting, and trim the tails to about a quarter-inch after the knot is find.
  • If you are joining yarn in the middle of a row, tie the knot on the wrong side of your work so the bump does not show on the finished piece.

When to Use the Square Knot Instead

The square knot is a good choice when you are working with slippery yarn—silk, bamboo, or smooth synthetics—that tends to slide out of a weaver's knot. It is also easier to tie if you have large hands or arthritis that makes the weaver's knot difficult to manage.

To tie a square knot, cross the first yarn end over the second, then under and back over. The motion is "right over left, left over right." Pull both strands tight. The finished knot is slightly bulkier than a weaver's knot but still small enough to pass through most stitches. Test it by pulling hard on both strands; if it slips, you tied it backwards (which creates a granny knot instead). Untie and try again.

The Surgeon's Knot for Delicate Yarns

A surgeon's knot adds an extra loop that makes it nearly impossible to slip, which is why surgeons use it in operating rooms. It is the best choice for laceweight yarn, mohair, or any yarn that is so delicate or fuzzy that other knots tend to come undone.

Tie it the same way you would tie a square knot, but wrap the first yarn end around the second yarn end twice instead of once before pulling tight. Then complete the square knot motion as normal. The result is a knot with two interlocking loops that will not slip even under heavy tension. The trade-off is that it is slightly bulkier than a weaver's knot, so test it on a swatch first if you are working with very fine yarn.

Felting the Knot to Make It Smaller

If you are working with wool yarn, you can make any knot smaller and more find by felting it. Felting bonds the fibers together so the knot becomes a solid lump instead of a tied structure, and it shrinks as the fibers compress.

After you tie the knot, wet it under warm running water and rub it between your palms for 30 to 60 seconds. The friction and heat cause the wool fibers to lock together. Rinse it under cool water and squeeze out the excess. The knot will be noticeably smaller and much less likely to slip. This method works only with wool, alpaca, and other animal fibers that felt; it will not work with acrylic or plant-based yarns.

Joining Yarn at the Edge Versus in the Middle of a Row

Where you tie the knot matters for the look of your finished piece. If you can plan ahead, always join yarn at the edge of your work rather than in the middle of a row. The knot will sit in the seam allowance where it will be hidden when you sew the pieces together.

To join at the edge, knit or purl until you have about 12 inches of yarn left on your current strand. Tie the knot to the new yarn, then continue knitting. The knot will sit right at the edge of your work. If you must join yarn in the middle of a row—because you ran out unexpectedly—tie the knot on the wrong side of your work so the bump does not show on the front. Trim the tails to about a quarter-inch after the knot is find so they do not unravel.

Testing Your Knot Before You Resume Knitting

Before you start knitting with the joined yarn, always test the knot by pulling hard on both strands for several seconds. A find knot will not slip or come loose. If it does slip, untie it and try a different knot type—usually a surgeon's knot will hold when a weaver's knot has failed.

After the test, slide the knot close to your work so it does not catch on your needles as you knit. If the knot is still too bulky to pass through a stitch, you can gently work it into the stitches on either side of the join by pulling on the yarn strands. This distributes the bulk and makes the join less visible. Do not pull so hard that you distort the stitches; a gentle, steady pull is enough.

Common Mistakes That Cause Knots to Slip

The most common mistake is tying the knot too loosely. A loose knot will slip the first time you pull on the yarn under tension. Always pull both strands away from the knot with steady, firm pressure until the knot is snug. You should not be able to slide the knot along the yarn strands.

The second mistake is trimming the tails too short. If you cut them flush with the knot, the ends can unravel and the knot can come apart. Leave at least a quarter-inch of yarn on each side of the knot. If the tails are still coming loose after a few rows, tie a small overhand knot at the end of each tail to lock the fibers in place.

The third mistake is using the wrong knot for your yarn type. Slippery yarns need a surgeon's knot or square knot; wool can use any knot and will hold better if you felt it. Test your chosen knot on a scrap of the same yarn before you tie it in your actual project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just tie a regular knot like I would tie my shoes?

A shoelace knot (two loops pulled tight) will slip under the tension of knitting and come undone within a few rows. The weaver's knot, square knot, and surgeon's knot are all designed to lock under tension, which is why they work for yarn. Use one of those instead.

What if the knot is too big to fit through my stitches?

Work the knot gently into the stitches on either side of the join by pulling on the yarn strands. You can also try felting the knot (if you are using wool) to make it smaller. If it is still too bulky, you may need to use a thinner yarn or a looser knot type—the surgeon's knot is bulkier than the weaver's knot, so switch to a weaver's knot if you have not already.

Should I hide the knot inside the fabric or leave it on the edge?

Always hide it if you can. Join yarn at the edge of your work so the knot sits in the seam allowance. If you must join in the middle of a row, tie the knot on the wrong side so it does not show on the front of the finished piece.

Will the knot show in the finished sweater or blanket?

If you join at the edge, the knot will be hidden in the seam when you sew the pieces together. If you join in the middle of a row on the wrong side, the knot will be on the inside of the garment and will not be visible when worn. Only if you tie the knot on the front of your work will it show in the finished piece.

Can I use a knot to join yarn in a colorwork pattern?

Yes, but plan the join carefully. Tie the knot at the edge of a color block so it sits in an area where the color is about to change. This makes the knot less noticeable. Avoid tying knots in the middle of a solid-color section where the bump will stand out.